NOTES OF A VISIT TO TOLOGA BAY.

Poverty Bay Standard, Volume III, Issue 331, 8 December 1875, Page 2

NOTES OF A VISIT TO TOLOGA BAY.

(by a correspondent) Taking advantage of the trial trip of the steamer Rosina, which, as you are aware, has recently been placedin thetrade by her spirited owner Mr W. Ad>:ir, toopenamore regular communication than has hitherto obtained between the settlements lying north of Gisborne to Hicks’ Bay, I am able to place at your disposal a few notes which probably may be of interest to some of your readers. After leaving port we had a dead S.E. muzzier until we rounded Wainui, during which a heavy beam sea afforded both steamer and voyagers an excellent opportunity of testing their capabilities to withstand its effects. I must, in fairness, give the palm to the Rosina. She behaved well, although many of her movements —for which she could hardly be held responsible—soon brought those on board, except the ship’s company, to a horizontal position, and, after a little lively conversation interspersed with anecdotes, from one who would not succumb either to the qualms of conscience, or a disordered stomach, silence reigned supreme (a most significant indication that all was not right below) and it was broken only by certain trajectory, regurgitating sounds, in unpleasant proximity, which proved to be nothing more than the frantic endeavour of a distressed passenger, to hastily discharge the obligations he owed to his breakfast. Sea sickness, however, was very soon over, and as soon forgotten. A little canvas put matters and the steamer right at the same time, and with a flowing sheet and smooth sea we could afford to .sympa-

thise with the “Doctor, ’’ whose galley came unshipped, while the harness cask, buckets, kettles, and other culinary utensils were scattered about the deck in such an unhappy confusion, as to cause that worthy professional to ejaculate certain adjectives which I am sure cannot be found in any other book than a dictionary, and some of them not even there.

After a very pleasant voyage of 5| hours from anchor to anchor, we arrived at Tologa Bay at 2 o’clock on Sunday afternoon the 28th November. Here we found the cutter Whau, windbound, waiting for a favorable wind to put to sea. She had been at anchor outside the river for some days, and had a couple of fond hearts on board, who were making their way. to Gisborne to get married. Of course it was expected that the run up would have been made in a few hours, when the infelicities of the unmarried state would be speedily put an end to; but alas for the errors and disappointments of human calculations ! They not only had to endure the tortures of suspense, and vexatious delay, but, owing to a limited accommo : dation, they had to make themselves as comfortable as circumstances would permit under heaven’s canopy and a rug which they shared between them on deck ; let us hope that the marital knot has compensated, long ere this, for the miseries of those few days. The schooner Opotik'i was lying in the river waiting for a cargo of wool for Auckland. The Eosina entered the Tologa Bay river, and ran up opposite Mr. Mullooly’s store, the usual landing place, Captain Trimmer acting as pilot. There is plenty of water inside, and generally on the bar, although the mouth of the river keeps shifting very much, which causes great inconvenience. On entering Tologa Bay, strangers, and visitors who have been absent for some time, are at once struck with the small amount of improvement which has been effected in this settlement. Since the writer’s visit twelvemonthsago, the only signs of progress are Mr. H. Trimmer’s store; a small private house; a new store added to Mr. J. Trimmer’s Hotel; and Mr. Mullooly’s new hotel and store, which stand upon the site of the old ones, burnt down some few months since. These latter are certainly a great improvement on the old buildings, which, however well they may have answered the requirements of the place, in still more primitive times, were being far out-distanced in the march of events along the East Coast. Like its neighbor, the “ Pahura,” the “ Sea View ” Hotel commands a fine view of the country inland; and internally, it affords such ample accommodation for travellers, as is not always to be had, although not unreasonably expected. It contains 14 rooms, one of them being a spacious commercial room upstairs, leading on to a balcony, a cool, pleasant, retreat in hot weather; and in this respect it has an advantage over its friend “ Pahura,” although the latter has a balcony, minus the commercial apartment attached to it. Like most of its sister settlements, Tologa Bay depends chiefly . on Native trade, although increased population, and facilities for inter-com-munication, have largely augmented business transactions with Europeans. Commercial men are now extending their overland visits as far as the East Cape. These gentlemen represent houses North and South, although by far the largest trade is done with Auckland. From the fact that new stores are opening in all directions, and that many thousand pounds’ worth of goods find their way up the coast annually, the trade is evidently worth the looking after. Mr. W. Adair of Gisborne, I am glad to say, found a ready made trade to his hand. He disposed of a large quantity of goods, from the Eosina ; he received large orders in return, and had every encouragement to do an extensive business. I wish him success, and sincerely trust that the Government will subsidise his little boat, which will be a great boon to the East Coast settlements. Mr. H. Trimmer,— brother of mine host of the Pahura—has a bakery attached to his store and seems to be doing a thriving trade. “ Civilization,” however, —as is understood by the demand for baker’s bread, fresh meat, clean towels, and lemonade, —is not an article that is made over welcome by some of the inland caterers for the necessities of travellers. During the present journey one of the true type of an independent devil-my-care Boniface, said to the writer : —“ To h— with civilisation and lemonade 1 They don’t pay. If a man comes here and wants beer, and I have none, he’ll drink rum, or gin, or brandy ; he is sure to drink something." There is, doubtless, a good deal of hard truth in this, although spicily expressed to cause a laugh at the expense of Mr. Civilisation. Boniface is not a bad fellow by any means, only given to a few eccentricities at times, when he threatens to shoot all the Taurekarekas that offend him ; and I have always found him very desirous of making every one comfortable after bis own style. It strikes one as a very peculiar circumstance, that, surrounded as they are on all sides—except the sea—by sheep and cattle, fresh meat is not by any means always obtainable in the hotels. Dessicated milk, diluted with hot water, is the only representative (and a very good one) of the genuine article, which ought to be plentiful in Tologa Bay. Vegetables, potatoes, perhaps, excepted, are also scarce, in fact I did not see a cabbage, much less any other green food, during my stay. Much of this mag be due to the anti-civilisation element (although 1 do not think it is) and to the sandy nature of the soil in the lower part of the township where the hotels stand; but whatever the cause, it is a great want which is much felt, and should be supplied at once, especially as there is plenty of good garden land in the township, but of this I shall say something by and bye. I found here that the beers of our friend Crawford’s brewery, both draught and bottled, find excellent favor amongst the coast settlers. The hotels keep it constantly on hand, and in as good condition as can be had in Gisborne. With regard to less intoxicating drinks, I had ample opportunity to advocate the cause of Civilisation. In more than one instance I urged the desirability of these hostelries being as well supplied with lemonade and soda water as they are with stronger stuff, not that I dislike, in moderation, the “cup that cheers,” but that one, not absolutely zinc lined, and copper fastened, cannot always be quenching his thirst with the “"best brands ” from abroad, however good and enticing, nor with the celebrated New Zealand distilled, atwhatever number of paces it may be warranted not to kill. I hope, however, that with

more regular and constant communication by sea and laud, civilisation will gain the. day, which I verily believe if is desired that it should so soon as the way can be seen more clearly ahead. To be Continued.