FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2892, 11 August 1909, Page 74

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

' (Fbom Ottb Own Cobbespondeotj.) 1 — Summer Demand- for Dark Blue. — Paris is reported to have fallen wholeheartedly in love with "gros- bleu," or dark blue— a dye that ia usually associated in English minds with serge and alpaca for summer eeaeide wear. It is> in Paris itself that the pedestrian, the visitor, the race-goer--in short, the public in general— is to be seen wearing dark blue. When the greater portion of the dress or coat and ekirt is made of tussore, foulardv perj?e, alpaca, or muslin in the gros bleu shade, a relief may be afforded by the accompanying sunshade of cream or pale green, the biscuit-tinted gloves, or the chemisette of fk*>h-coloured tulle. Black tulle, now co fashionable, looks decidedly too sombre f vuth a rlark blue drese. White flowers jvull be used to lighten the dark blue hat I which accompanies the dark costume. A i.ovelty is the substitution of a black la<e o>- net yoke for the becoming ono of fle.-h-colour or cream or whito- The pinky tone is considered to be too much like the real flosh, ami to sugg<vt tho idea that the wearer k in evening attire in trv° daytime. The fle&h-tinted chemisette or •;uiiTi!>e was very prominent at A<»cot Som° people consider that the black guimpe- is more becoming, especially for women with blight, cWr complexions Moreover, it , pio\:de<- >ofc one more tcheme for the intioclucnon of black into the up-to-date dres-. 7t i* linpp.-ativc that ci littlo black shall fhi'l a position eotn-cuhp-re in some form. OnK th'j fi'i-?sl black tulle or nut is, chos-n f<,-*t ! .c th 'im— ttc, and this i<3 usually t si- k J It is at time? r<-lie\c-d with I'lad iet l<a-U tlott, <1 here and tlicr--* to 1 !; i to hii-^l.ftn up the =oni!-re effect of tho blalk as added to a drf"'? of colour. — Il.iinbov Effects-. — Tt is 2-t<"<ii!'-'ii; | _c to <ii&co^<'r r.bat f-o f fc K'.ii'bow tift cli (<in Lc pr<"di.c d l.y tlio pk jt.ting of pal«-h:id:-. of tuil' o.^r a_'atin fi 1:11 '„. -.■: In many in-taii'.r^ th« iiit^r1 :i!i!',' of .'liiniiiiiiun n^t foin - rait <'i thf j 'I)'---, tl.f jhnni^.r of l'cr'it I'lioi'.-h the f- r -ft '.iS.on, mam^, or Ijl •j ■ biin o •>" a M'*'v d'tui'.ir.o i'l'Mi'ili i : 1 1 o l! ' (1. in., v. ulr» t:io cxy.-Uil cr^J iii', c* ein'ij. <..'.'.. -I-..:

