ASCENT OF MOUNT COOK.

South Canterbury Times, Issue 2798, 13 March 1882, Page 2

ASCENT OF MOUNT COOK.

The Rev. Mr Green, a member of the English Alpine Club, accompanied by two Swiss guides, has succeeded in reaching the hitherto untrodden summit of the monarch of New Zealand mountains, and'the party returned to Timaru on Saturday evening. Wo have been courteously furnished by Mr Green with the leading particulars of the undertaking. Mr Green himself is a clergyman of the Church of England, and out of pure enthusiasm in mountaineering has undertaken this journey at his own expense. Hisgnides are Swiss,both men of more than ordinary skill and experience, and Mr Green informs us that without their assistance it would have been absolutely impossible for him to have made the ascent. From the foot of the well-known Tasman glacier began the real difficulties ■of the ascent, that point having been reached without any special difficulty. From this, however, the path lay through the densest vegetation, and over innumerable boulders. To pursue one’s own way unimpeded under such circumstances is difficult enough, but when to this is added the fact that the party carried on their backs tie camp equipage, some idea may be formed of the difficulty of the journey. The camp was by strenuous exertion carried to the junction of the Tasman Glacier with Mount Cook, and there finally pitched. More than one unsuccessful attempt was made to ascend from this point, hut_ at length the climbers got on the right track. It was considered, however,' that as more than one day would be required for the ascent the better plan would be logo up as far as practicable on the first day and camp, or rather bivouac, oh as safe a spot as they might be able 1 to find. The first day’s journey was mostly on rock, the second entirely on ice. The nearer they got to the peak the n ore the dangers of the journey increased. There were frequent and eno mens crevasses to be crossed, and there was ther continual danger of being overwhelmed by the avalanches that are continually bursting down the mountain. On the first night the party bivouacked at a height of 7000 feet from the level of the sea, and on the second day pursued their way up the ice. Mr Green informs us that the acclivity was at an average angle of 60 degrees. Our readers may imagine something of the difficulty encountered in making ones way up, even with the aid of experience and an ice-axe. , The chief guide led the way, and steadily carved a way for himself and his comrades—some 2000 steps being thus made. In fact to the pluck and perseverance of these men the success of the expedition may he said to be entirely due. At 6.20 on the second day the adventurous climbers found themselves standing on the summit of the great mountain. At a point 1000 feet below the top they had enjoyed a magnificent view of the sea and the low countries. [lt is here that the scenery is less imposing than that of Switzerland, in that from a Swiss peak one sees numberless, other peaks and valleys, nothing of which is to be seen from Mount Cook]. From that point upwards, however, the party were in theclouds. Having reached the top, the temperature was registered and found to he just above freezing point, there being a slight thaw. The party halted only a few minutes, and then began the descent, intending to get as far down as possible while the daylight lasted. Having descended some 2000 ft, they espied a narrow projecting ledge of rock 18 inches square. Beneath, there was a precipice of ice—a perpendicular descent of thousands of feet. Here, tied together, standing (or “ really dancing” as Mr Green describes it), beating their hands together, keeping each other awake through that long night, enduring cold wind and rain, unable to sit, the ledge being so narrow, stood the adventurers, until daybreak once more revealed the path. They had nothing to eat or, drink for 22 hours, (falling' back only on some meat lozenges), for it was impossible to carry provisions. During the night avalanches crossed and obliterated their tracks, and their own escape appears little short of miraculous. After a brief halt at the bivouac at the foot of the ice, the party proceeded down to their camp at once, and enjoyed a day’s rest before proceeding on their return to the habitations of men ; Burnett’s station being their first halting place. From this, the journey to Timaru was of course easily made. Wo should not omit to inform our readers that Mr Green had built a -tone cairn a few yards below the summit of the mountain, in which are deposited a tin match box and a pocket handkerchief. Will any fellow-citizen bring them down ?, Mr Green will on his return Home, read a paper before the Alpine Club, giving a full account of his trip, which will bo of deep interest to all New Zealanders. Mr Green has taken photographic views, sketches, botanical observations and such mental notes as an enthusiastic traveller would be sure to take. We should be glad if Mr Green could make it convenient to deliver a public lecture on mountaineering. Such a lecture would be intensely interesting and command a great gathering. The apparatus used by Mr Green and his party consisted only of ice-axes and rope, their camp, and an oiled calico tent; their utensils were stowed in a bucket and consisted of a compact fire apparatus and all vessels needed for an open air repast in the wilds. Our readers may mentally follow the voyagers on their perilous journey, and imagine for himself the huge gaping crevasses into whoso silent depths a single slip would instantly precipitate him ; the swift and resistless avalanche that has the speed of lightning and a power beyond computation ; the storm that has no check among these wilds; the ice surface, offering so uncertain a footing, and having thus mentally mastered the situation he will be constrained to agree with us in yielding all honour to the plucky individuals whose feet have been the first among these wild and majestic solitudes.