Untitled

Hokitika Guardian, 29 April 1926, Page 2

A recent publication “ The Fight for Mount Everest, 1921,” by Lieutenant Colonel E. E. Norton, and other members of the expedition, is the third volume of a series, of which the first described the preliminary reconnaissance of 1921. and the second the attempt made the following year. On that occasion Captain Bruce and Captain Finch climbed to within less than 2000 feet of the summit. But a final endeavour to reach it resulted in disaster; seven native porters lost their lives in nn avalanche. The third volume is the record of a splendid failure, although there is some doubt whether

“ failure ” is the correct term. George Leigh Mallory and Andrew Irvine set out upon their dash to the peak. From a crag 26,000 feet above the sea level Mr N. E. Odell had a momentary, glimpse of them. A sudden clearing in f the mist revealed the cap of the mountain. Far away on the snow slope leadl in,g up to the final pyramid Mr Odell I discerned a tiny object moving upwards about POO feet from the top, and a second following. Then the cloud , closed over them. Never again were they seen. Mr Odell mentions that they wore considerably behind their schedule. His theory is that they achieved their goal, but on their way hack, were overtaken by night, and, unable to find their camp in the darkness, perished from exposure. He gives various reasons in support of this view, the most cogent of which is that both were men of indomitable spirit and endurance. His conclusion is that while there is no direct evidence on the point, the probability is that the pair succeeded. Colonel Norton, on the other hand, thinks that they were killed by falling from the rock. In the neighbourhood where Air Odell saw them “ a serious slip for one of a roped party of two might well spell destruction for both.” However they met their death, he continues, the question whether they reached the top before it occurred can never he settled until, some day, perhaps, a successful expedition discovers there some sign which will prove that it had heen fore- • stalled. Several contributors discuss I the advantages of otherwise of the use 1 of oxygen, concensus of opinion

seems to be that the relief it gives to tho climber is largely neutralised by the burden of the apparatus which has to be carried, and weighs almost 30 pounds. Colonel Norton is confident that, with tho experience gained in 1922 and 1924, Everest will eventually bo conquered. The last stage is comparatively easy going. Mallory and Irvine, when seen by Mr Odell, had already surmounted the principal physical difficulties. The most formidable enemy is the weather, which in the summer of 1924 was exceptionally bad. But is the feat worth accomplishing?

Is the world any the richer for these sacrifices of lives and money ? To this question Sir Francis Younghusband replies in the introduction. lie enumerates the scientific fruits which theso attempts have yielded. They have taught us much, notably in regard to the affect of high altitudes upon the body and its capacity for vigorous exertion. Also, he says, these stories of courage and endurance have a moral appeal. They elevate the spirit, they are a source of inspiration and a spur to higher endeavours. The volume is copiously illustrated with reproductions of photographs and of striking sketches in colour of Himalayan landscapes, by Mr If. T. Somervell.