MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

New Zealand Colonist and Port Nicholson Advertiser, Volume I, Issue 10, 2 September 1842, Page 4

MR. SUTTON’S JOURNAL.

(Continued.)

of the heat and smoke of the small hut in which we were sleeping, I got out and pro- “ ceeded to a bathing place, which had been excavated in the solid rock to a depth of two feet, into which both a cold and a hot spring were emptying themselves. I found the temperature of the water so delightful, that I composed myself to sleep,, and remained there until the morning,. when I awoke, and found myself none the worse for my long bath. The natives were very careful in cautioning me against immersing my head, but I am not aware that bad effects would be produced by so doing. I was surprised at the extreme buoyancy of the water, my body sinking but very little beneath the surface. I breakfasted next morning on potatoes and pork cooked in one of the springs. The former were excellent, but the latter had a sulphurous taste, slightly disagreeable. Parting from Mr, Shepherd and Te Pahi, who gave me letters to Chiefs at Taupo, Rotoawa and Wanganui, I proceeded on my journey up the river towards the lake. The country presented little variety, but began to assume a more level, appearance. I landed at several places, preferring to walk in lieu of sitting cramped up in a small canoe. The ground seemed generally of a barren nature, composed generally of pumice stone and decomposed lava. In many places, however, were patches of better soil, which hac formerly been under cultivation, but are now deserted. About two miles from the station I had left in the morning, the hot springs ceased, and I fell in no man until I reached Taupo. After a lonesome “paddle” of four or five miles, I arrived at the entrance of the lake. The river is here about thirty or forty yards broad, and very shallow, the banks consisting of light yellow sand mixed with pumice stone. On either side is a small native settlement, deserted at this season by its inhabitants, who had retired into the interior, to a station belonging to Te Pahi. The view of the lake at its entrance is exceedingly picturesque. The west banks are bounded by high and precipitous hills, rising one behind the other into the Wa-Naki-Naki range, which is distant about eighteen or twenty miles. To the south, is a lofty range of mountains, of a pyramidal form, the tops of which were covered with snow, and forming a branch of the range of which Ruapaha and Tongarido from the south-western termination. Their distance from the northern extremity of the lake appeared to be from twenty-five to thirty miles. The north-eastern banks presented, for a distance of eight or nine miles, a desolate view, being a dead flat for some miles, composed entirely of pumice stone, and presenting no appearance of vegetation. Its features at the end of that distance gradually assume a better character, the land rising into small hillocks, thickly covered with short fern. Entering a narrow creek, which, forming a passage through a neck of land about a quarter of a mile wide, upon which is a large house built for a missionary church, at which Mr. Chapman, resident at Rotorua, occasionally attends, we arrived at a settlement composed of wretched huts. Tired and miserably wet as I was, I was glad to get into any place of shelter; but the natives, seeing that I was not perfectly comfortable, vacated the largest house in the pa, and insisted on my occupying it. The cultivation grounds at this settlement are veiy extensive and fertile, extending in patches to a distance of two or three miles along the banks. I paid a visit to the “ King of Taupo,” who possesses a cabin in no way superior to the poorest of his subjects. He was a very old man, and appeared delighted on being told that I had known Captain Symonds, who was a great favorite with him. After a hearty meal, which he pressed upon me, I visited the potatoe grounds ; and ascending a hill of considerable elevation, obtained a tolerable view of the lake, of the extent of which I was, however, unable to form any correct idea from the intervening hills. At night, tired as I was, I could obtain but little rest, from the innumerable small inhabitants with which the place was swarming. I started off early the next morning in a canoe, the steepness of the banks rendering walking very fatiguing. Coasting about twelve miles of the east side, we arrived at a most beautiful settle,ment. A large flat, extending about a mile along the water’s edge, and running the same distance back, was occupied by numerous small houses, built under the shade of some enormous karaka trees, resembling, in shape and foliage, the English walnut. The whole of the land was under cultivation, and produced large quantities of potatoes, kumeras, melons, &c., of a very fine description. On walking to the back of the village, I came upon a very beautiful waterfall, of no great body, but having a perpendicular descent of . about one hundred and fifty feet, and falling into a small rocky basin, out of which ran a stream by which the village was supplied. I mentioned to some of the inhabitants my intention of walking to Wanganui, on learning which, to my great surprise, they refused to accept any payment for the provisions which they had furnished me. Indeed, I may here remark, that the inhabitants of all the pas at Lake Taupo acted in the same way, at the

surge time telling me that I should find at R'otoaira, a tribe who would endeavour to fleece me of any thing which they could lay their hands on; my after experience proved the truth of their assertions. Leaving this beautiful spot, we started in a small canoe, and having the wind in our favour, sailed slowly along the eastern side of the lake. The banks were precipitous, and at points where the soil was visible, appeared to consist of a deep red clay and sandstone. The hills were very thickly wooded, and at intervals large patches of fern land made their appearance. After a pleasant sail of about twelve miles, we arrived at a pa situate on a long narrow tongue of land. I delivered my letter from Te Pahi to the principal chief, who was a relation of his, from whom I received the greatest kindness and hospitality.

(To be continued .)