FASHION GOSSIP.

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXII, Issue 5179, 27 October 1877, Page 2 (Supplement)

FASHION GOSSIP.

The only difference between the midsummer dresses and autumn costumes will be in their colors, nothing more. At present white and the very strongest of blues, pinks, grays, yellows, ecrus, and lilacs are worn. At the late Grand Prix white and blue shared the honors of the day. Madame de MacMahon, even—a lady who has passed the meridian of her life—has adopted the lightest of shades for her outdoor toilettes this year. Ecru and cream, especially, seem to have become her favorites. No lady, therefore, need now hesitate about wearing light shades which she.had thought the sole privilege of the young. Ladies of all ages may wear the same colors and the same materials as the young. The difference between age and youth depends bn the make and the amount of trimming on the dress. Thus it is we see the most buxom of matrons attired in white cashmere, blue cashmere, pink cashmere, and dainty cambrics'and muslins. And why not ? Why should not the mother of a girl of eighteen still seek to please the eye of her daughter’s father, just as the daughter seeks to please an unknown eye in a crowd ? We thank, therefore, Madame de MacSlahon, who, as leader of the Biona&mces of fashion, shows us the way to dress coquettishly at every age without encroaching even by an inch on decorum or etiquette. It is then understood every lady may now wear white, or lightcolored dresses. Our walks and our homes are no longer to be filled with mourning hues. We are to look young, bright, and happy in youth’s bright, gladdening hues. Tant mieux. Velvet skirts and sleeves, embroidered silk skirts and sleeves, have again appeared. The tunics worn over these aro of embroidered or plain cr6pe-de-chine. These are truly beautiful in whatever color they are made. Thdhe in white or black are the lovliest of all. Make is almost everything in a dress, and as cambrics aro the fashion, every one may be fashionably dressed if she will. . Some dressmakers are endeavoring to bring in a very ugly-flowered chintz with huge yellow palms on it, and this is so hideous and so terribly unbecoming that I fear it will be adopted by ladies who imagine that to look comme U faut they must bo unbecomingly dressed. The Louis XV. coat may now be made of linen or cambric, and be worn instead of the ordinary tunic over a silk skirt of the same color or black. In each case a large bow, forming a sash, and of the same material as the coat, is placed on the left side of the waist. We are I think coming back to waistbands and sashes. I have seen several lately. Scarfs are quite accepted by the ladies. As a rule, however, the gentlemen do not like this fashion. They prefer the close-fitting jacket. The present scarf, however, is not more than half a yard in width, and it is worn high on the shoulder, so as not to conceal the waist. It is generally tied in front, and fastened to the dress by a bow of ribbon or a flower. Bat each lady wears her scarf in a different manner. If she has to take a gentleman’s arm, she must let the scarf fall loosely. If she walk alone, she may study her taste, and that is all. Mittens are now beginning to show themselves in the street. They are made of white, black, or ecru net, or lace. They are also worn in cotton and thread like the costumes. They should be quite plain now.

In Lingerie I have to notice to yon that collars are large, square, and flat, and fall over the dress instead of standing up ; whilst the euffa are equally large, some square and flat, and are turned over the sleeves, instead of falling over the hand—that is, when the sleeve is tight. When it is loose, or partially so, under frills become necessary, and then, also, a frill must surround the neck. For there must be harmony as well as method in dress. Gold bonnets are one of the last Paris extremes. They are made of staw, which is then steeped in a bath of gold. The trimming consists of a large velvet bow and a humming bird.

Children wear Chinese hats. A few young girls also wear them. Toques, or round hats, are covered with gauze veils, some surrounding them like scarfs, others wrapping entirely over them, like a Creole’s handkerchief. The scarf is the prettiest. At the seaside, where everybody who can go manages itsomehow, cambrics and ginghams, and the ever-useful unbleached holland, are seen. Many of the cambrics are trimmed with handsome white embroidery, and are really stylish affairs, particularly suitable for quiet garden and croquet parties. Dust-colored and scarlet cloakshave appeared, and most useful they are, as in a moment they are put on and off. They are made of light laiuage that is light in texture and color, and are not expensive. Some have a border of galon to match in color the cloak ; but the chief part are plain, the edge finished with a double of treble row of stitching, mostly in brown silk. There are fewer trained dresses seen at the seaside than elsewhere. Only for the evening promenade are they very visible. The oddest masquerade costumes possible are seen by the sea and at favorite bathing-places. The love of finery is inherent in the human mind, or women folk would never indulge in such odd-looking bathingdresses, bound upon the figure like so many mummies ; even the little children are thus rendered ridiculous-looking. Another odd-looking fashion is the style of wearing a veil by most ladies of middle age, considered indispensable. At the seaside a veil is necessary ; but how often is it seen drawn tightly over the face and nose, making the latter look like a very white point in the centre of a clouded face. Black lace shawls are much worn, particularly over light dresses. Lace of. all kinds is reappearing. To wear real and expensive lace is no longer considered a mark of distinction, except to the initiated eye', but for the mass, lace must be had, even if it be an imitation of a more expensive kind. A very effective and remarkable-looking lace is made by running round the outline of the patterns of lace. It is done with colored or white filoselle, to match or contrast with the tint of the dress. Cream-white filoselle washes well.

Glasgow percales, of soft finish and without glaze, is the name given to the new cambrics, and mantalettes d la tonne femme to the fichus, or litt e mantles, which tie in the front, by lapping one end over the other. The dropparasol, under the name of parasolette, is fashionable and certainly coquettish. A hinge is placed near the point, and thus the parasol drops just beneath the point, and so conseals the face at pleasure. Among the caprices of fashion I must mention embroidered stockings, which are plain across the instep, and embroidered on the “clocks;” but the work makes the ankles look thick. As to color, all miserable tints of drab, brown, black, enlivened only by white or tilleul, making their wearers look like the lichened boles of trees, are now discarded. All the hues of the rainbow in full splendor are the fashion, whether appearing in stripes or in ribbons, which in the shape of loops or bows and ends denominate all costumes. The ribbon-weavers should be exultant. The beautiful clear blue, something bordering on pale ultramarime, and cerise in all its shades, are mingled withg rand effect. Scarlet and yellow, clove, carnation, dem, yellow and black, pink and green, and even lace is embroidered with colored beads—• In fact, color is triumphant. It is difficult to describe.to yon the marvels of ingenuity in costumes displayed by the modistes. I must not omit to say that batiste material has always the trimming of Valenciennes, while lacs Mirecourt, a much thinner fabric, is used for other materials. Evening dresses and dinner costumes are cut very low in the back and front; but this is remedied by having a full pleating of tulle placed in the centre of the back and on the bust, so that this addition gives an exquisite modesty to the fashion. Another word about color. All napery, as the Scotch term it, is marked, in the most vivid colors, and in all fanciful designs, in which the monograms are nearly hidden. And now to tell you something which is not fashion but sadness. M. Vieuxtemps, the celebrated violinist, has been struck with paralysis, and Madame Michelet is tinablo to reap benefit from her own and her husband’s publications, because the latter neglected to secure the copyright to her. Madame brought an action against the publishers, which she ha? lost. Justice is on her side, but the daw is against.

her—oh, those husbands ! If a girl is said to be unfit for marriage till she is versed in domestic matters, how much more ought it to be compulsory for a man to know the law which governs his profession or trade ?—M.‘ I)B B. in Ladies' Treasury.