THE BEAGLE.

New Zealand Colonist and Port Nicholson Advertiser, Volume I, Issue 73, 11 April 1843, Page 4

THE BEAGLE.

(Concluded from our last.J “ The next discovery in succession to the west was that of the Adelaide River, at the north-west part of the Gulf of Van Diemen, similar in character to the Alligator Rivers, which were discovered in the year 1818, falling into the gulf at its southern part. Proceeding farther, another river was found, of more importance as to size, than any previously known in Iritertropical Australia. It was called the ‘ Victoria.’ It extends for about 150 miles to the S.E. by E., and is navigable for vessels of burden for sixty miles from the entrance; its further examination was made by a pedestrian party to the latitude of 15 degrees 36 minutes, and longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes, and was left still flowing from the S.E. This position is about 500 miles from the centre of the continent. The character of the river may better be understood from the following extract from Captain Stokes’ journal; ‘ The valley through which the river passes varies in its nature, from treeless, stony plains, to rich alluvial flats, lightly timbered with a white-stemmed gum. The banks are steep and high, thickly clothed with the acacia, drooping eucalyptus, and tall reed. There was no perceptible stream in the upper reaches; but, if we^may judge from the inclination of the stems of the trees growing in the bed, and heaps of large boulders in the channel of the river, the Victoria, at some recent period, must have been a large and rapid river.’

“ Whilst employed in making observations at Cape Pearce, which forms the north entrance of this river, Capt. Stokes Was treacherously speared by the natives. The wound was a severe one, but assistance being rendered, his life was happily saved. It is a curious coincidence that the three officers whose services as surveyors in the late expedition have been most prominent, viz., Captain Stokes, Mr. A. B. Usborne, master, and Mr. Fitzmaurice, mate, each met with serious wounds in tiie prosecution of their duty, Messrs. Usborne and Fitzmaurice from muskets accidentally exploding : the former Was obliged to invalid in consequence, arid the latter (who, however, has persevered to the last) will be lame for life.

"The rivers Albert and Flinders to the eastward, and that of Victoria to the westward, converge in the direction of their sources apparently to one Common, point—to which also do the intermediate fivers, the Alligators and the Adelaide. It seerfis probable that all 'derive their origin from some large inland marsh dr lake, to which they serve afe drains. It is hot unlikely that there may 1 be a low tract of land between the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the Great Hbrseshoe Swamp, found by 'Mr.; Eyre in the northern part of the province of South AuStralia, • " Vfath respect, however, to the climate of

the country in the neighbourhood Of'the Victoria, thetdmperature, rartgingbetween9sdeg. [and 110 deg,, was foundry the Beagle's officers, in the month of November, to be insufferable, and quite different to that experienced at the Albert, iii the Gulf ,of Carpentaria. It would seem, from Captaip Stokes’' description above inserted, to resemble in character the country about Cambridge Gulf, which has its embouchure to the sea a short distance to the westward.

" The next part of the north-west coast visited by the Beagle was the opening that was supposed to exist at the back of the Buccaneer’s Archipelago. Perhaps no part of the whole coast promised to be of greater interest, and raised hopes of the existence there of a large river, hopes that were justified by the great rise and fall of the tides, which exceeded thirty-six feet. It was, however, found to be but a comparatively unimportant indentation, the eastern part, or Collier’s Bay, being nothing more than a shallow sinuosity of the coast line, and the western part narrowed gradually into a tolerably . extensive sound, terminated by Fitzroy River, which was traced for twenty-five miles in a southerly direction, draining the lowland from and through which it flowed. The opening near Cape Latouche-Treville, which Was thought also to be another outlet of the supposed river, or else the mouth of a second, was an open bay, not affording even sheltered anchorage. The interval between this part and Depuch Island was also explored, but not found to contain any inlet or feature of importance. It is generally a sandy and low sterile coast, fronted by a shoal approach and several sand-banks, the portions ftf Which were ascertained. The Monte-Bello Islands were also correctly and minutely surveyed, as also some rocks in the neighbourhood, which are doubtless the Trial Rocks of former navigators. “ On the west coast, the Houtman’s Abrolhos was also explored and surveyed, together with the coast within it, where the fertile appearance of the coast gave strong indications of the presence of a country favorable for settling. It is here that Governor Grey recommended the Australian Company to establish themselves. Fortunately, however, they had located themselves at the inlet called Port Leschelnault; for they afterwards ascertained that the former would not have suited their wants. Several new anchorages about Rottnest and Gage’s Road, off Swan River, were also examined and surveyed, in which much advantage will be derived by the colonists at Western Australia. “ South Australia has also had the advantage of the Beagle's services, in the survey of the anchorage and port at Adelaide. “ But perhaps the most important, because useful, work performed by the Beagle , has been the detailed survey of Bass’s Strait, which has been just completed by Captain Stokes, with the' aid of the Government of Van Diemen’s Land, which, in the most liberal way, at once acceded to the request of Captain Stokes, by devoting to his services the use of the colonial cutter Vansittart , for the survey of the southern portion of the eastern entrance of the Strait. The command of the vessel was temporarily .given to Mr. C. C. Forsyth, mate of the Beagle.

“ The result of these labours has been the completion of the survey, in which the proper and relative position of the various headlands, capes, and islands, which are so prominent and numerous in the Strait, are laid down; with the tides, soundings, and description of several new anchorages, in a manner that cannot but be of immense importance to the commercial interests of the colony. Much important information relative to the entrance of Port Dalrymple, as well as that of Port Phillip and the channel within it, the approaches to and anchorages to the southward of Corner Inlet, have also been furpished by the operations of the Beagle during tjlis important survey. Much labour and personal exertion have been bestowed upon this work, and too much praise cannot be given to those who have been prominent therein. It ffiay be, however, necessary to say that it was commenced by Captain Wickham, and completed by Captain Stokes.

" This, however, would not have been the last work which the Beagle would have performed for the colony, but for obstacles which unexpectedly presented themselves, and prevented Captain Stokes from making a. survey of the neighbouring coasts of Port. Jackson. The necessity for a chart of the coast is very urgent, from discrepancies which have been found to exist in the only chart now in use, and the principal materials for it have been from time to time prepared as the Beagle passed up and down the coast. It is to be lamented that this desirable matter could not have been accomplished. " It is unnecessary to follow the Beagle with more ddtkil through her various movements up6n the lbfig and tedious service updo which she h&» been employed. Suffice it to say, that the fruit of her Voy%e has been of the greatest impbrtanbe to the navigation oU the coasts, which will be amply proved when the charts of hCr voyage, particularly that of Bass’s Straits, are published and placed within the reach of navigators, by s whom alone, from' the unpretending mdnner in which the Wb'rk' haS bebn perforated, it Can be estimated &s it deserves.