Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 22, 19 March 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

Copyright.

EARLY AUTUMN FASHIONS. It is an object with most women just now to dress as economically as possible, and many who are handy with their needles arc planning their autumn outfits with a view to making a number of the necessary garments themselves. There is every reason to congratulate fashion on the coming into vogue of the new long tunic, which is cut on very graceful lines and gives length to the figure. Occasionally the ti'uic, pleated from the waist, tind> no repetition of its own material elsewhere in the dress, while again, tunic and bodice may correspond, the latter having collar and cuffs to match the skirt piece. Where itie tunic is of ''isolated" material, a happy idea is to finish it at the waist with a diapery of its own fabric. A long, pleated tunic is the chief feature of the charming dress illustrated, which might be copied in one mate! ial throughout or in mixed materials. Plaid being very fashionable, tin 1 hem to the underskirt, the waistband,

collar and cuffs, might be of plaid woollen in dark blue and green colours, the bodice and pleated tunic being of navy-blue serge-suiting. The bodice opens over a linen vest. The underskirt should be of dark blue lining, with a deep hem of plaid materOne of the new hats of velvet —dark blue or black —with handsome brush ornament is also sketched. Hats are decidedly larger, and the velvet hat will again carry all before it and is beautiful in its simplicity, calling for very little in the way of trimming. A large velvet flower with flat. outspread petals, in the style of a monster pansy, is one of the newest decorations for the velvet hat, and takes its stand in the immediate centre-front.

WOMEN'S WORK FOR SOLDIERS

AND SAILORS

Nimble fingers are busy at work everywhere for our wounded heroes of the war, and women's local work parties are turning out numbers of knitted socks and cardigans and hand-made shirts and other garments for thosp who have fought at the front, while girls in their own homes have put aside their usual fancy work to devote themselves to a similar cause.

A working church party is cutting a number of shirts from a very simple Magyar pattern that is said to answer admirably. The s.'n'rts are quickly and easily made, and as other workers may care to copy the pattern the shirt is here illustrated, together with a pair of p;, jamas, such as work parties are also making for soldiers and sailors. It will be found more economical to make the shirts from 36-inch material

rather than from a wider width. The diagram shows the pattern of the shirt opened out and laid upon the material, the shirt, it will he seen, being cut all in one piece save for the sleeves, which are cut separately. The sleeve pattern should he laid upon douhle material so tliiit ii is cut out in duplicate. Little hints to he borne in mind are: --.Make the shirt large in size, and especially cut the shoulders or tops of the sleeves large, so that the armholes are quite loose-fitting and easy to the wer.rer. Leave the shirt seams oj>en for several inches at the end. Kace the fronts of shirt, as there will not he sufficient material when the fronts are split tin t=> allow for more than the merest turning. Cut the neck opening f f raicht across

the back. Xo collar-band is needed. Simply turn in the raw edge of material and faec it on the inside with a crossway band of flannel or calico, the 'union of the skirt and facing coming right at the top of neckpiece. The siiirr, it will be observed (see diagram), is not fjnite straight along the sides, but is slightly shaped, and this shaping renders the armholes comfortable. The fronts are provided with five large buttons of material and cor-n-ponding buttonholes, the sleeves are tinned up and faced at the ends, or are hemmed, and the bottom of the skirt is finished in a similar way. It is reckoned that 15 yards" of 36inch material will make four shirts. The single notrh on a level with the shoulder in diagram corresponds with a similni notch at the top of sleeve. The latter is cut in one piece. If material that stretches very much is used for the shirt, the disposition i.f I lie sleeve pattern should be slightly different to the pose in sketch. The sleeve should then be laid on the materia! lengthwise.