Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 185, 23 June 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

A SIMPLE TAILOR-MADE. It is good news that among tailormades there is a distinct feeling for simplicity and comfort. It has evidently been borne in mind that they are for strict utility and must be of the practical kind this year—really work-.i-day suits that will stand hard ■wear. A prot'y and neat coat and skirt of pewter-grey whipcord has box-pleats strapped on tho hips ana left loose below, nnd side pockets are added. The coat is a short, comfortable affair, an essential note of individuality beaig impacted by a wide patent leather bolt, spanning only trie front of the waist, rather below the normal level, and patent leather buttons with pcwter-colonred rims. The collar is sufficiently high to be very smart, and has an undeniable suggestion of military cut. Reference to the military effect, in dress recalls the fact that black silk braid, put on military fashion, adorns the fronts of many a smart costumeco.'it and of long coats also. Some of the smartest tailor-mades are designed with short, loose-fitting coats braided across the front in doublewidth lines, each double piece of braid having loose, mitred end-, that fall back in their own military fashion. Other co.ats. buttoned high to the throat, are of the bolero kind and fit rather closely across the chest, but stand out from the waist in front. They are handsomely braided in military fashion, and some of them are provided with straight, military col-lar-bands. Such are attached also to coats cut low in the neck. One of the now fashions in tailormades is illustrated, and is just such a suit as the .average girl would find becoming and useful. A touch of the military is introduced In the th^'CG

twisted braid ornaments that trim the front of the coat.

For the development of the stilt, nothing, probably, would lie so useful as navy serge; but brown cloth would also work out well for the same.

The skirt Is arranged wltn Inven ed pleats back and front, and is otherwise qnllc plain. The short coat is charmingly pretty and new, with its eut-a>vay front and high collar. A TYPICAL WIXTER HAT. The hat illustrated with the costume Is a typical winter style, and Is of black velvet, trimmed with a big pom-pom and band of coloured ribbon. With its high croun and plain, straight brim, this is a most becoming hat. The shape Is also copied In felt and beaver, and looks very well in mulberry-coloured beaver, trimmed with purple velvet-ribbon. WASHING A HAIR-BRUSH. To wash a hair-brush, dip the bristles in strong soda-water, which should not be allowed to touch the back or handle of the brush if of wood. Shake the bristles about in the bath, dip them in and out. and clean them further by rubbing on them some soap, working it with the right hand, and then combing the soap in and out of the brush. This will clean the hair-comb at the same lime. Rinse and shake the brush and stand it in the air to dry. WORKING OVERALLS FOR HOUSEWIVES. Women are doing so much of tlieh own housework nowadays, and dispensing mere or less with paid service that a household overall Is as much a. necessity as the morning frock itscir. lam n and sateen are the U-M materials of which to make it. and as regards "how"' to make It. there are many ways offered. The Magyar overall 1s always popular, because it is so simple to make, but the raglaii Is a newer style and the ch.aracterlsllc sleeve is exceptionally well suited to the purpose of an overall coat, whether for Indoors or our-of-doorv because it "gives'' with the movements of the arms and allows plenty of stretch.

As Miicx-lving is coming rapidly into fashion agal«, it is. of course, leaking an appearance on overalls, and the smock of sort holhnfl or linen is a picturesque and serviceable addition to a woman's ereryda* wardrobe. Tt is smocked neross tlm chest or on the shoulders and again at the wrists, if the sleevc9 are long. Not a few smocks and other overalls,

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however, are made with half-length .Magyar sleeves, and some, are ciit v.ilh mere shoulder-caps or little more. Willi "these, it may be advisable to wear a paijr of linen sleeves, reaching from wrist to elbow, run v,";'ii elr.f!ics at Ihe top and fitted to buttoned cuffs at the wrists. With regs-i to plaiu magyar overalls, it sometimes happens that while the back is sufficiently wide, the front in ioo narrow across the. chest. When this fault occurs, a remedy is found in splitting up the front of the overall and inserting a strip of self-ma-terial 10 tlie required width, leaving a placket at the left and fastening the overall with press-studs from the top of the placket to the neck. The housewife's overall-coat illustrated i- an exev'lent pattern and

works out well m line linen. The diagram show,< the six piece* of the paper pattern, namely one front, half the hack, one sleeve with yoke piece, one cuff, the pocket and the belt, laid on -1! yards of 4S-in. material folded lengthwise. The- hack must be placed to ihe fold in ord.'r to avoid a team. The other pattern pieces, save the pocket, should he cut out in duplicate. The duplicate belt piece will he needed for a lining. Each front, when cut out, must be tucked on the shoulders and the hack must also lie nicked. Fronts and back niu-i then he tacked together and fitted to the raglnn yoke, which must 1.0 -eeured up tile hark and the wrists of tne sleeves must he gathered to the cuff-, which latter should each ho provided with a button and buttonhole. Hem or face the fronts of the overall on the inside, make buttonholes on the right front, and sew buttons to tin left, and provide tin' belt also with a button and buttonhole. Hem the top of the pocket, turn in tiie remain: lg raw edge, and stitch the pocket to the light hip of the overall.

The neck mu-t be made neat with a bias faring of material, ami the tucks on the bodice should he pitched (o wiihin an inch or two of the waist or to the actual want-level. To make the union of yoke and overall quite neat, a tap.' facing should he machined over the seam on the wrong sid \ A dainty lin'sh i-. given to the oveiall by a Krench-knot trimming. THE SHY GIRL. When a girl i ; growing up very sli - .- ly and self-conscious, and never seems to have anvthing particular to say, but is rather afraid of hearing her own voice in public, it is the mother's duty to exert herself on behalf of her daughter and help the girl to become self-reliant and able to take her own part in society, and to shake off the nervousness that possibly oppresses her. The girl should be encouraged to take part in general conversation at every possible opportunity and to feel that her thoughts and opinions about different matters ."ire of some interest and importance She should not be allowed to sink into a state of mind that is content to let other people take the burden of conversation while she herself sits by in apparent stupid silenre. It Is a'habit thaUwill grow upon her unless checked, and will prevent her becoming either gracious or attractive. Possibly she yearns to be able to be more talkative, >et lacks die ability to share in ordinary intellectual conversations because she has not studied deeply and feels keenly her own Ignorance. She should improve her education by reading useful books, and then she will feed more confidence in herself and develop conversational powers. If her mother or anyone else will help her to grow out of herself, she will probably bo very grateful. It is a. mother's duly to watch hei children closely and sec in what \va*, she can help them most satisfactorily. The shy ones will need extra special attention, and the exercise of a great deal of tact in their upbringing, for they must be brought out in such a way as not to let them think for a, moment that they are attracting attention. Over-shyness and nervousness arcgreat drawbacks to a successful career, and the possession of either quality suggests lack of confidence in oneself-and this, of course, is not calculated to inspire confidence from others. There is a wide margin between self-confidence of a judicious kind and conceit. The one is a quality to be cultivated and merited: the other is always objectionable.