Old Glories Returning

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume XVII, 19 November 1927, Page 13

Old Glories Returning

Early Road Again Popular

From Hastings to Taihape

Panoramic Beauties Described

This may be truly called the age of roads. As a result of the tremendous increase in the volume of motor traffic, improvements have had to be made to both commercial and tourist routes alike. Undoubtedly the motor car is responsible for bringing back one of the oldest and most attractive routes 'in the North Island—the Napier-Taihape road via Erewhon—into the popularity that it enjoyed in the old coaching days when Kuripapango Zourished as a spa. Extern sive improvements have transformed the highway which had dropped into disrepair and gone are the days of fording treacherous rivers and streams, as well as the perilous ascent of Gentle Anne by the marrow track overhanging the Ngaruroro River. Besides winding through a sportsman’s paradise where deer and trout abound, it is the shortest route to the National Park, and the revelation, of its many wonders will soon bring it into favour with tourists coming from all parts.

Having lost its popularity through the opening of the Main Trunk railway, the Napier-Kuripapango-Taihape road is, with the extension of the motor services, rapidly coming back into its own and will soon become a favourite route for tourists.

Probably no other in the Dominion has attached to it so many reminiscences relating to coaching days and the days of waggoners as this highway. Opened in the very early days, it was the only outlet for the cartage of wool from such large stations as Ruanui, Kereai, Otupae, Ngamatea, Mangahere. and Erewhon. As many as 400 horses have been known to be packing in one trail wool from these stations to Kuripapnpango. Later, as conditions improved waggons gradually found their way back to these parts, and as many as 16 waggons were in service on this midland road.

The development of the raliway from Taihape to Wellington saw the greater part of the clips from these remote stations going to Taihape instead of to Napier. In consequence, the waggon traffic left the road, the coaching service within a short time was withdrawn, and the route abandoned altogether. During the last two years times have changed, and the delightful health resort of Kuripapango, the old timed spa, is already quickly coming back to its former popularity. Possessing two fine hotels in the centre of attractive sporting country, this spot was a popular resort for tourists. There was also a hotel at Waikanini, btu those now belong to the past. With the inauguration of a daily motor service connecting at Taihape with the Auckland express the popularity of this highway is assured. In view of the increased motor traffic the local bodies concerned have had many improvements effected, and now the journey can be accomplished with easy driving in about five hours. SCENES EN ROUTE. By the kind invitation of the Duco Motor Service a “ Tribune” representative was able to make the trip to Taihape recently and the impressions gathered instantly revealed reason for the popularity of Kuripapango of the coaching days. All through, the road was in remarkably good and safe order, and the scenery was such as to keep a traveller interested all the way. The rugged, wind-swept slopes of Mount Blowhard, the rushing waters of the Ngaruroro through its precipitous gorge, the wonderful panorama from Kelly’s Mistake near the summit of Gentle Annie, the gorge and razorback at Tararuau, the Ohauku plains over 3000 feet above the sea, the Rangitikei Valley and the beautiful Moawhango River, make a powerful appeal to the sightseer, all being off the beaten tracks. “GOLDEN CREEK.” Leaving Hastings about mid-day, Willowford—32 miles away and 1010 feet above sea level—is reached by an easy run. From the crossing the Battle Creek (1450 feet) a distance of a mile and u half the Hawke’s Bay County Council have reformed the road, improving it with a god layer of metal. From there to the top of Mount Blowhard, a distance of about six miles, is a climb of 1090 feet. From here a fine panorama of the Heretaunga Plains is to be had, while Cape Kidnappers, Hastings, and Havelock North can be seen with ease. Four miles further on is the new Kuripapango steel-girded bridge, recently built by the Hawke’s Bay County Council to replace the crossing washed away by the deluge of March 1924. This stream was known to waggoners as the “Gold Creek” on account of the rusty colour of the bed. Owing to the soft formation and the absence of a foundation a real obstacle was offered to waggoners, and mishaps were frequent. The crossing is at the head of a pretty valley comprising about fourty acres of most fertile land. The many willows along the stream and road present a fine view when descending to the bridge. Filoowing a short run, the first glimpses of the Ngaruroro River are to be had as it wends its way arduno Mount Cameron.

