TABLE SHAMS.

South Canterbury Times, Issue 2536, 7 May 1881, Page 2

TABLE SHAMS.

“ Atlas,” in the ‘‘World,” says:— “The pleasantest and the most innocent shams are those of the kitchen. A hospitable lady, who is blest with one of the most expert cooks in Europe, assures me that day after day, in the country, when sea-fish was scarce, and only one kind was to be had, the infinite variety, week in, week out, was such as to make her blush or laugh whenever she looked at her menu. At last so gigantic became this continual imposture that she ventured upon the dangerous course of remonstrance. ‘I know,’ said she, ‘ that you cannot possibly have sent to table things which have never been in the market. I own that the deception is wonder-ful--quite perfect, indeed; but is it entirely fair to found feast after feast on false pretences ? ’ ‘ Madame,’ said the great man, ‘ there is no false pretence in art, which is purely a question of effects.’ It was, I believe, the same master of culinary imitation who confidently undertook to furnish a diner blanc, such as an alderman might give to an ambassador, with no other meat than wild rabbit. Being likewise an excellent confectioner, he tells you how to make greegage jam when there are no greengages. But that, of course, is both obvious and simple, so long as rhubarb is in season, and ratafia essence, or any kernal flavoring is ready to hand. The stewed plant must be rubbed through a hair sieve to free it from fibre ; and the peach bitters, or what not, will have to be added with discretion. Color, if you like, with a dash of spinach-extract or other harmless green.