A TRIP TO THE LAKES AND SPRINGS.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXIII, Issue 5341, 10 May 1878, Page 3

A TRIP TO THE LAKES AND SPRINGS.

Having heard of the lakes and hot springs of the Taupo District, I resolved to visit them; and for greater diversity of scenery I choose the river route. I left Wanganui, having previously engaged a canoe and two Maoris, and; reached Ranana (whence a good track leads to Murimetu) on the second evening, a distance of nearly 60 miles from town ; and after being hospitably entertained by Mr. Hanson, proceeded onwards by the canoe a few miles further to Iruharama. There I remained for some days, visiting Pipiriki (about 8 miles higher up) in the interval. To describe the varied scenery on the river is simply, impossible. In its long and winding, course each bend of the river reveals some novel and interesting feature. At one reach we have on the right a lofty grass and fern-clad hill of wild and almost bleak aspect, and in some parts almost perpendicular, 200 feet or 300 feet in height; whilst the opposite bank is dotted with patches of Maori cultivation, or clearings, on the slopes or table-lands, hacked up by clumps of forest trees of various hues; and nearer to the water’s edge karaka tree and manuka scrub, as well as peach groves and palm ferns, are strangely intermingled, and sometimes appear to be fringed along the river’s edge with rows, or it may be single trees, of the weeping willow. Then the next turn of the river reverses the picture, the flat or table-land seeming to have changed places with the former steep and rugged hills ; thus we have the cultivations and whares alternately on either side of the river. There are some beautiful silent pools suitable for trout or salmon ; and we heard that 5000 young salmon had been safely deposited in the river near to Parakino. “ May their shadows (or increase rather) never grow less.” The Maoris are very expert in handling their long tokos, or poles, in going through the rapids and over the shallows. No one can ever regret a trip by canoe up the Wanganui. We noticed several pheasants on our way up, ns also several flocks of wild ducks, and a goodly number of wild pigeons. Tuis and other smaller birds in some, of the woody gorges are constantly flitting about, and the varied melody of the different species is very pleasant to the ear. By-the-bye Moutoa and Pipiriki were visited by us, both places being the scenes of former conflicts. The former is near Ranana, the latter being, ns I stated, eight miles above Iruherama. On my return to the last-named I procured a horse and started one fide morning, which quickly changed to rain, in company with a native, by the inland road. The rain coming down heavier we did not travel as quickly as we expected, and only made Oroakukuru, a small cluster of Maori huts, where wo camped all night, and pushing on early next morning wo reached Ngatokorua at nightfall, close to Moorhonse's station, on tbeMurimotu Plains. Started after breakfast next day, and rode over those beautiful plains of which I had previously heard so much. Eight in front towards the west towered the snow-clad peaks, of Ruapehu, and in riding across the plains I was_ struck with awo and surprise when Tongariro and its wonders camo in view, which I will describe farther on. Oh proceeding further I found much of the land between the two mountains for miles covered with big rocks and boulders, aqd little or no vegetation save Ejtunted * scrub. The' Murimotu Block, including the station above named, contains some of the finest laind in New Zealand. This block, of say 200,000 acres more or less, 1 has for many years been the subject of-much speculation and dispute. It is well watered by numerous rivers . and streams. After a short stay, I started with a

native for Tokano, situate at the south end of Taupo Lake, which is, about forty-five miles long. There is‘a good track leading from Muriruotu to Tokano, passing through fine grassy plains, sweeping round the base of Tougariro, and crossing several small streams. By °fchi3 track wo proceeded on our way, and arrived at Kopou, the pa of the wellknown chief Topia, at sunset. This village or pa contains about one hundred natives, and is pleasantly situated on the shore of Lake Kotoaira. Here, after our ride of forty-five miles, we were hospitably welcomed, and after a night’s stay, started next morning for Tokano, and passing 'through fine .fern land for about fifteen ;.miles arrived at our destination by midday. Rambled about. Slept at the hotel; meals and beds 2s. fid. each. Rose early next morning, and started off to see the hot springs, the nearest of which are only about 100yds. from the hotel. There are say twenty to thirty springs or jets in all within an area of about three to four acres ; but the chief attractions are the three, main springs. These are level with the surface, resemble large tanks or reservoirs, and appear as if built out of concrete. They stand facing the visitor. No. 1, the largest on the right hand, contains boiling water ; it is in depth about 12ft., and is clear as crystal. On the right hand corner of this beautiful spring a large hole is observable, resembling a waste pipe, down and • through which the boiling water passes underneath Nos., 1 and 2, and emerges (by means of a similar passage to No. 1) at the extreme left corner of No. 3. To explain this more clearly, No. 1 boils over and runs through the channel described already, underneath No. 2, the centre one, into No. 3. This then boils over and discharges into the centre one, No. 2, which in its turn overflows into No. 1. And so, .unceasingly these wonderful creations of nature go on, constantly ebbing and flowing, yet always full, except when No. 1 at intervals ebbs away and falls about say 3ft., when it is speedily refilled out of No. 2, which; strange aa it may seem, always remains quite full, replenishing and being. replenished., Any irregularity of course proceeds from No, 1, which drains away every three or four hours, and again fills up. The natives are always about the springs, as the smaller jets and springs are their boilers, in which they cook ther food, in kits, and wash and bleach their clothes, &c. But these smaller jets, being at boiling heat, are rather too much for bathing, and consequently the three big ones are their readymade baths. But the middle reservoir or bath contains the healing ingredients which have braced up many a shattered frame, and expelled that torturing compliant rheumatism, as well as lumbago and other ailments. This middle bath is always of an agreeable warmth and no more. It is said also to cure scorbutic, affections, eruptions, and skin complaints of all sorts. At no distant time I expect to see a sanatorium ou the most extended hygienic principles and on a large.scale opened up there for invalids, as the water taken from the middle bath or. spring possesses powerful aperient qualities, a tablespoonful being equal in effect to .half-an*ounce of Epsom salts. I was surprised to hear that these valuable springs are very seldom visited; for considering their situation, and the delightful climate and facilities afforded, they are unsurpassed ; but the day will, I believe, soon , arrive when the Tokano Springs will be much frequented. Of, my visit to the sulphur springs, &c., I will treat in another letter, as I am afraid of intruding on your space.— l am, &c., Traveller. (To be continued.)