Mount Everest Expedition

Hokitika Guardian, 16 June 1921, Page 4

Mount Everest Expedition

DEATH OF DR KELLAS

WELLINGTON, June 13

The cabled news of' the deatli of Dr A. XI. Kellas, who had been selected as one of the members of the preliminary expedition to Mount Everest, would cause great regret amongst members ol the Alpine Club, and of the Royal Geographical Society throughout the Empire. His innumerable Himalayan expeditions were important, for lie was not only a climber, but also a scientist and a keen observer. He used Rhotias as porters, and found they had wonder- s fill powers at altitudes above 22,000 it. Even with light loads they were 30 per cent better than himself with no load at all. Dr Kellas did not travel luxuriously, hut he had a wonderful way with liis men, and made them work haul. His climbs include Choiiiionio 22,-130ft, Pawhunri 23,186 ft, and Kanchenjhau 22,700 ft. The last-named he accomplished on his fourth visit to Sikkim. He had also visited Xanga Parbat, and on one of his journeys to Kamct he reached a height of 23,600 ft.

XX’riling from Darjeeling in February last to Professor J. Norman Collie, president of the Alpine Club, Dr Kellas sent linn a very interesting telephotograph. showing both Xfakaul and Everest. What was of exceptional importance was that the ranges to the north of Everest had been photographed for the first time. The photograph shows clearly the peaks spoken of by Graham about 40 years ago on his ascent of Ka’oru. Doubts were east upon Graham’s ascent, but Longstaff, himself a noted Himalayan climber, has always given Graham credit .for the ascent. “On Graham’s climb Boss and J. think Ivaufmann, who was with Green in New Zealand, were the guides. On the summit of their mountain they saw Everest plainly 80 or 100 miles to the northward, and were astonished to see two other peaks towering up on a second and more distant range. These they nil thought were higher than Everest, but this is doubtful. Not only,” said Dr Kellas, “arc Graham’s peaks shown in the photograph, but there are at least two others unsurveyed above 21,000 ft.”

XI r C. F. Meade, a noted climber, refers to the recent experience of Dr Kellas and Xlajor Morshead, D. 5.0., of the Royal Engineers, on their liighciimbing expedition to Kamct in 1920. He says lie is inclined to revise lus conclusions and to believe he was wrong in rejecting the possibility of acclimatisation at heights of 20,000 feet and over, given perfect snow conditions and easy climbing. He adds: It certainly looks as if mountaineers of such exceptional adaptability to altitude as Kellas and Morshead might conquer Everest without much suffering. Dr Kellas had recently sent a report. to the Oxygen Research Committee of (he Alpine Club, in which there were interesting observations about mountain sickness and acclimatisation at high altitudes. He had hoped this year to make further tests in a camp at about 23,400 feet just below the Kamct saddle. He calculated on the basis of his own experience that.a climbing rate ol between 250 and 350 feet per hour might ho possible for the last thousand Lot of Everest. Neither Kellas nor XL: rslicid felt the slightest need for artificial stimulants in the form either of oxygen or alcohol on their high climbs, and their impression was that they could have gone several thousand feet higher without distress in breathing had other conditions admitted. Captain Finch, who was to be one

of tlio Everest Expedition, was at the last minute declared medically unfit. Mr Kalburn was anxious to get Mr Ling to join him. Ling’s powers of leadership on difficult and arduous expeditions would have been valuable, as would also his scientific knowledge and great skill in mountain photography, but unfortunately he could not spare the seven or eight months necessary to ■ o devoted to suck an expedition. Professor Norman Collie was also unable to go. Finally, Mr J. Bullock was chosen as a member of the expedition.