THE RETURN

Hokitika Guardian, 11 January 1921, Page 4

THE RETURN

AN ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGE HOME.

(Bv Charles Parham, of the N.Z.E.F.)

(Continued.) Driving through the well kept grounds of the Washington Hotel, we could not but admire the ornamental shrubs with varigated leaves of green, yellow, and red, and the hedges of flowering hibuscus. “Shoe Black the nigger driver, called them, tho’ he couldn’t give a reason. It afterwards transpired, however, that the flowers are useful for cleaning boots. Passing through avenues of royal palms, almond trees and papille (pape-yabeing the Spaniah equivalent fo papaw) we passed the tall latticed steel towers of the American Naval Radio Station. By the way. Papaw is. the -Malay name of a tropical fruit, the seeds of which contain “pepsin” which is, as those who suffer from indigestion, will no doubt know, a good digestive. The tree has a straight stem crowned by n Ergo umbrella of leaves, which resemble those of the castor oil plant (which also grows in the vicinity) hut they are more divided up. The fmit grows in clusters in the heart of tin tree, and looks rather like a small greei

pie-melon. Tins driver who c launea i bo ii British subject from the West. In hies, was very hitter against the Yanks Pointing across the Bay to a piece c 'low-lying mud Hat he said, in his quainmixture of broken English and Spanwit, that the Indian inhabitants had been driven away bv the wicked Americanos, as the site was wanted for a submarine base. No doubt they were offered some ,omplonsation, but very likely they were difficult toOiove, like the natives who inhabited the nfrea. inundated by the waters of the Bio Chagrcs, when the (latun Dam was completed. They took no notice of repeated warnings but whet hep from stubbornness, or from inability to comprehend the necessity, it would he difficult to say. At an\

rate, they would not move until the water rose and threatened to drown them. We now drove thro’ Qristobal, which is said to he one of the healthiest spots on tlm Isthmus. It is high and dry. and is covered with hundreds of palm trees, planted in regular rows, whic'.i gives the place a neat appearance. The old Spanish town of Colon has a truly Oriental aspect. The narrow* streets between the high ovcfr-lianging houses are full of strange Eastern (?) smells, or rather “stinks”, from the garbage that lay about no doubt contributed its quota. What a contrast the “spic and span” American quarters made with this quaint tumble-down old place. Here the native children ran about in the sun and dust, wearing, as the sayimr is "nothing more than a smile.” While lean starving dogs prowled round looking for offal to eat. Driving through the poor quarters one gets a pretty good insight into the way in which these miserable people live, i r rather "exist.” In spite of tho good example of cleanliness the Americans have set them (and enforced too in their ow n quarters), they seem to prefer to iiv ( > crowded together in dirt and confusion. The saying *‘C:\num reverstis ad suiim vomitiim,” seems to fit these natives, and just as the pig is supposed to wallow of its own accord, they wi I oil the first opportunity, return to theV oM wav of living, in spite of all the

Americans can do. But for its very squalor, the place has interest. One often sees whole families squatting on the ••sidewalk,” taking the air, or perhaps an old woman sitting on her doorstep, preparing vegetables fofr the next meal, and gossiping with her neighbours. Just as it was the custom iii Tudor England, the store-keepers live above their places of business. In the quarters of the more prosperous inhabitants, the aspect of things was very different. Here the old but well built stone houses were provided with deep cool balconies, ornamented with boxes of gorgeous flowing plants and shaded by creepers, which, forming a screen doubtless enabled the “Spanish beauties,” to watch the passers by without themselves being observed until perhaps (whisper it) the favoured one appeared when he’d be greeted by a flowetr dropped from above (accidentally of course). The “Love poems” in their newspaper forms most amusing reading. Talk about hyperbole, they’ve got the knack without a doubt. They keep up tlijeir old custom of “bull fighting” so no doubt they retain their equally pleasing custom of “Serenadin’’. Driving along the beautiful esplanade, wo passed the residences of the “gold employees” of the T.C.C. as the White officials of the Isthmanian Canal Commission, are called to distinguish them j from the coloured native labourers who'

are called ‘‘silver employees.” As the road was blocked, the black driver turned round and took us back round the T.C.C. Hospital. It is well situated on the beach, facing the Caribbean sea, where it is kept fairly cool by the sea breezes. Coconut palms grew ili along the way (it is said they won’t grow far inland wliffre they can’t get sea water). Away in the distance could he seen the Atlantic entrance to die Canal, and nearer at hand the immense “traveller crane” used for unloading 1.0.0. freight from coastal boats. It is diftijeut for a stranger to make out exactly where he is, for the boundaries are so confusing. Often merely a load marks where lies the border between the Canal zone and the Panamanian Republic. It makes all the difference too, if you happen to after a drink of “something strong.’’ As the driver dolorously told me “Americano » o good at all.” Canal zone gone dry. Panama Republic no good ’cos gringoes say ’You do dis, you do dat, wo must do it. Do same thing when they zny say go dry ; Panama must. No good at all.” Colon is frequently called Aspinwall, and to make matters more contusing the twin city of Cristobal appears to extend in all directions. It is thought that Couinbus landed here. At any rate the name Christobal (or Cristovnl, as the Spaniards spell it) means Christopher and Colon of course signifies Columbus. Acting on this belief the French engineer Do Lesseps erected a large statue of Columbus in Christobal. The greater part of Cristobal is situated on what used to bo a mangrove swamp which separated the island of Colon from the mainland. Driving across a large piece of reclaimed'land, one noticed that it was already divided up into lots with good concrete roads between,

and although there wasn’t a single j house there provision had been made for sewerage, and the water mains weie already laid. This had all been accomplished in about two years.” Guess that the way to hustle things Guy.” Returning to the ship through the town we noticed that the übiquitous Jap was flourishing hero as elsewhere. In fact they seem to form a. very large peicentage of the population, and apparent ]y control the business in curios. It is difficult, perhaps impossible now to get any typical local curiosities. As might be expected the Japs vend the wares of Nippin. Near the wharf in a long concrete building, could be heard *he familiar hum of electric, generators. Passing one of the wide open doors one could see long rows of freight trucks, so one gathered that it was a sub-station where they transformed the current to , the pro]>er voltage for charging the ae- , eumulators of the electric trucks. They look rather like the ordinary motor lori ries, and are used extensively on the wharves, where they greatly facilitate j the handling of freight to and from i the ships, and goods sheds. Edison s patent steel “storage batteries” have I greatly increased the efficiency of this 'j type of electric transport, for they have great adaptability and can he ill-treated J i in a way that would be fatal to orclin- !| ary accumulators. As .for instance, 1 | they can be partially charged during > j the “Off Peak” hours, and then used. ' “Off Peak” by the way, means the din- • nor hour or other periods when the 1 current consumption drops.