ALPINE CLIMBING

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume LXIV, 5 January 1931, Page 8

ALPINE CLIMBING

' MOUNT COOK REGION FOUR NOTABLE ACHIEVEMENTS Zest was added to the New Year celebrations at Mount Cook by the nows of four noteworthy climbs —those of Malte Brun, Cook, Hardinger, and the Footstool, reports the “Press.” On 28th December, Mount Malte Brun (10,421 ft) was climbed by Mr A. J. Scott, of Christchurch, accompanied by Guide Vic. Williams. This peak, which is known as the Matterhorn of New Zealand, is said to be the finest rock peak in the Southern Hemisphere. Owing to the uncertainty of the weather the party did not leave the Malte Brun Hut until 4.45 a.m., but by following the usual route up the western arete they attained the summit at 11.15 a.m. By that time a high wind was blowing and the crossing of the dreaded Cheval ridge, on the descent, was thus rendered even more difficult than usual. This ridge is so sharp that it can be crossed only astride, the precipices falling sheer on either side for over four thousand feet, and putting the strongest nerves to a severe test even under the most favourable conditions. Mr Scott and his guide reached the hut on their return at 6.40 p.m., having accomplished the climbing under fourteen hours.

The day after this ascent, Mount Cook (12,493 ft) was climbed by the second party this season, this, time by Mr Noel Thompson, of Levin, with Guide Lud Mahan. The weather was perfect and from the Haast Hut to the summit via the Linda glacier the going was reasonably good. By the time the mountaineers reached the Summit rocks, on the descent, the sun had nielted the snow and the icicles which had formed made the rocks very difficult to negotiate. The snow on the Linda had softened considerably, with the result that the party had twenty-two l hours’ hard work on the Giant of the Alps, before they returned to their base. While the slopes of Mount .Cook were resisting invasion, Mount Harbinger (10,059 ft) was being assaulted by Messrs Bod Syme, and L. S. Mace, of Hawera, and Gordon Mace, of Wellington. Starting from the Haast Hut at 1.45 a.m., these alpinists also fared well on the upward journey, but they, too, were troubled on the downward route by the extremely soft snow. It was sixteen hours before they were back again, “With the peak in their pocket,” as a famous Swiss guide used to say.

On New Year’s Eve came the news of the ascent of the Footstool (9073 ft), with the return of the climbers—l)r, F. W. McDowall, of Palmerston North, and Guide Alf. Brustad. This party had been held up by bad weather for a few days previously, but they finally attained their goal after a most interesting climb under glorious weather conditions. As is usual with a very hot sun the snow was slushy and avalanched frequently. The number of crevasses in the glacier made it necessary to follow the rock ridge a long way before crossing to the Main Divide. Crampons were used on the snow, leading to the summit, but they were scarcely required. The party returned to the Sefton Biv. ouac and made direct for the Hermitage that night.