WESTLAND.

Hokitika Guardian, 24 January 1924, Page 4

WESTLAND.

PLACE OF MANY ATTRACTION'S.

A VISIT TO THE GLACIER

(llsuvrTii '‘Stiir'' representative)

Jl nature tins withheld I rum Westland .some* of those gittx v. hic-li other parts of the Dominion <*r.oy. full atonement Inis boon made by her lav-l.-hncxs in other directions. In ronio parts of the country a lalte, tnonn-

ain, 'river, or beach may he the sole

attraction —the oniy resort for the people when in quest of a change. recreation or health-—hut in that areadia, Westland, there is all that the lover of nature could desire*. Mr Julian Grande has said there is no reason why it should not become the playground of the South Island. It may become that, hut such a wonderland is not for the South Island alone. Tts beauties will never diminish, and the means of travel improve, and the scenic resources of Westland are given wider prominence, people will he attracted i.n over-increasing numbers from every part of tiie world. For

one incapable of writing in poetic language or skilled in the painting of word pictures, any attempt to present an adequate idea of the scenery can only end in failure and all that can he done is to give a low impressions and state a few facts which might ho helpful to those who may he disposed to spend a future holiday on the Coast. One is first impressed with the wild profusion of the vegetation, ami the tumbled up country, vhu h suggests nature in an eccentric mood. The traveller is kept in a state of lively expectation with the rapidly-changing scenes, and the interest deepens at every stage of the journey. Many scenes of which the memory will preserve a permanent picture come before the eyes that are amazing, almost startling, in their grandeur. Though tin:* prospect changes with every turn in the road, there is an orderliness, .symmetry. and harmony about everything which banishes scepticism and leaves no room for the thought that blind forces undirected h.v creative power had in some haphazard fashion built upon such a magnificent scale. On one side are the hills, often rising abruptly out of the plain. There is no monotony in the features they present. There will always he new peaks [or alpine climbers to conquer, and there is no telling what may yet he revealed to venturesome people who pursue the truculent rivers along the upper reaches to their source, traverse the country at the wooded base of the mouldains, or push their way into one or other of the numerous ravines. Westland is particularly rich in its lake scenery. Three are seen li'oin the road between llokiiika and 1 he Waiho. including [alithe and 'Mapouriku. Others are concealed by bills or hells of" l i tuber ; and then there are Lake Kanieri. Lake Brunner and l ake Mahinapitu, in the more northern part of the province. These lakes are mil glorified lagoons. But immense sheds of water encircled by forest-clad hills, the vegetation coming right down to the water's edge. 11l the •Til' dull* waters on a calm day the siirouudings are reflected as in a mirror. Any one of those lakes, if within a day's journey of a thiekly-popuhitod centre, would develop into a great holiday resort, hut at present, beyond eontrihut iug to the pleasure of passing tourists, they serve no purpose. No dwelling appears on the banks, there is no boat upon the waters, and only a stray sportsman visits the locality. Maptninku is visited by holiday-inaker:* to omc extent, and arrangements me non being mad* for motor trips from 'he Waiho tor those who an* making more than a day's stay. The Minuets (> m ilu* roast prorfu' v rDVcU. a!ul at f «vrtain sea-.on of I lie year tlw working nut of delightful toiutu" .--'.hemes which do not lwrmit ot veuipaTuon or description may ’ -ten nightly. A great error Kvot!.. v itli regard to the We,! Goa i climate. hu h many people Iw!lew to he * on.*otent qv had. If does ram' with some t Itnroughucsthere at times, and all seasons of the vein* may lie experienced in a single dav. It may he alternately wet and fine during the day, hut when the sun gomes out and dissipates the clouds the conditions arc perfect. No skies are bluer, no atmosphere clearer, than on the West Coast, which enjoys a very fair share oi sunshine. "When the writer visited the glacier the ’bus started in a heavy downpour of rain, with little apparent prospect of it clearing. Imf after five miles had been covered the rain ceased, and by the time Ross was reached it was so dofinitty fine that the hood was taken down and did not have.to be replaced. The night was clear with a crisp, bracing atmosphere, but the following morning torrential train fell. This did not deter a large party from visiting the glacier, and though protection had to he sought under the trees on the journey, h.v the time the glacier was reached the sun had hurst through the clouds, and the great sight of South Westland was viewed under particularly favourable conditions. T he glacier is tin impressive sight. Air L. A. Bone well described it in likening it to a mighty mountain torrent suddenly frozen in its course as it rushed down through the narrow gorge. It lias features which distinguish it from other glaciers in the world—its nearness to the sea. the low altitude to which it descends (about* (500 feet above son level), and there is the singular fact also that it is not perceptibly wasting away. At times it recedes and at others advances. Its length is about eight miles and its width about half a mile. The ice is not tarnished, and the light produces beautiful colourings in varying shades of blue and green in the crevasses nr fissures. The ascent was a little difficult at Christmas owing to the loose moraine covering the front of the ice. The party only traversed a couple of hundred yards, the day lining too unfavourable to venture further. The muddy river flowing from a cavern in the ice was a coldfierce looking stream, and the visitors amused themselves for a time watching it toying with huge blocks of ice and carrying them down stream. Above the river the ice rose perpendicularly about 200 feet. Parallel with the lower part of the glacier the mountain sides are covered with vegetation. am! Inigo rocks of the dimensions of small hills which stood in front of the glacier told of disturbances on a mighty scale in days gone by. Approaching the glacier on the flat many delicate little flowers grow, both white and coloured, and there is a mountain from which blooms freely. The presence of orchids in secluded places was revealed by the guide, who at all times showed the greatest solicitation for those in his care. It is customary to go to tin' glacier by one path and return by another, and despite warnings from the guide that the road usually taken on the return journey would he under water in many places most of the party were in a venturesome spirit, and were determined to make the most of the opportunities, whatever the physical discomforts might be. Everything turned out well, and beyond damp feet no trouble was encountered. The bush and terns

