Ladies' Column.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 226, 8 January 1876, Page 3

Ladies' Column.

NEAV COLORS. The new failles and gros grains are all of very dark shades—brown and blue seem to predominate, but they are both exceedingly deep in tone. Plain colors have still the preference, although matelasse designs, quaint patterns of moyen age brocades, and rich figured silks arc fast gaining favour. The names given to new shades by the Lyons manufacturers vary, but the following may be taken as fairly authentic in brown failles Two shades of “ marron” or chesnut color ; “ funice” or smoke-brown —a shade with which Londoners should be tolerably familiar ; three shades of “paiubrule” or burnt bread ; “solitaire,” an unmixed brown ; Sienna brown, which has red tinges ; and “negrillon,” which is well nigh black. There are some few Carmelite and bronze shades : but mongrel hues will, we are rejoiced to say, give place to positive color. In blues there are also some now tints ; for example, “cassis,” which is the color of black currants with slight tints of blue : “marine fonce,” a very dark navyblue ; and several indigo shades scarcely removed from black. “ Sphinx” is the popular grey-blue introduced in very dark shades. The names of the new greys, which color will also be well worn, are likewise remarkable. “Caoutchouc” is very dark and stylish ; “Bilboa” is blue-grey; and “Rat” grey is just what it claims to be. The new red shades are also darker than those that have been worn throughout the summer. “Chamber tin” is the color of the wine ; “Enter” defines itself ; and “Nacarat” is orange-red. MAKING UP A COMPLEXION. A very curious industry in Paris, and one that is more extensive than might be supposed from its nature, is that of paints, pencils, and powders for making up the complexion. Most of the great perfumers, such as Guerlain, Pirer, etc., have a back room to their shops especially devoted to this mysterious commerce. The ordinary method of daubing the face, first with a white paint and then with a rouge, finds no favour with the consummate artists who teach the use of these beautifying compounds. For whitening the skin a preparation is shown that is composed of some insoluble powder in a liquid. The bottle must first bo well shaken and a very small quantity of its contents must then be taken on a fine old linen rag or bit of cotton and rubbed round and round till the preparation has penetrated the skin thoroughly. This wash, they say, makes the complexion “ beautifully white” without a trace of the flouriness of powder or ordinary paint. It is very costly, being sold at 12dol. for a small bottle full. Next comes the rouge, which is also very costly, being valued at lSdol. for a box of the best quality. From this superfine article the grades descend through different prices, until the coarse 60c. rouge is reached, which no well-bred beauty will condescend to use. Different shades of rouge are sold for different occasions ; there is a shade for daylight, one for the theatre, one for the ball-room, one for the racecourse, etc. Then there is a scarlet liquid used for coloring the lips, and a black powder for blackening the edges of the eyelids ; this last requires some dexterity in its use, as it must be put on as a powder, and then delicately “washed in” with a fine linen rag and luke-warm water. Black and brown pencils are used for marking the arch of the eye heavy, and a pencil of the delicate blue comes for tracing the veins on the white surface • of the painted skin. To aid in this last crowning touch of