Kuripapango (1595 feet), 45 miles from Hastings, stands on a most picturesque flat nestling in the heart of the mountains on the banks of the Ngaruroro. This one-time flourishing centre is an ideal place for a quiet holiday. Excellent deer stalking is to be had on Mount Cameron (5000 feet), just across the river, while I- -_u abound everywhere. Some three miles distant, at the foot of the Kaweka, are two delightful lakes which are separated only by a low ridged These are the haunts of grey duck, and one in particular is well supplied with trout.

BEYOND HAWKE'S BAY COUNTY

A very picturesque homestead is now to be seen where once stood the hotel which was burned down nearly 27 years ago. Here tourists by this service are served with refreshments under conditions that would be difficult to excell. Spanning a precipitous gorge over the Ngaruroro in a single span of 128 feet is the Kuripapango bridge. Recently the County Council had this structure strengthened throughout, it being now in a perfectly safe condition. Across the river, which is the Hawke’s Bay County’s boundary, and about 200 yards from the bridge, is a clump of pines which mark the spot where the second hotel was located. A number of apple-trees now in bloom, are a reminder of what this place was in earlier days. RELICS OF ACCIDENTS. From here the ascent of Gentle Annie begins, the road rising from 1595 feet to 2430 feet in less than 1| miles. With careful driving the climb from the bridge to the top takes only about eight minutes. Of late, considerable improvements were carried out on this section of the Rangitikei County Council's. All the dangerous corners have been cut well back and the narrow places widened. As ample metal abounds, the surface is in excellent order, and even in wet weather would not offer the slightest trouble to the motorist. Ample passing places are now afforded—many more, indeed, than can be found on many, of the hill roads carrying a much greater volume of traffic. Considerable attention has been paid io the spot where a car driven by Mr. English, a few months back, left the road, diving headlong towards the Ngaruroro. The car is still to ibe seen half-buried in debris some 300 feel below the road. From Kelly’s Mistake near the summit, a splendid view of the Ngaruroro and Kuripapango, 1000 feet below, is to be had. At this spot many years ago a waggoner and six horses went over the side in a sheer drop to destruction. The driver had a miraculous escape from death by being caught in some bushes, emerging with a few slight injuries. Half way down this perilous climb of the early days, is the Kakakino stream. This is the only stream on the road that is not bridged and is the only spot which prevents the road from being used all the year round. Although only a few yards wide, it offers trouble to the motorists during wet weather. On account of the steep bank a car almost dives into it. With the rapidly increasing amount of traffic the bridging of this stream is a most urgent matter. It is understood that as a result of representations made to the Public Works Department, it is probable that the work may be started during the summer. A mile further on is the swamp bridge, which is 150 mile peg from Hastings. Here a detour has had to be made owing to the heavy winter rains having effected a bad seam. A temporary structure has been made until a new bridge can be built. Just beyond this is the depot for the Hawke’s Bay Rabbit Board, and from this isolated spot rabbiters have a two to three days ride to their work. At present they are camped on the top of Mt. Cameron, but as the season goes on will extend their operations as far as the Golden Hills, some forty miles aways, lying far behind Ngamatea. IDEAL CAMPING GROUND. From the depot a fine view is to be had of the Papukura station lying between the Ruahine and Otupae ranges. Boyds turn-off (2340 feet), is 2 J miles distant, while in the next 2| miles a steady descent is made to the Tararuau River (1910 feet). Just before reaching the bridge is a fine clearing, which is surrounded with light timbers, making an ideal camping ground. Here again a pleasant holiday could be spent, either in fishing or shooting. Looking from the bridge one sees the rushing waters of the river wending their way through densly wooded mountain slopes. The road up the Tararuau Gorge contains some of the stiffest grades on the journey besides in places being rather narrow. The surface, however, is well metalled and even in wet weather there would be no fear of slipping. The narrow sections are very short and passingplaces are frequent. From the top of what is known as the Razor-back, the Tararuau River can be seen on either side about 800 feet below. The ridge, which really forms a bridge between two hills, is only wide enough for a good road and such a sight is most awe-inspiring. Once out of the gorge the snow swept Ohauku plains are entered, and about three miles from the bridge is the Ngamatea turn off (3150 feet). The station homestead is about seven miles distant, havi"f access by a reasonably good track. Within hall

