PICTURESQUE KABUL

Hokitika Guardian, 27 April 1929, Page 8

PICTURESQUE KABUL

A vivid description of Kabul, at the Imine-eoming of King Amaimllali irom hi.s Kiimpean tour, is given by Air Jackson Fleming, who flew to the Afghan capital last summer, in good Lime to witness the' festivities, in the current issue of “Asia.”

“Apart from its sentinels and regiments of mountains, Kabul did not seem an attractive city, with its squat mulberry and rain trees— its dusty little streets, its shallow, muddy river, and its general aspect of parched and wrinkled age essaying a smile.; “Kaoul was not attractive, hut the people interesterd, me greatly, especially the visiting tribesmen. These race-proud mountaineers long ago conceived a proud contempt for Kabul, whatever the origin of its old title, ‘Brigands’ Paradise.’ The tribesmen speak of tire Kabul people as a mongrel lot, mixed descendants ol a mi rating hordes and armies, and especially of the camp-followers, and such, who were considered unfit for either a campaign in India or the arduous return marches north and west. So ‘Kabul’ is now a stinging epithet. Nevertheless, tiie tribesmen flock to the capital bv hundreds and thousands

“ft was fascinating to watch these visitors seeing the sights ol the city. They seemed the most liiilitantly selfrespecting country gentlemen that f have found the world over, their typical Tiianner, that of careful stepping hair-trigger defiance. Their dress was generally baggy white pantaloons, and overblou.se, coloured waistcoat, and often coloured sash, turban, and curledup shoes. If they had travelled some distance, or were remailing overnight, they were: likely to have, slung over one shoulder, the bright lungi or heavy scarf, which served as a wrap mornings and evenings, and in sleep. Though they were required to check their rilles and knives when entering Kabul, <»ccnsionallv I. saw a group who had got by with their rifles still on their hacks. “j saw few women in the Kabul ha-' znar. these few were shrouded from crown to feet in the long eliadnr, with a slight perforation for the eyes.

Black, grey, and light hi no were the prevailing colours of these over-gar-ments. an occasional yellow one denoting a Hindu women. I later saw many unveiled nomad and peasant women, and thought some of the peasants were pretty. Also, I saw a few women ol the official class, unveiled in the isolated summer capital, Paglunan, where an emancipation movement had just been started under the patronage of Queen and King Amtanullah. “Aly first long walk about Kabul was with Amir Khan, a young AA’nzari tribesman, who had been educated in one of tiie new Government schools, and was now teaching in the same school, and in others. Generally speaking. T was told that the schoolboys aaorctl their King and his .‘progress.■ Cm.' of his chief delights was to visit Hie schools, and make inspiring talks to the boys.

“Oil. yes.’ said Amir Klian, ‘our present King is a strong man. and a modern ruler besides. ■’ And he has only one wife, although his father and PH grandfather each had about three hundred wives.”

“I’reseiit-day Kabul is not a hundred years-old. The British completely destroyed the city in 18-12 as part punishment for the annihilation of a Hritish army. The Afghans resolved n-ot to rebuild on the old site, though t.,e present city is contiguous there-to. Old Kabul nestled close beneath the citadel heights ol Bala Hissar. Undoubtedly the former city was more picturesque than is the Kabul ol today. It was a walled city of seven gates, and it had a famous bazaar with roofed arcades, which, in the evenings were eiicliaiitingly illuminated.

"Oar m 1 Amnn was one of tlie King’s ideas which lied taken a substantial form. The place was only five miles from Kabul beyond a mountain gap. K.mcpt for the thousands of turbans circulating wonderingly, I found myself at the centre of an ultra-modern park city in the making. .Just ahead, on a slight eminence, was a massive and satisfying structure of hrick and concrete nearing completion—the Par liament building. The landscaping around the building caused me to gasp again— shrubbery and flower beds beautifully planned, and one of the finest and largest rose gardens that I have ever seen anywhere. A halfmile hack, and near the mountains, was the new palace, its style acceptably in key with the central building. The Afghans seemed deeply proud of Dar al A ma ».

“Meanwhile. Kabul was abustlc with populations for flic three-day festival that was to mark the return of Anmuulhih from Europe; doors and windows were being painted a vivid green; silks and velvets, brocades, ombrr id cries and rugs were being tacked up on innumerable shop-fronts; flags and pennants were strung along proiuse!v.”