SWEET PEA CULTURE

Otago Witness, Issue 4029, 2 June 1931, Page 11

SWEET PEA CULTURE

SEED SOWING v. TRANSPLANTING. Enthusiasts who are experienced in the art of sowing sweet peas for exhibition need no convincing that it is wiser to transplant sturdy, well-hardened plants from autumn-sown seeds than to depend upon spring sowing in the open ground. Generally speaking, the great host of garden-owners who grow sweet peas simply for home use content themselves with sowing seeds at this time of year, and allowing the plants to come along at will. For the most part, such seeds are sown too thickly to enable individual plants to develop as well as they might. Undue crowding checks growth, and, although such check will induce the plants to form a few flower buds sooner than a vigorously growing plant will do, those few flowers will be small, thin, and short-stalked, and the period of flowering will be short. Even under best conditions, hwere September or October sown seeds are given ample room in well-nourished soil, the plants will be considerably later in commencing to bloom than those from autumn-sown seeds. It would be small comfort to tell those who have no accommodation for sowing sweet peas in autumn and keeping the young plants safely through winter that they must always be content with half a crop of flowers. Fortunately, a few commercial growers come to the aid of such amateurs by offering autumn-sown seedlings at the time for planting out. It cannot be too strongly urged that at least half of one’s sweet peas for cutting or for garden display should be grown from transplanted, autumnsown plants. It is quite a good plan to supplement the transplanted batch with a spring sowing, as the latter will be in their prime just as the former begin to wane.

Soil preparation has been dealt with so often that one hesitates to reiterate the necessity for deep digging and liberal manuring. A deep, narrow trench, cut through a plot of hard, uncultivated ground, does not give sweet peas a proper chance. The trench of loose soil acts as a drain for the surrounding ground, collecting the water, and holding it to the point of stagnation. Such are the conditions that foster development of streak disease, mildew, and bud dropping. The surrounding soil, as well as the trench itself, should be deeply cultivated, but the manure need only be buried under the line of plants. Sweet pea roots run straight down, so long as there is easy going, and a supply of food deeply buried will act as a magnet to <traw them down, away from the scorching heat of summer’s sun.

Although the term “ easy going ” is used, this must not be interpreted to mean that the roots will appreciate a loose, spongy medium in which to grow. No plants require a firmer root run, but it is somewhat difficult to convince the novice that there is a material difference between hard, compressed, uncultivated soil, and deeply-trenched ground that is allowed to regain a condition of firmness. The natural consolidation of time is best, and for that reason it is of great advantage if the trenches for sweet peas can be prepared in autumn or winter, and allowed to settle down before planting, but when, of necessity, the preparation must be done just prior to planting, it is essential that the soil shall be firmed by trea'ding. Always, however, eradicate footmarks to prevent the formation of a hard, caked surface. There are two things to avoid when handling sweet pea plants, one is breaking the fine ends of the roots, and the other is twilling or cracking the neck or stem of the plant just above the juncture with the roots. Holes must be made of sufficient depth to take the whole of the roots without doubling up; at the same time they must be broad enough to enable the roots to hang apart, not cramping them together like the closed fingers of the hand. This means a trowel should be used in preference to a dibber. When the soil is placed around the roots, pressure must be brought to bear firmly to fix the plant in the soil. If the ground is tolerably moist watering will be unnecessary, but in the case of very light, sandy soils it may be necessary to give a good soaking immediately after planting.

It is strange how, sometimes a little matter of apparently trifling importance may be capable of spelling the difference between success and failure. In the cultivation of sweet peas, it is a very common occurrence for young plants to be left lying upon the ground until they attain sufficient length to reach and attach themselves to the sticks placed in readiness for their support. In the meantime, the loose haulm bends over at the neck, and, when gusty winds are blowing, the plants are thrown to and fro until the green stem covering at the point at the bend is cracked. In the healing of that crack hardened tissues will be found, and thereafter the flow of sap from the roots to the haulm above will be impeded. Although, therefore, it may appear to be a mere trifling matter, the neglect to provide short, slender twigs to uphold the young plants when only two or three inches high may quite easily be the direct cause of stunted, indifferent growth from the start, and an indifferent crop of flowers throughout the summer.

By transplanting healthy young stock after the manner here described, a good supply of flowers may be produced.— A. J. Al., in Amateur Gardening.