GARDEN & FIELD

Manawatu Times, Volume 62, Issue 22, 27 January 1937, Page 7

GARDEN & FIELD

(Specially written for the “Manawatu Daily Times" by “Lorna,")

Colour in the Borders Where heavy winds have not penetrated over much, the dahlias are making a glorious display and in these same sheltered sj>ots the cannas in all tlieir wonderful colours arrest the eye. These are indispensible for adding colour and beauty to the summer garden and their tropical appearance is in keeping with the hot summer days usually experienced at their blooming season. Double and single tiger lilies, tall, and stately, are giving effective splashes of orange. The blue of the agapanthus is very welcome brightening up the waste places of the garden, their roots are far too hungry to grow in the herbaceous border, but in most gardens there'are usually places where their presence is very welcome. Tritomas (hot pokers) are at present presenting a remarkably gay appearance, their numerous spikes and vivid colouring having caused them to be called torch lilies. Lilium auratum is just commencing to unfold its fragrant petals. Roses are still gaily blooming. Hydrangeas are quite a feature of tho early autumn garden, and nothing can quite equal these useful plants for lengthy display and showers. The modern varieties have so much more depth of colour, together with much larger individual blooms that they are now of greater value than ever and no garden should bo without a few plants. Many annuals are now flowering, godetias, linums, petunias, nemesias, antirikinums, etc., all of which brighten the garden immensely. The dainty gypsophila is welcome, together with the tall mauve spikes of thaliethrum. Pentstemons too, are among the “joys of the autumn garden giving a long display of bright spikes. The hemerscallis family (day lilies) are to the fore with their bright trumpetshaped blooms in tones of yellow, bronze, and orange. Calla lilies too, in rich buttery yellow, and handsome green leaves spotted With. white, truly handsome these are and worthy a place in every, garden. Spikes of gladioli still continue to grace the borders. Routine Work in the Borders. Prepare trenches for sweet peas, also beds for exhibition bulbs. Sow winter flowering sweet peas in sunny well sheltered places. Sow seed of Iceland poppies for early blooming. Sow seed of wallflower, preruula, and all other needful things for refilling the borders in the late autumn. Keep the dahlias and chrysanthemums well staked as the weather is so uncertain, and growths unusually brittle. Strike cuttings of roses and carnations. Where any plants are troubled with rust spray with arsenate of lead solution. Prune climbing roses, and tidy up the garden generally. Keep all faded flowers plucked from the borders.. Sow all kinds of perennial things. Plant early flowering bulbs such as paper whites, and sol-de-cris. Plant freesias for early blooming. Lift anemones and ranunculi from the borders or they will soon start into active growth again. This is a good time to sow seed of anemone, auricula, cyclamen, polyanthus primroses and ranunculi. Take side shoots from any violas where increased stock is desired.

Strike cuttings of aubrietia for winter bedding. Heleniums and michaelmas daisies are making rapid growth, provide them with stakes, the latter present a very graceful appearance.

If twiggy growths are placed among them for supports, when their spreading beauty is displayed to advantage. Salvias and zinnias are very backward also celesois, they are sadly missing the warmth necessary to their well being. On light soils they may be making more headway. Watch plants closely where seed is needed as they have a habit of popping open unexpectedly. The Vegetable Garden

Potato blight is very prevalent, and where these are badly infected, dig them as quickly as possible burning all tho tops. The ground may be dug over and filled with winter greens, or more lettuce, spinach, peas, and beans maybe sown.

Owing to the showery weather even carrots, parsnips, beetroot, etc., may be transplanted. Between rows of recent-

ly planted greens, a row of lettuce or spinach may be sown. Much more may be taken from the plots if these little details are studied out.

Pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers are not making very rapid headway, the ground is only warm on the immediate surface, as there has not been sufficient hot -weather to warm the soil very far down.

The weather however is very suitable for all tho brassica family, and a good supply will be appreciated during tho winter months and early spring. A few kale plants too, are a great standby for cutting and coming again. Transplant onions if any are available, also, there is still time to mature a potato crop owing to the unusual season. Weeds continue to grow luxuriantly, making a habit of putting them in a heap for returning to the soil at a later date.

