The Farm.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 35, 23 September 1871, Page 8

The Farm.

COTTAGE MANAGEMENT OE THE SILKWORM. The Sixth Age of the Silkworm.—About the eight or ninth day after the worms begin to Bpin, the cocoons may be gathered. The bunches of birch or heath should be taken down, and the cocoons picked off and put into a basket; at this time, also the floss or loose Bilk that attaches the cocoon to the branches should be picked off. The cocoon should be Bold, or the silk immediately wound off, or if they are to be kept some time, they should be steamed, to kill the chrysalis, otherwise on becoming a moth it will eat through the silk, and of course spoil it. Before the cocoons are steamed, a few of the best should be picked out for seed. There is no sui’e sign of distinguishing the cocoons that contains the male from the female moth; the only way is to pick out the most compact and well formed. It takes nearly 200 moths, male and female, to produce one ounce of eggs. About ten or twelve days after gathering the cocoons, if the thermometer standsabout 70 degrees, the moth will appear. The male and female will immediately couple. The next day the female should be placed on linen (it is preferable to paper) to deposit her eggs. In about four or five days, she will have finished her work,-and terminated her short but eventful life. The linen with the eggs should remain in a dry airy place, for about a fortnight; and then be folded up and put away in as-dry and cold a place as possible, but out of the reach of frost. The following is the most simple method of steaming the cocoons : —Take a tin saucepan about 18 inches deep, and 10 diameter, and fill the same with water, to the depth of 4 to 5 inches; over that should be hung, to reach within about five inches of the water, a division of tin, perforated with numerous holes, to allow the steam to escape above, wherein a basket made to fit the upper division should be placed, filled ■with cocoons ; it should be covered over with a lid, made to fit tight, so that little or no steam should escape. The water should be made to boil before you place the basket of cocoons in it; it should remain about eight minutes, the water kept boiling all the time, but not violently. Another basket full should be in readiness to replace the one taken out, and so on till you complete the whole. After remaining a few minutes in the basket they should be spread out to dry, and in about ten days or a fortnight they will be sufficiently dry to put away. The space that will be required for the rearing of the produce of an ounce of eggs will be —for the first age, about 7 square feet; second, 14; third, 50; fourth, 120 ; fifth, 360. The quantity of leaves which will be required is—for the first age, about 6 pounds ■weight ; second, 12 ; third, 50 ; fourth, 150 ; fifth, 1000. As this is intended for the cottager, I give ifc in as plain and economical a way as possible so that every article used may be within the reach of the most humble. I now come to make a few observations with respect to the supply of food to be obtained, to rear this singular and most useful insect, which, I have no doubt, can be very easily accomplished: Many have been the experiments to find out a substitute for the mulberry, but none as yet has been found to answer the purpose. We must therefore look to the black mulberry (morus nigra), or the white mulberry (morus alba) as the only trees likely to answer. The black mulberry is well known to be but of slow growth, (most of the large mulberry trees about London are supposed to have been planted in the reign of James the Eirst, when he attempted the growth of silk in this country), and, indeed, cultivated in very few countries, for the sake of its leaves as food of silkworms, —Spain and Sicily excepted. The white mulberry is much preferable to the black, as being of much quicker growth, comes earlier into leaf, and the silkworms when fed upon it, produce much finer silk. It is therefore the white malberry that we have to look to for a supply of food for our silkworm. EOWLS FOR THE PARMER. Much has been said and written about which breed of fowl is the most profitable for the farmer to keep. All have their merits and admirers, and not one of the recognised breeds that has not some peculiar qualities in its favor beyond its fellows ; and hence it is why we have such a diversity of opinion among the breeders and fanciers as to which is the most profitable to keep. It will not be denied, however, that there are some breeds possessed of such general characteristics for usefulness as to render them more suitable, and better adapted to the farmer and general breeder than others. That which combines within itself large size, good laying, and flesh-forming qualities, and hardihood, requiring the least amount of care and attention, either in chickenhood or maturity, will at once be admitted to be the most suitable fowl for the farmer. He ■wants not only a good supply of eggs during the year, hut also meat for his table, or for the market.

We have ro hesitation, then, in saying that the Brahma fowl possesses all these qualities, and many others besides, and that of all the recognized breeds of fowls, it is the best adapted and most suitable to the farmer. The size of the Brahma at once renders it an object of attention. In this respeot it surpasses all other breeds, not excepting the gigantic Cochin. Hens in their second year, with moderate care, •will weigh from 81b to 101 b, and cockerels from 131 b to 14<lb each. The quality of the meat is also good 5 when tolerably well fed it will be found almost, and very often, quite equal to the Dorking. There is probable a little less meat on the breast, but this is compensated by the extra quantity of that on the thigh ; indeed, many people think the leg of a Brahma cockerel one of the best parts of the bird. If the object of the farmer is simple to procure chicken for

