HIGH COUNTRY GARDENER
by
Bea
Barnes
Most areas in New Zealand provide good conditions for growing bulbs and now is the time to think of planting. The ground should be prepared well and your bulbs will perform their best in a good well drained g arden soil with added humus. Well rotted composts and peat will help to condition the soil. Most bulbs enjoy an acid soil and a little general fertiliser should be added well before planting time. If the site is poorly drained the level of the soil will need to be raised by about 30cm to improve the drainage. All bulbs need adequate moisture during the period of growth and a dry period after the leaves have died down. No further fertiliser need be added at the time of planting as the newly emerging roots should not come into contact with fresh fertiliser. The term 'bulb' loosely applied includes true bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers. A true bulb has a flat base from which the roots eventually grow and a central bud protected by layers of fleshy growth in which the food supply is stored. It is broader towards the base and tapering to a central point from which the bud will eventually emerge.
Little bulblets will form at the sides of the parent bulb which will grow on and eventually break away from the parent to form new flowering bulbs although these may take up to four years to flower. True bulbs include hyacinth, narcissus and tulips and should all be planted with the broad base on to the soil and the point uppermost. A corm is the swollen base of a stem developing into a hardened mass which again stores the food supply. It has a circular base from which the roots form and the bud or buds sprouting towards the top. After flowering a new corm will form on top of the old one which will die away. Small pips form around the base of the corm which will eventually develop and create new corms. Typical corms are gladioli and crocus. These are planted the same way as a true bulb, base to the soil with the bud uppermost. A rhizome is an underground branch forming roots. Some, including bearded iris, grow partly on the surface of the soil. Roots form from the sides rather than from a central base. Tubers are swollen stems rounded in character producing the buds or
eyes which will eventually grow on to flower. Dahlias are tubers and when these are dug up and divided should carry an eye to each piece to be replanted. Spring flowering anemomes have been developed from tuberous species and these should be planted with the claw like formation down into the soil. Anemones will grow well in shade and while preparing the soil for planting a little lime should be added. Most of the spring bulbs can be planted now or any time up to about Easter but tulips should not be planted before mid April and not after May. Anemones plant in groups and cover with only 2.5cm of soil. Hyacinth plant 10-15cm deep and 15 cm apart. Narcissus (all daffodil varieties) 7.5 - 10cm deep and 15cm apart. Crocus plant 5cm deep and 7.5cm apart. Ixia 5cm deep and 5cm apart. Ranunculas plant 5cm deep and 5cm apart. Tulip plant 10 - 15cm deep and 15cm apart. Freesia are too tender to be planted in the open in this area unless you can provide a sunny, completely frost free situation but they will grow to perfection in pots.
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Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 9, Issue 430, 31 March 1992, Page 7
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595HIGH COUNTRY GARDENER Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 9, Issue 430, 31 March 1992, Page 7
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