a mile is the Kaionui bridge, which is to be replaced shortly hy a new structure.

THE HIGHEST POINT.

For about five miles, the road runs along at a level of over 3000 feet, and all along this stretch a splendid view of Mt. Ngaruhoe and Mt. Ruapehu towering above the other ranges is to be had, while away to the right is the Kaimanawa range and to the left the Otupae and Ruahine ranges. Although tussock-covered, the plains are much more interesting than those at Rangitiki on the Taupo road. This section of the road across the plains is now the only umnetalled portion, but on account of its pumice formation it dries instantly. About half-way across the plains a rabbit-proof fence marks the highest point on the road (3205 feet). A mile and a half further on, is the Mangahone or Otupae turn-off, which road is known as the Pukeohaku route, rejoining the Napier-Taihape road four miles from Taihape. A three mile descent it then made on an excellent surface to the Rangitikei River (1855 feet), which is just 70 miles from Hastings. The river is bridged with a fine new suspension structure just above the ford—the scene of many mishaps of the early days. For many years Brick’s wool-scouring works operated here, washing the clips of about 200,000 sheep, but now the spot is marked only by two pines and sheepyards. A rapid ascent is made from the river to Owabakaona stream (2685 feet), the bridge being known as Hangman’s Bridge. A little further on is Highest Point (2950 feet), and it is near here that the highest homestead in the North Island stands, being 2800 feet above sea level. Further on is the well-known Erewhou station, which was formerly owned by the late Mr. G. P. Donnelly, of Taradale. Here are to be seen many fine pinis insignis plantations which have reached the age of maturity. GREAT IMPROVEMENTS. Taupiri Creek (2200 feet) is reached three miles further, while a descent in the next two miles is made to Woolwash Creek (1750 feet). Here is a pretty waterfall a few chains away. From here the road runs to Moawhango township, following the river of that name which may be rightly called the Beautiful Moawhango.” The gorge-like slopes on both sides are covered with dense vegetation and bush timber. From the township to Taihape. the road is a declared Main Highway and great improvements are being carried out. As large deposits of metal are available, this work is made much easier. About three miles from the township the Moawhango River is crossed by a fine concrete bridge, and after a further three miles through beautiful country the Pukeokahu-Napier junction (1850 feet) is reached. The junction with the Waioura road is just 92} miles from Hastings, this being the route to the National Park, Tokaanu and Taupo.

OFF THE POPULAR ROUTES. The last three miles to Taihape (1257 feet) is a pretty run along the edge of a wide ravine from where a hne view can be had of the bush (now a reserve) adorning its slopes. The trip, after allowing for stops at various scenes, does not take more than six hours. It is by far the shortest route to the National Park, which is now being developed by the Government. With ideal camping sites at every stream and ideal sport for the angler, a wonderful holiday is to be had by those desiring an interesting time away from the popular routes. By this route nearly 90 miles is saved in the journey to Auckland by connecting with the express at Taihape instead of journeying round through Palmerston North and Marton. Every effort should now be made to have this midland road included among the second class highways whereby it would receive greater attention from the Public Works Department. The last season has seen the volume of traffic increase nearly ten fold, which goes to show that its popularity of the pioneering days is being restored.