CHATHAM ISLANDS.

New Zealand Colonist and Port Nicholson Advertiser, Issue 105, 1 August 1843, Page 4

CHATHAM ISLANDS.

(From the Auckland Chronicle] We have been kindly favored by Mr.. Sutton with an account of his trip from Port Nicholson to the Chatham Islands. We now publish it for the information of our readers.

“ An opportunity presenting itself, by the sailing of the schooner Hannah from Port Nicholson to the Chatham Islands, I availed myself of it, for the purpose of visiting the entire group, of which, comparatively, so little, is known; no regular communication having yet been established between them and Port Nic„, -and few vessels (with the exception cf chance American whalers putting in for provisions) resorting thither for the staple articles of New Zealand trade, viz., pork and potatoes. After a rather . boisterous passage of a. week, we arrived at Wangaroa, >the principal, or rather the only harbour in the largest island (Ware Kauri), situated on the northern side of Petre Bay. This harbour may be entered without danger at all times, there being atapleroora for beating into it, and it affords safe .and commodious anchorage for vessels of 300 or 400 tons. It is, however, small, being barely half-a-mile in depth, and about the same in width. The upper end of the bay affords the best anchorage; the bottom being composed of -sand, and mud; Large masses of kelp extend, neatly half across the harbour, which are dissipated .by a strong northerly wind; accumulating again on the return of south and south-west gales, which blow with great violence. American Whalers generally anchor off Waitangi, in Petre Bay, but are obliged to use their strongest ground-tackle, the sea rising with very great rapidity, and running with a tremendous surf, breaking at two miles distance from the long -sandy beach which extends for more than' twenty miles along the bottom of the bay. In-; deed no small vessel can anchor, with any de-' gree of safety, in the bay during a westerly * wind. A schooner of about 80 tons was some ■ time since torn from her anchorage, and now lies high and dry on the beach. Wangaroa harbour itself presents no inducements to mas-' tefs of vessels, except its safe anchorage. Situated on the most barren part of the island, wood and water are equally difficult to obtain •and there are but few native residents. It is,' besides, a considerable distance from any of the European settlements. The country around is exceedingly barren, the soil consisting either of a tenacious red clay, or of peat, sodden with’ the heavy rains, and bearing nothing but low’ fern, stunted Manuka, and a very inferior description of the flax plant. From Wangaroa to Mimgartui, which is a Maori settlement on'the north coast, is a distance of about six miles' over a tolerably level country of a similar nature’ —presenting no variety. Mount Dieffenbach, which is the most elevated hill on the road, is about mid-way on the path, and from its sumniit, an extensive view of the surrounding country may be obtained.

On arriving at Manganui, I. was surprised at finding the character of the country totally Changed; the soil was of the richest nature, I well watered, and a large belt of forest land, consisting chiefly of the Karaka, extended from the beach to at least three-quarters of a mile inland. The natives had excellent gardens, and their potatoe-grounds equalled, if not exceeded, both in extent and culture, any that I had seen in New Zealand. An American, of. the name of Horton, had erected a comfortable house, cleared several acres, fenced it in, was making a capital garden, and being on the most amicable terms with the natives, had .contrived to obtain possession of the best spot of land on this portion of the island. Taking leave of Mr. -Horton, by whom I was treated with great hospitality and kindness, I proceeded on my journey to Wai Keri, the most eastern point of the island, occupied by the' Ration of Mr. Wm. M'Ciutehie,, who, hearing pf my arrival, had kindly sent me an invitation to make his house ray home during my stay at the Chathams. .