along the homeward track wore far superior to anything that had previously been seen, and tho track led past the hot springs, and over a surging torrent, which could bo viewed from a string bridge as it rushed from a narrow channel cut in the mountain side about 50 feet below.

Bird life was plentiful. The primn donna of the hush, the tui or parsonbird made its appearance, and its bright musical notes, carrying far into the bush, were frequently heard. The native pigeons were very numerous and surprisingly tame. Often they started up from the road as we approached, or could he seen in the low houghs of trees. Two Ueas visited the hotel. They were not molested and seemed to have no fear. As we were leaving the hotel for Hokitika they were on the road, and taking to their wings quieily ascended, exhibiting the fine colouring of their plumage. Black swans were seen on one of the lakes close to the shore, and the kingfisher and tomtit, both of which arc becoming rarer, appeared occasionally. South Westland, because of its large timbered areas, much of which wilt be seldom, if ever, traversed by man, will always afford a safe sanctuary tor native birds, and though it is said that some people in the far south slaughter the native pigeons wholesale. the extermination, of these and oilier birds is an impossibility. They have many retreats where they will lie safe from molestation. Souih \\ land is regularly visited by a vcllknown naturalist because of the execlent opportunities it affords for studying birds and other life over a wide

range. . , , From surveyors ami others who n.i been* further south, it was ' learned that the scenery greatly improves alter passing the Waiho, and that some magnificent sights can I"-' from the road, which ascends in son," places over -JOtH) feet. A few people journey right through, going over t.n* 1 [aast and coming out at Lake aka > .

The motor service to the glacier iexcellent. Newman's baser! have seatin'' accommodation lor about !'• cl,Ming the driver. They are execedji ndv i ouil’nrtuhle. amt the driver goes at. an easy pare of at •*> "»les hour. This affords a lull opportunity for seeing the scenery. Brief stoppace*. are made ai the hikes and other phn'.c, tli" longest: nue being tor hulf-an-hour at llarihnri I'm* luncheon. The hotel accommodation is the host and the iariti is moderate, only H>s IKM'l KM ' day. The 'bus fare from Hokitika is £5 return, and with the hotel expeus:es, <£wi(l<‘, mountain (.‘limiting equipment. etc., the total cost of the trip can he put down at about £i IBs trolu Hokitika. The mills for ordinary metal are gooil and an discomfort what<■*vov i* cxporioncoil on tlm journey.