MALE FASHIONS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26616, 12 November 1947, Page 4

MALE FASHIONS

EVIDENCE OF CHANGE LEAD FROM OVERSEAS TREND TOWARDS OLD STYLES In the sartorial scuffle occasioned by the fashion leaders’ arbitrary and unpopular lengthening of women’s skirts, the fact that masculine clothing is also showing a trend towards older styles appears to have been overlooked. A few years ago, when blouses BD or shirts KD had replaced sports coats on most male torsos, there was a certain amount of speculation as to the future of men’s wear. The expected desire to retain battledress form in civilian styling has not, however, occurred.

Harassed by shortages and coupons, Bond street and the Continent have yielded their leadership in male styles to America, and current magazines from that country show that a definite lead is being given. Trousers are narrowing, jackets are lengthening, and collars are becoming broader. Dunedin tailors state that there has been no change as yet, but concede that it may come. Old picture albums showing senior members of the family dressed in the type of trousers popularly referred to as “snake catchers” may not seem so amusing in a few more years “ the tendency to narrow the width of the bottom of trouser legs is continued. Local residents who have bought clothing in America since the war or who have had clothing sent from friends in that country are chary of appearing in these articles in public. Eoth in cut and in colour they are easily distinguishable from the sombre and conservative suitings favoured locally. It is unlikely that such a reversion in trouser width would be popular among men, but a f!K on changes come almost imperceptibly, and organised revolt is often too late. Coats and Collars The length of suit coats has gradually increased over the past 1U years, and there has also been a gradual change in the cut qf coat lapels and waistcoats. Even so, visiting Americans can be distinguished on New Zealand streets by the length of their iackets, the shoulders of which are generally wider than those of locally-made suits. . Shirt collars shown on American fashion models have also altered in shape, and again the trend is towards an older fashion, with deep points set further apart. Ties, of course, have already achieved the startling colour schemes locally which are popular overseas, although the change has been in part accelerated by the lack of suitable materials and the substitution of tmightly patterned fabrics normally to women’s frocks. To the considerable band who staunchly geject wifely attempts to persuade them to wear hats, fashions in headwear remain a matter of indifference. But experts in the trade consider that there may be a demand in New Zealand for different types of felts and a wider variety of shades. Overseas hat styles appear to have passed the period of brim expansion, and. there is now a suggestion that the narrow brims favoured some years ago may return. It is certain, however that there will be changes in the bands or in the crowns, for if there is one thing which remains constant in the fashion business it is the designers’ careful handling of trends to preclude old clothes from becoming cc mpletely fashionable again. Extreme Fashions It. is possible that New Zealand designers of men’s wear' may consider the new decision to abolish the “ thumbs-in ” custom in cutting cloth a good “selling point” towards the introduction of narrowed trousers. The alternative will, of course, be dearer suits and slacks. Just how far the turning of male fashions full circle will go remains to be seen. Certainly it is outside the bounds of probability that traditionally conservative New Zealanders will ever reach the fantastic “zoot-suit” stage of contemporary American extremists. Nor is it probable' that the expressed hope of one Dunedin youngster will be realised. After parental discussion on the trend towards longer skirts, she announced that she was looking forward to the day when her father would set off for work in wig and kr.ee-breeches. It is certain, however, that no matter how slow or how subtle Hie- change, or how small the customer’s desire, the designers will ensure that male fashion also remains fickle.