The north coast of th<3 islantj,

five miles, presents a succession of long soft sartdy beaches, terminated by precipitous headlands, of which the “ Red Bluff” is the most conspicuous, affording no anchorage for vessels, arid but few places at which a boat can land; a lofig continuous line of heavy surf breaking from edd to end on'the beach, and the rocky points inaccessible.';

Pursuing;my route along the beach, I occasionally walked a few miles into the interior. A I belt of Karaka land extends the whole distance, cblnmencing a few hundred yards from the sea, and. varying from a quarter of a mile to two tniles in depth. Numerous Maori settlements occur,, and the potatoe grounds are of great extent. The forest land is easily cleared, there bdlng little underwood, and the roots of the tr§es penetrating but a small distance into the ground. The soil itself consists of a rich black I itiould of vegetable formation, and of excellent quality. Passing the forest land, I found myself in a tolerably level country, consisting generally of low flax fields, exceedingly moist, afld in which were numerous small lagoons, of no great depth. These apparently are formed by the turf being fired by the natives, which I continue to burn downwards, and extends by degrees until a large deep pit is formed* which becomes filled with, rain water, communicating gradually with other pools, thus in time forming a lagoon. The largest, or, as it is called, the w Big lagoon,” occupies about one-fourth of the area of the island, and contains, according to a computation made by Dr. Dieffenbach, upwards of thirty thousand acres. It is, however, not deep, and a large outlet has lately been made by its waters into the centre of Hanson’s Bay, by which its depth has been materially demanded. Prom these lagoons the natives procure .immense quantities of eels, and wild fowl, which form their principal article of food. At all the settlements along the coast the natives are 'strict missionaries, so much so, that they will ;not allow any person to enter their pahs without previously .ascertaining that he has no spirits about him. The margin of the Big Lagoon is covered with .large masses of limestone, containing a considerable portion of sand, but which, when burnt, is admirably adapted to building purposes. The surrounding land is variable in quality; in some places presenting ■a deep, fertile soil; in others, consisting of a hard red clay, and peat ground, growing only the worst description of flax, and exceedingly -Wfet. In fact, on the north coast, the best ground for cultivation is the long and deep belt ■of Karakr forest, in which the land is invariably ■excellent.

Arriving at the termination of the fiftten mile beach, as it is termed, I entered a deep forest •of Karaka and Watai trees growing in the greatest luxuriance. There was, however, little; ;or no underwood, and I could almost imagine; •niyself travelling in the open woody country of* New South Wales. The grasg reached up to* my middle, and. would afford excellent food for; almost any quantity of cattle. Numerous/ springs of pure water cross the path in every,* direction, and the Maori plantations are extend ksive.

A pleasant walk of about six miles from thei northern head brought me to the residence ofq Mr. M'Ciatchie, whose establishment would] •not disgrace an old settler in New South Wales.] His station is at Wai Keri, almost the extreme] point of the eastern extremity of the island, ands ; 'admirably adapted for shore whaling. The] (native name of the place is'Okawao, and it is-] *the principal residence of the Maories, whose] amount to about two hundred and fifty {(besides slaves). Upwards of three hundred] (acres of excellent land is here brought under] Cultivation, and fenced in, contained in a neck] •of land which runs out to the eastward, ter mi-] mated by an island which has been brought into ] iquite an English garden by Mr. M'Ciatchie —] Superabundant, and which has produced every] jdescription of European vegetable, and also] [superior wheat and barley. ]

About six miles Wai Keri, to the north-: ward, is a small harbour called Kaingarou, ■ which would afford excellent anchorage to ; coasting vessels, although impracticable to craft ?of more than 100 tons burthen, the entrance is [intricate from the rocky nature of the banks, but fhere is upwards of three fathoms water : mid-channel, and on obtaining the interior of the basin, a vessel is protected from every wind, and may ride securely. The land in this vicinity of Wai Keri is equal jin richness to any on the island, the plantations lare numerous, large tracts having been fenced ;in by the Maories, and producing wherewith irpot only to feed themselves, but more than. Sufficient for the enormous herds of swine which] [■(hey rear for exportation. ' Having had, during my residence on the] island, opportunities of visiting almost every 1 portion of it, I found it far to exceed my ex-1 jactations, in the natural advantages of which It’is possessed. The land available for ~c inti va«.| fibn, exists in a larger praportion than is gene-Jj Killy to be found even in the fertile districts of Zealand, and the Maories have reclaimed’] arid cultivated patches of very great extent. | ( Altogether the islands are well worth visit-., fng, and when settled and under the protection] gf the,d ;^, r vrijl fprin riiyaluable.addition 1 fo‘.,rii<|j