ABOVE THE BELT

Rotorua Morning Post, Volume 1, Issue 181, 24 March 1932, Page 2

ABOVE THE BELT

CERTAIN DEFINITE LENGTHS FOR DEFINITE OCCASIONS. THIS SEASON COATS Just as i'n boxing, making a hit below the belt is "not done," neither is it done in fashion this autumn season. AI1 your telling "hits" will be made above the belt — but remember there must be a belt. The only thing that need concern you below the belt is that your silhotiette must take an outward cut frOm the hips down and the length must be right. And what is the right length of your coats ? So many interested readers of this page have written asking what is the length of coats this year ? And this question involves so many other questions, such as "what kind of coat do you mean;topcoat, costume coat, walking coat, sports coat, jacket coat, bolero coat, evening coat? Well, I have little information about them all, and we'll have it first before we talk about sleeves and furs and belts. It is firstly essential to remember one fact. The length of your coat is going to depend to a great extent upon your build and height. But for gene)L*al use we can tell you — Topcoats are a little longer than last year, and will come to just below the calf — a length only fashionable when it is accompanied by a broadly accentuated shoulder line — the correct silhouette and a nipped-in waistline.

For the walking suit, which lsn't exactly a tailor-made, the length may be six inches above the hem of the skirt — skirt length to be determined by height. As for the tailor-made. For every inch of length you put on to your skirt, you take two inches off the length of your coat. Cut and Length of Bolero. The bolero will be "the thing" in every conceivable material, style, and cut. It is essential for the bolero suit to see that your skirt is gored and well fitted to a high waistline. In fact, the new line is well up under the bust, but must be well fitted to be effective. To bring the natural waistline down again and retain the Second Empire effect, it is permissible and very smart to girdle the waist with a scarf or sash. Next in importance to the Inigth. of your coat is its snoulde" i-n? and sleeves. Of no use to have the correct length if you have the incorrect width. Shoulders are at least an inch wider on each side than they were last year. This effect involves all kinds of military doings with the fronts above the waistline. The guardsman cut, with its smart row of buttons from right out on the shoulder diagonally down to the waist is one way of achieving the desired effect. The double row of buttons, using only four on either side grading in from the shoulder to the waist, is another. The widened revers is yet another line which helps towards that "nipped-in" effect at the waist, which is really only a elever way of reducing your actual girth. Button and Stay Put. Just a few important points to re- 1 member about your topcoat, whether it's fur, fur fabric or material. Coats button and stay put this year; they don't have to be clutched into the corrfict fitting. This eliminates that slouching carriage, so fashionable a year or two ago. Carriage must be erect and even at the expense of having to carry a pitcher or balance a hook on the head for practice, this must be observed, or the effect of your coat is ruined. There must be no flowing "fixings" needing perpetual adjustment. Scarves that blow in the breeze are "out." The cravat, tying neatly and remaining where it was ' put in front of the mirror, takes their place. Hats and hair must be neat and trim, and "fixed" before ever you leave the mirror. It is hopeless to try after.