the whole artistic performance, a chart has been prepared which gives witii medical accuracy the position every vein in the human face, neck, and chest. The negative quality of harmlessness is claimed for most of these pigments, yet deaths from too free a use of them are not uncommon. M. Obin, of the Grand Opera, was killed by the white paint wherewith lie whitened his head when he played AVilliam Tell, and Mdllc. Mass, the celebrated actress, fell a victim to the poisonous effects of the hair-dye wherewith she restored the raven line of her iirofusc tresses. MANTLES. Mantles are to be worn either very long or very short, there is no intermediate size. The short velvet mantles, elaborately embroidered, arc most suitable to dressy toilettes, and the long mantles made either of cloth or of Sicilicnde, are cliieily intended for walking costumes, or for throwing over the shoulders in a carriage. The new trimming for mantles is exceedingly wide braid—in many instances as much as 3in. or 'tin. wide —and the cashmere and zephyr costumes prepared for winter are likewise trimmed with wide braid. It is strong but costly, and is usually made of thick silk, either to match in color the dress it goes to trim, or black witii a design in either dead silver, jet, or gold down the centre; sometimes the pattern is a check of gold and silk, or of silver and silk. This centre has all the effect of being another braid, but in reality it is a design woven in the wider braid. Some very dressy mantles are ornamented with wide gold braid, and a black Sicilicnne mantle with this gold braid describing a point in the back is no doubt stylish, but it can only be worn in the evening or in a carriage. AVortli lias certainly propagated this fashion of bra'ds, for lie uses them on almost all toilettes for day wear. PROMISED LAND FOR AVOMEN. Olive Harper writes of domestic life In Greece, that in one respect it is the promised land for women ; for the husbands in devotion to their wives arc themselves their only parallel. She says :—A Greek man is only content when lie can lavisii upon his wife all the luxuries in the way of dress the female heart can desire. He is only happy when, in company with his wife in the house, in the garden or on the promenade, she is the best dressed of all the fair. AVith the Greek husband there is no grumbling consent to bestow upon you enough to buy a pair of boots, while he spends more than ten times that amount witii his friends in champagne suppers ; no long-drawn visage as ho doles out a stingy sum, while delivering a solemn lecture as to female extravagance. Not a bit of it. On the contrary, the Greek husband does not lead his wife through by-streets for fear of dry goods stores when she wishes to go out for a little walk. He leads her, on the contrary, past the most fashionable stores, and observes with the eye of a critic, all the new stylos, and is really, ladies, really and truly willing to spend his money for his own wife. Even for fear she should not be considered so lovely as some one else, lie goes to a perfumer’s, he buys cold cream, rice powder, delicate pinks for cheeks a little blanched by the stern realities of motherhood ; he buys a little blade for eyelashes, to brighten eyes that have become somewhat dimmed by tears, perhaps, or vigris over sickly babies, and he not only gives his full and free consent to their use, but ho himself will artistically apply them, and afterward compliment iiis wife upon her beauty till her heart swells with love that he knows so well how to retain, fresh as when their first vows wore plighted. Yes, of a verity, the Greeks are bad men, but good husbands and tender fathers. RECIPES. Ham and Eggs. —To make a dish of ham and eggs as good as possible, cut the ham nearly half an inch thick, boil it in plenty of water till barely cooked through, pour off the water and put the pan in a place just hot enough to brown the fat part of the ham slightly, but not hot enough to make smoke, or to brown the lean meat much. AVlien this is finished, remove the frying-pan from the fire, take up the ham, pour off the fat into a cup, and wipe the pan till it shines like a mirror, without a single speck to mar the polish. Then put in a spoonful of the clear part of the fat, break in the eggs, and set the pan in a place scarcely hotter than boiling water ; cover it, and let the eggs cook as slowly as possible for four or five minutes, taking them up as soon as they can be lifted out. Place them round the ham, and do not pour any of the fat on the dish. Fat with mashed potatoes. —Country Gentleman. How to Peeseeve Meat. —As soon as the animal heat is out of the meat slice it up ready for cooking. Prepare a large jar by scalding well with hot salt and water. Mix salt and pulverised saltpetre to one teacupful of salt. Cover the bottom of the jar with a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Put down a layer of meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, the same as if just going to the table, and continue in this manner till the jar is full. Fold a cloth or towel and wet it in strong salt and water, in which a little of the saltpetre is dissolved. Press the cloth closely over the meat and set in a cool place. Be sure and press the cloth on tightly as each layer is removed, and your meat will keep for months. It is a good plan to let the meat lie over night after it is sliced before packing. Then drain off all the blood that oozes from it. It will be necessary to change the cloth occasionally, or take it off and wash it— first in cold water—then scald in salt and water as at first.