the table or the market, then a cross between the Brahma and a Dorking cock will produce truly magnificent fowls, the largest, perhaps, that have even been reared. Chickens thus bred have, at the age of six months, attained the weight of 181 b the couple, and over. As a laying fowl, the Brahma is, in our opinion, equal to any other breed. There is no doubt that the propensity to sit interferes considerably with the production of eggs. Notwithstanding this, the fecundity of the hen and pullet is very great. Brahma pullets will lay with regularity at six to seven months old, and usually sit within two months after. They may be made exceedingly useful, when a regular supply of eai’ly birds for the market is desired. Indeed no breed so eminently possesses the merit of regularity and certainty in the time of incubation, without carrying it to a troublesome excess, as in the case with the Cochin. It is also remarked that the hen in her second year lays much longer than the pullets, and in this respect makes the fowls, as a layer, far superior to the Cochin, or indeed any other. After the second year, the tendency to incubate becomes greater, and increase with age. We would, therefore, recommend that hens, after the third year, shoirld be got rid of; nor indeed is there any necessity to keep them longer, as pullets can always be had to supply their places. In connection with the production of eggs, we may mention another cross with the Brahma well worth the attention of the farmer, that is, between a Brahma hen and a Spanish or Minorca cock. This cross produces a fowl generally black on the body, with dark-striped hackle, which for average fecundity surpasses any, and every fowl we know. Altogether, then we consider that, the Brahma possesses a greater amount of usefulness and value than any other pure breed, and is also capable, in an eminent degree, of communicating its good qualities to other fowls by crossing; and for this reason we strongly recommend it to the farmer as a stock fowl. —“ Canadian Poultry Chronicle.” HOW TO CLASS SHEEP. To class sheep properly requires an amount of skill which nothing but extended practical experience can confer. There ai’e many defects in sheep, both of carcase and wool, which cannot be clearly defined to the apprehension of the wholly inexperienced person, by any description in writing. If the. sheep owner has not the opportunity of getting his sheep classed by an expert, he may, by observing the instructions, be enabled to detect and throw out of his flocks such sheep as are palpably had. Sheep of the following description may safely be rejected : 1. A very short-stapled hard-woolled sheep. 2. Sheep that strip at the points, and loose the belly wool, having a clean head without top knot. 3. Any that have black or yellow spots on legs or face. 4. Unusually small sheep. 5. Any that appear thin and constitutionally feeble. 6. Sheep whose wool is thin and light. 7. Those which have short hairs on the face, under the arm, and inside the thigh. S. Any with very coarse wool about the breech and tail. 9. Any with long hairs appearing on the surface of the fleece. 10. Any sheep whose wool at shearing time is less than one inch on the ribs or wither. 11. Any long-legged small bodied sheep. 12. Sheep dipped in the back, or otherwise misshapen. It is not unusual to hear people descanting on the merits of some particular animal, and winding up by declaring that the wool like “opened a book.” Either the phrase or idea is incorrect. Wool, when you open it on the sheep, should not open in long layers ; on the contrary, no part of the fleece should open but that you actually touch, and no disturbance should be apparent at a distance of three or four inches from your hand. In a really good fleece, every fibre of wool should grow independent of any other like hairs in a broom, and no two should be entangled with each other from root to point. Sound wool of this kind would comb well, if no more than an inch or an inch and a half in length. By carefully culling such defective animals out of such flocks yearly, both the quantity and quality of the wool will improve rapidly and it is more than useless to keep them, since their progeny will be worse than themselves. It does not require any amount of skill, or even of common sense, to detect these glaring imperfections ; yet if these brief hints be carefully and intelligently put into practice little will be left for the classor to do, and whilst doing this the farmer will soon be able to detect other faults. CARBOLIC ACID FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES. Mr Graham Mitchell, a veterinary surgeon, resident in Melbourne says : —Carbolic acid is now deservedly considered an invaluable remedy for the treatment of external injuries and diseases of domesticated animals. It may be used from the strength of a weak eye lotion to that of a powerful caustic. The pure crystallised acid should only be used for medicinal purposes ; the crystals are readily dissolved by placing the bottle containing the acid in warm water, and may be retained in a liquid state ready for use by adding a small quantity of water, oil, glycerine, or vinegar, or made into an ointment w r ith lard, or into a putty or paste, with chalk and carbolic oil. Carbolic soap and the various preparations have a remarkable power of cleansing foul wounds, correcting vicious discharges, stimulating the healing process, effectually kills verminal insects infecting the skin of auimals ; such as ticks, lice, acarus, mange, ringworm, &c. They have a-remarkable effect in soothing irritation and allaying pain as met with in severe spasms and bruises, diseases of the skin, &c. In diseases of the feet the carbolic oil or ointment is generally used as a caustic dressing for proud flesh, (excessive granulations) poisoned wounds, the stings of insects or the bites of venomous animals; the acid may be used without being diluted. Where too much acid is accidentally spilt or applied to the skin, oil will check the caustic action. The addition