Plant celery and leeks. Spray the tomatoes at least every fortnight for checking blight with arsenate of lead solution, unless warmer weather comes soon, these will prove very late in ripening. Beds of strawberries may be planted, enabling them to grow into nice clumps for next seasons fruiting, These need deeply dug soil. Planning and Preparing for Vegetable Crops. It is always better before sowing or planting vegetables to, consider those it is most essential to grow and to make plans and prepare ground accordingly. Some months beforehand, if possible ground should be dug over, thus giving time for the surface to sweeten, and in the case of dirty land, to cope -with the numerous seedling weeds that appear <

Regarding manures, there is nothmg quite so good as farmyard or stable manure for supplying humus and nutriment to the soil, if this is not available resource must be had to decayed vegetable refuse and artificial manures. Always make full use of any rough grass that may be to hand, burning on tho garden plots what is discarded as not being suitable for putting in the trench. Where rubbish fires have been, tho growth is noticeably good. Lawn clippings in a half rotted state are useful for digging in. All weeds should be saved for this purpose by those who are unable to get supplies of animal manure. In making a plan, it should be borne in mind that for root crops such as carrots, beetroot, parsnips, etc., nothing further in the way of manure will be needed than that applied to the ground last year. Hence on quarters known to have been manured previously for peas, beans, potatoes, etc., some portion should be set aside for root crops, and the soil well dug and left rough so that it will be in. a light crumbly, condition for sowing. Further, it is disirable not to make use of ground for two seasons running, for crops like peas, runner beans and cabbages, etc.

If it is known that the soil is deficient in lime, ground where peas are to be sown must have special preparation as peas are great lovers of lime. If a limited supply of animal manure is available reserve it for those crops which need it most, such as spinach, lettuce, leeks and onions, all of which need rich food. Layering Rhododendrons Root cuttings of rhododendrons simply by removing them from the bushes with a knife is a very difficult and slow process, almost invariably attended by failure. No matter how careful they are planted or how suitable the soil may be, their wood is so hard and tough in texture that a cutting removed from the parent bush will very rarely be induced to form roots in time to save the life of the cutting. However, treating these as one does carnations, good results can be produced in a comparatively short time, and, in tho case of good varieties, which are always rather expensive, a stock of young plants may be got by this method.

The procedure is as follows. Select as many of the strongest shoots as may be required for rooting purposes from the branches growing nearest to the soil level. If not too high up, they may be bent down towards the ground, taking care not to break them, and kept m place by strong pegs having a hook round the branch and pushing the other, end into the ground. Then remove some of the leaves about a foot from the tips of the shoots selected, where the wood is not too hard, and make a cut with a sharp knife on the under side, about three inches long, thus spilling the stem to form a tongue. A cavity should then be formed in the ground, about four inches deep directly underneath tho shoot, and filled with sandy compost, the tongue of the shoot on which roots are formed being pulled open and pushed down into this, and kept in place by a small peg, placing a little of the compost on top also. Shoots which are too far from the 6oil level may bo rooted by filling fairly deep boxes with the compost, ot these may be raised still higher by placing an empty box underneath them. Rooting generally takes place In about three months. The young layers should on no account be cut away from the parent bush until it is certain that roots have formed. This may be ascertained by gently scratching away some of the soil with the finger until roots are seen. When rooted, they may be cut away from tho parent bush and planted in their permanent quarters in lime free soil. Layering may be done at almost any time of the year, except when the bushes are in flower. Annuals for Winter Blooming For those who have any glassed in structures there are many annuals which can be sown during February March which will brighten the wintry months. Among these which do well under glass are cinerarias, primulas, schizanthus, clarkias, mignonette, alonsoa, French and African marigolds, Canterbury bells, etc.

Bulbs for early blooming may be potted too. Irises are ideal for forcing. Plants of abutilon give flowers during the winter and make good pot plants. Celosias are very gay too, and the feathery spikes keep in good condition over a long period brightening the short wintry days.