BOWLING.

Otaki Mail, 11 December 1922, Page 3

BOWLING.

ADVICE FOR YOUNG AND OLD PLAYERS. Just now, at the beginning of a new season, seems an appropriate time to print a few words of advice by au old player. The writer evidently knows his subject, and his remarks may be read with interest by young players, while even those who have been at the game for years may gather a few hints. There may be (almost certainly there will be) differences of opinion, but ou general principles most bowlers will admit that the advice given is sound. A "Young Player" had asked the question: "If a lead has got on the jack with his first bowl, where should his second shot be played.'" The reply was as follows: This question is evidently put in all sincerity, but to answer our young friend means a review of practically the whole of the game of riuk play. The lead should endeavour to play his second shot just where his skip asks him to play it, and that will depend to a great extent on the play of the other lead. The skip is the autocrat, and all young players should bear in mind this fact, lie is asking them to play every bowl with a definite object ; ho is looking ahead, and seeing visions of 4,5, or maybe even 7 or S shots, "if he can get his position"; he is watching every bowl from the other side, and knows just where he wants every bowl from his own men. In a word, he is playing for 'position,' or building his head, and many bowlers think, because they are not mind readers, and cannot sec what the skip is scheming for, that he is not playing the game, and is asking them for ridiculous shots. His "tactics" arc too far advanced for them. Just so, and present-' ly one or two loose ones come along, and his position is gone. The skip is disappointed—bitterly so—but he must not show it, and with cheery "Well tried." "Just n little strong," or some such remark, he goes on with his game, and he alone knows what might have been. However, that is by the way. Long years of experience have convinced the writer that if the leader has gut in to the jack with his first bowl you should ask him to draw his second bowl (if the other leader has not- got jack high) "behind the shot bowl in the direction the jack will take if it is disturbed." If the opponent has got behind the jack, the lead should then endeavour to face or pair the bowl with his second. I have no hesitation in advising young players to ,get this advice stored somewhere in the region of their hatbands, for it is "the goods." Your second player should be asked to rest (with a draw) or face any bowls the other fellows may have played behind the jack. If they are still short, then your second should draw second and third shots "behind" the jack. If the other fellow gets the jack with his first, then your leader must try to draw up to I it, so that he gets second shot if he fails to get the jack. The next bowl, about a foot behind the jack, will give your third and skip an opportunity to play to the toucher and spring the white to you. Everything, however, depends on the run of the play and the objective which the skip has in view. Leads and seconds should, however, remember they should always be up to the jack, never short. The third and skip are badly handicapped by "short stuff," q,nd it is the unpardonable sin ia the eyes of the skip, who would sooner see the bowls well behind. Some skips go so far as to say they would sooner see the bowls in the ditch than in front., I am not prepared to go so far, however, as thero are rare occasion:- when a short one proves an annoying factor for the opposition. Xo young third players and skips I wo u !d say: If you have the shot draw for a second "behind" the jack. Do not pile three or four bowls round the jack, and do not attempt to play blocks, Blocks are very difficult shots to play, back position SSISiT sjjgfc ssysi L trv, '&'clock" under any other conditions. Blocks are very difficult shots to play, and nine out of every ten never reach the desired spot: hence thfi shot is thrown away. When you hold one or two shots, and you have got your back bowls judiciously placed, then a block is "soft goods." Experience also teaches us that you cannot "absolutely block a good drawing bowl, provided, it is properly greened. If you.have a "toucher," get into the back country, and leave the single bowl for the other side to 'blaze away' a t. Do not give a rest, a guide, or a target when you have a "toucher." "Give him nothing, and get behnd," is sound advice, which all young- players should note. The game is to get the s not. Once you have it, "pair" every bowl that comes along from the opposition. Herein lies the secret of winning games. Do not play for "pots" and neglect your position. Score as manyas you can, certainly, but your aim should always be to prevent the other fellow from scoring. Some of the most noted skips are not brilliant individual players, but are great generals. Mariy players, after having played a few games as skip or three, think they s te too good to act as lead or two, and it is a great pity such should be the case, for their play deteriorates. Competent —authorities on the game say 'here is no more important position in a rink team, all positions being equally 'mportant, and all who have played in j a few games know the wonderful effect > °a a game of good work by the lead or ' two. A good lead or two is worth his j Place in any rink. In selecting rinks ■ to represent a club, there is seldom any j difficulty in filling the position of skip , °r three, but it is hard to fill the other j positions; a team of skips is seldom a ! Weess, and if a man can play well as . i lead or two he need have no fear of j "«ing overlooked when the club rinks j If 6 bfijjyf chosen. i