of glycerine to carbolic lotions will be found useful when used in cases of sore back, cracked heels, &c. As an internal remedy it effectutually eradicates worms, corrects offensive discharges met with in many chronic diseases, such as fistulas, withers, quilters, caries of bones, &c. As a disinfectant and deodoriser it stands unequalled, and one of the best plans for fumigating stables, is to evaporate the commercial acid by placing it in a jar and applying a spirit lamp, or pouring it on a hot brick, taking care not to ignite the acid. It is now generally used in England, to disinfect stables, cowhouses, drains, &c: and towels saturated with the solution are hung in front of animals suffering from contagious diseases, such as pluero, it said with good effect; also sawdust saturated with the solution is spread over the floors, &c. In India it is extensively used as a disinfectant, and medicinally as a dressing for unhealthy wounds, sores, and skin diseases, which are very common there ; also in the foot and mouth disease, and rinderpest internally with apparent benefit in checking, if not curing, the disease, when taken at an early stage. I don’t mean to say that carbolic acid will cure all diseases, but from its powerful disinfecting properties and poisonous action on insect life, it does good service in all those diseases where blood-poisons are concerned. Recent researches tend to show that high cultivation and excessive stimulation of the vegetable food of animals has its counter effect in introducing into their bodies the germinal ova of entozoa, which become developed and deposited in vital organs, exciting disease and producing fatal terminations. In such cases the beneficial action of carbolic acid is apparent, and as it becomes better known it will be more generally used for many purposes. In a country like Australia where valuable stock are scattered over thousands of miles, and advice cannot be readily obtained, carbolic acid has proved itself a useful remedy, and stockowners and farmers will find it to their advantage to use it in preference to the various compounds of vitriol and oil for external use, sold at high prices and under attractive names.

Fruit and other trees, purchased from nurserymen at a distance, and therefore keep a long time out of the ground are often shrivelled and apparently worthless when they reach the home of the purchaser. In such a case bury them root and branch in the ground for a few days or a week for planting. For diarrhoea in pigs, sometimes called hog cholera, give one part of slaked lime to three parts of soft soap. Mix it in their food. Ifc is not a new remedy, but a very effectual one. Good corn land will produce good sorghum or planter’s friend. From two to three quarts of sorgum seed will plant an acre. Those who have had experience in other countries say that sorghum will do better planted on ridges than in furrows or drills. Whether this rule will hold good in Australia,must depend very much on the season. In wet seasons, such as we have lately had, fui’row planting would doubtless be best; but in ordinary seasons it is very questionable if such would be the case.

Coal ashes and clay, are beneficial for hogs, when shut up to fatten. Hogs are very fond of cinders, coal, ashes, and clay, and improve in condition by eating a certain portion of them every day. Some persons are unable, to account for this singular prospensity in swine. Poultry are very fond of egg shells, lime, sand, &c., and it is well known the substances are necessary in order to form the shells of eggs, and to furnish material for the bones of fowls. Now it is reasonable to suppose that swine eat ashes and cinders for the purpose of supplying material for their bones, and this singular instinct in animals so low in the scale of intelligence, is truly wonderful, for ashes contain the ingredients which are necessary to form bones, viz., clay, silica, gelatinised and made soluble by the fire. When hogs are at large, they take in clay and silica, coal, cinders soft limestone, and rotten wood, &c., with their food, which contains the necessary ingredients ; but when they are pent up they endeavor to supply the material necesary for keeping up their frames by devouring ashes and cinders. Let them have plenty of them.—“ Farming Journal.”

Hints to Wool Exporters.— Mr D. Cooper, wool-broker, in a circular to woolgrowers, has the following remarks upon what he had noticed in the wool warehouses in London : —I saw much fine wool injured in appearance from having been stowed on board ship against greasy wool, the bales having the appearance of hot grease having been poured upon them, and the packs have to be allowed at 12 or 131bs tare, instead of 10 or 1 libs; some of the best wool I saw in this condition and it must injure the sale, and cause loss to an innocent person, for the owner of clean wool is not necessarily the owner of the greasy wool, and this accounts for what otherwise I could not understand, as parties sending home clean wool have complained to me that 12 or 13bls were deducted as tare in their account sales. I noticed much injury done to bales with iron hoops, which stained the cases and rotted the material, so as to cause the stain to extend inside to the wool, especially if a little salt water happened to have touched the bale. Some bales, stained in this way from iron rust and salt water, looked very bad, and the owner must have suffered much iu pocket from the unmerchantable appearance of the bales. These are subjects which the Chambers of Commerce in the various colonies, as well as the wool growers ought to take up. No bale should be shipped with iron hoops round it, and greasy ought not to be stowed against washed wool, especially those that are scoured and of fine quality.