y T-whioh the metal net is encircled when seen [1 i through this eoft haze of colour give it a a I mystery and allure which could hardly be ' I improved upon, and certainly not described 1 , j There is thus quite an indefiniteness about , many of the up-to-date- dresses made of ? I layer upon layer of "tulle, an 3 apricot, • which is pink in somet lighte • and yellow c in others, or a blue, which puzzles one by s changing to green with chameleon-like sud0 denness, are two of the favourite effeefs of d the moment 3 —Foulard Tereus Shantung. — r The sudden desire for foula-rd seems S3 V if it would sweep everything else cub b£ tli3 way so far as afternoon frocks are con-* v cerned. But Shantung has gained too ', strong a hold on the affections to be oueted .- all in a moment. Al the- present Shama tung is the only material which can ape proech foulard for popularity. |j i The present-day fou'ard is usually of tha ' satir variety, and it 6hows an infinite g ' variety of shades, as different as possible from the one idea of navy blue patterned. with -white, which was almost the only 6 variety heard of a few years since. Checks; r are a charactoristio of somo of the season's B foulards, and stripes, wido and "narrow, o£ J- others, white their© are spote and lozengee 1 . , innumerable, and reference lias been made ,_J~to the _Paisley . printed foulard carried out 1 in Oriental colourings. ' - - Foulard-patterned crepe- de. chine is & n«»w variety, and in Paris ie is well spokew of. One' race dress was in pastel blue • crepe with small white spot, trimmed with strips of ite own material, on which th« spots assumed the dimensions of a fives shilling piece. The jupe was pleated from* 3 a little below the hips, the pleated surface , beinff broken at intervals by narrow panels l powdered with huge spot", while the tablie? t in front made a mitred point at the top, f under which the enc*6 of the fichu disapj pcared. There aTO lovely fichus, too, made , of painted muslin to match the border of j the gowns. |. I — Return of the Fichu. — } ! As regards garden-party frocks the pretty 4 Romney and ' Reynolds effects are sought ' j with considerable enthusiasm, and some of ■ the moet dainty dresses are finished off with 1 a little fichu arrangement, which disappears [• under the hig.h ekirt. The thinnest of I materials only a.re used >>r this light shouli der drapery, which is at times cut in • ■ Japanese style, with a short, loose sleeve » made in one piece. A new accessory i« . the Marie Antoinette flcnu, draped incon- , gruously over Direotoire and Grecian dreesee. This fichu should not be frilled 1 , but drawn closely round the shoulders, the upper edge drawn very tight to avoid slipping. The ends, in its last revival, were 5 worn hanging in front, but this year ther« t ere no ends, but simply a fastening by an , antique buckle m front In somo painted! j chiffons this fiohu ; a delightful, and as a j, | meane of using up the remains of Chinese > r embroidered shawfe it ia very successful. — Silk Coats.— t A well-known authority has something to I say about the present-day silk, coat, thus:, "A very convenient fashion of the season ' 13 the jacket of soft silk, tussore, or satin, 1 that can be worn with any gown, and ia • donned in a moment. The now ottoman silk » is not greatly in 'avour for these, but a. i ribbed tussore is much U6ed- for them. Some of these little coats recall the- fashions of an [ olden time. Some of these coats are covered! ( with embroidered flowers or -applied dej signs. They nearly all have short sleeves. r Worn over whit© muslin f rocky, and made in chiffon painted with flowers, • thsy ara most picturesque, especially when edgecr 1 . with a small ruche in the colour of I the painted flowers, and possibly lined with • thin silk in the same hue." > Th>a race coat of this year is adapted! : chiefly for showing the dress beneath. It ia • made in panels, either hanging loose or held . together by transparent lace, it does not fasten — it does not even mcct — in front, an<l I in some instances it is cut away very widely, round the armhol-es so that the side of fcha bodioo is visible beneath. Of dyed Shan, tung, it is generally embroidered in brai<f ' or effective rolls o£ satin combined with j coarse lace-work, and this again is transI parent. In fact, the race coat of the year, I "is a part of the dress, and a dust cloak is added to it. It used to be considered smart to have the coat of satin and the skirt of cloth, but it is now quite the smart to reverse thie arrangement. I/ittle satin coats, however, are still in favour, and when well cut, even if severe in outline, they are bei coming. ~ — Something About I*inen and Muslin. — Linens were never more in demand, and" o&rtainly never were so varied in weave arid colour. In no other fabric have the dyers achieved greater triumphs than in this direction. Certain wood tones, medium ©hadea of grey and brown, with a dash of greetr, are considered especially smart, and the ash. greys are akin to them. All. the wisteriasj and fruity lavenders and purples, the varied tones of rose, the blues, the coppery browns', the almond 1 and pistachie and absinthe greens— in fact, all the season's new colours are displayed in the linens. The white anrt string-tinted Mnens are asked for a good deal, and come elaborate coats are made to wear with white linen frocks, though they maybe worn over any washing dress; these coats are made of net, trimmed with soutache and linen bands or motifs, and some! of them aro exceedinplv intricate in design. Linen frocks with bolero-shaped coats have the latter simply outlined with white braid; 1 another variety lakes the form of a per-, fectly plain and closc-fiLting Princess robe trimmed only with two lonpr rows of linen.coverccl buttons, which run from throat to feet in front, and outline the sleeves on the outer arm. The plain pinafore dresses &r» useful made to button on the shoulders, and! in thi^> way they can very easily and quickly Xt slipped on over almost any kind of whit? washing blouse. \ n Interesting Announcement.-— i This weok Quofri Alexandra^ has set <£ pruHv fashion. Instead of wearing the conventional coat or scarf, hanßinpr in straisnft lines °b& wore a very ?.ide pcarf arransredf round her shoulders, Riving the. # oldfa'hionod dolman effect. The style 13 an. artistic and graceful one, and thc-re is every, hkelibood that it will bo genera |y adopted-. The Queen's scarf wa=> made of lilac ohitfon. with a d<^p hem-stitched border, but ai vaiicty of pretty designs beside this can Iws adopted. .

Tii" quick results o£ Chamberlain's Tablets in the euro of Biliousness; and piompr relief of all its bad symptoms, is something unequalled by any other mcdi* tine. They cleansa the stomach, clear. out all -jeiiflv <.f : mu!ato the liver, drive -- . ■ of pain, distress, and .j. .- c\ery_where.