Cotter tells Everest story

Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 9, Issue 438, 2 June 1992, Page 5

Cotter tells Everest story

BY

JO

HOWDE

Everest conqueror Guy Cotter is back home in Waiouru. His group of 14 made history by having the most people in one expedition to reach the summit in one day. Another record was broken that day, a total of 31 people reached the summit on 12 May, from other expeditions. Ideal weather conditions allowed climbers to continue to reach the summit on 10 and 14 May and Guy said to his knowledge, none have been successful since. "The pre-monsoon period is the best time to attempt the summit, although you can never predict the weather," said Guy. "Early May before the monsoon, a weather window occurs where there's a fine spell of very settled weather. This can happen for between four days and two weeks, or some years not at all. You can work your way up the mountain for an attempt, but if you go too early, its too cold and windy. The timing of our trip was perfect." The expedition was organised by Gary Ball and Rob Hall who, along with Guy, helped guide six clients and five climbing Sherpas to the summit. Included in this group of 14 were three Americans, the first representatives from Hong Kong and Israel and the first female climber from Belgium. Four members dropped out from the initial group for various reasons. Guy said he, Ball and Hall worked together as guides and took

it in turns to lead, establish the route, set up camps and help the clients. "It was very satisfying to complete the climb safely and successfully on the world's biggest mountain. It's a big logistics operation. Good organisation is very important. The way you manage the expedition does have a great effect on the outcome. Providing sufficient oxygen, plenty of Sherpa support and accurate timing of the summit attempt is critical," Guy said. Their base camp was set up at 5300m, with a doctor and base manager. The next phase was for everyone to become acclimatised. The group were taken to higher altitudes then back to Base Camp to rest. They climbed through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camp One as a day trip, then back to Base Camp. Dangerous "Objectively, this was the most dangerous part of the climb. The ice fall is an area of the glacier which is constantly moving, ice towers are continuously collapsing and the route through gets buried regularly." The next phases were relays back and forth to Camp Two, then Three, half way up Lhotse Face at 7300m. Before attempting the summit, the group went down the valley and stayed in a lodge, in a town called Pheriche. Resting, recovering and eating was the name of the game, waiting for the weather window to appear and preparing to climb to the summit.

"We had a feeling that the preparation had gone well. Spirits were high and everyone was in good health." Their first attempt wasn't successful because of snow. "We got to Camp Two, when the weather deteriorated. At this time two Indians had died after being benighted between Camp Three and Four. We became very aware of the consequences of making mistakes." After three days at Base Camp the group made their second attempt. They reached Camp Four, at the top of South-Col, 7900m. The group had acclimatised up to Camp Three because there is too much deterioration on the body above 7300m. Energy oxygen "At Camp Four we brewed up and got as much liquid into us as possible. At about 7500m we started using oxygen which made a huge difference and gave us a lot more energy. In high altitudes, simple operations become very difficult. All you want to do is sit down and do nothing, it feels like you have the flu, with headaches, a feeling of lassitude and weakness. Even putting a boot on takes a long time. The most difficult part of climbing Everest is the altitude and staying healthy." "After sleeping with oxygen at Camp Four, at 11pm the decision was made to attempt the summit. We left Camp Four at 1.30am and arrived at the summit, 8848m at 10.30am. At the top we took photos

and shook hands." "I found the most challenging guiding situation was climbing along the summit ridge. It was very exposed and working in such high altitude it was hard enough looking after myself, let alone a group. The 'Hillary Step' was quite technical this year as there wasn't a lot of snow. It being mainly rock, we had to belay our

clients up the step." The Hillary step is between South Summit and the Summit. After dismantling Everest base camp Guy left with the team of Sherpas, calling in on various villages, experiencing something of the Sherpa culture and the local beer known as 'Chung' or "Sherpa Oxygen".