THE MOTOR WORLD

New Zealand Times, Volume XLII, Issue 9789, 12 October 1917, Page 8

THE MOTOR WORLD

CHASSIS NOISES HOW TO LOCATE LOOSE OR BROKEN PARTS. Some interesting hints on how to locate loose or broken parts responsible for rough riding were given recently by Mr H. C. Brokaw in tho Now York "Herald. "Does your car chatter?” he asked. "Does it talk to you and protest against against running over holes and bumps in tho road ? If it does it is a sign that you should pay attention to. a hint that you should do away with the knocks and clicks and chattering .which annoy you and everybody else within hearing as you run along. That is, if you find them, for there are some noises so obscure as to defy detection even by the expert. "Such was the car which developed a sharp click when it was started forward or backward. It ran quite a long time before it was possible to discover just what and where it was. It was somewhere in the back end, but so hidden as to defy detection. The rear axle was of the floating type, the construction in which the driving shaft is connected to the hub of tho wheel by a number of flutings on the shaft, into which corresponding projections of the flange fitted. Those had become worn and allowed sufficient play to cause a noise. ‘‘By walking alongside of tho rear wheel while the car was being started and stopped it was decided that tho sound came from the hub of the wheel. Tho hub cap was removed, and by placing the finger on the hub flange and end of shaft at the same time tho play was detected by the sense of feeling, though it was hardly visible to the eye. Tho trouble was overcome by having the shaft welded to the flange. 1 have seen cases where the wheel was keyed on, and where the keys had acquired sufficient play to cause a continuous knocking, especially when the machine was being driven at low speed. This sort of knocking is more likely to occur with the I°ur cylinder, slow speed engine than with the high speed, many-cylmdered typo. "A mysterious knock sometimes iuaj bo traced to the torque rod, which is loose at the forward end, or to worn torque tube bearings, and in some cases tho bolts fastening the torque rods to tho rear axle becomes loosened, or worn, causing a knock, especially when going over bumps or dropping into holes. “The brake pods become worn and set up a continuous clattering on rouga roads and this noise is accentuated if the tyres are kept inflated at too high a pressure. Worn spring shackle bolts will nor ordinarily cause knocking or rattling, but when going over bumps or holes the rebound of the body is sufficient to make the looseness audible. It can be overcome by having a new bolt put in, and prevented by keeping tho bolts well lubricated. Worn steering knuckle pins and tie rod holts will bo found responsible sometimes for knocks and rattles in the front end of tho car. The remedy is obvious and tho location of the noise is not hard to find. . ‘‘ln addition, to these, wo have rattles due to tools being thrown loosely into the tool box, and sometimes the body, bolts become loosened. The lamps occasionally jolt loose. There are other knocks due to broken gear teeth and other broken parts. And then there are the knocks and rattles from the hundred or more accessories which axe attached to tho chassis of many cars and which sooner or later develop defects and noipc. "The up to date, well designed car in perfect shape is practically noiseless and if a knock or rattle develops it indicates that something is worn or out of adjustment and needs attention. The owner who takes care to have all parts properly lubricated and kept tight need fear none of these .annoyances, and proper attention means lack of annoyance when out touring, while slovenly habits will advertise themselves to every one along the road.” HEND SHALL CUTS AND SAVE THE TYRE. "A stitch in time saves nine,” says another American expert. “If you want to reduce your tyre bill yon must watch the small cuts and mend them before they become larger. First get acquainted with your shoes. Provide hot water, a small box to sit on; jack up eacn wheel in turn and clean off the casing thoroughly. Dig a screwdriver into each hole and clear it of all gravel and sand. Long-nosed pliers may be used to carry a piece of waste dipped in gasolene into the hole to clean it. A portable vulcanizer may now bo used to close the cut with a permanent patch of vulcanised rubber. These vulcanising outfits are low in cost and are very serviceable. Full directions come. with each outfit. They must be used in the house, however, as most vulcanisers use gasolene, and an open flame is forbidden in garages. The electric vulcanisers are not open to this objection. "If a portable vulcanises is Hot used you may readily fill all cuts with tyre putty. This patch is a little softer than the vulcanised patch, but it is much more quickly applied. Tho cut must be cleaned with gasolene first and allowed to dry. Tyre cement is then spread over the sides of the out and allowed to dry. A small piece of the putty is worked between the fingers to soften it after which it is forced into the cut, filling it completely, and rising slightly above to allow for shrinkage and wear. This prevents the cut from opening more and picking up grit which forces its way in until it meets the breaker strip. Here it spreads sideways, loosening the tread and accumulating at the side in a socalled "sand pocket.” This must be cleaned out and vulcanised—a job for the professional vulcaniser as the average owner has neither, the skill nor the apparatus to do it properly. Repairs on the casing arc limited to small cute, as a cut or tear through the fabric means a large repair, which can only be prepared by a skilled workman and vulcanised on special apparatus."