A NARRATIVE OF THE JOURNEY TO THE WEST COAST.

Hawke's Bay Times, Volume III, Issue 137, 28 August 1863, Page 5 (Supplement)

A NARRATIVE OF THE JOURNEY TO THE WEST COAST.

CONDUCTED BY THE LATE MR. WHITCOMBE. (Translated for the Lyttellon Times, from the German manuscript of the survivor, Jacob Loui’er). We left Christchurch on the 13th April, well provided with provisions, and all things necessary for the expedition. The party consisted of three men with a horse and cart, in which we put 200 lbs. of biscuits, tea, and sugar, and a quarter of mutton. Mr. Whitcombe, having still some business to attend to, remained behind. lie gave us particular directions, and explained which way we were to go, with orders to wait for him at Atkin’s station, on the Rakaia. He gave us besides an open letter, to ensure our getting all things necessary for our comfort, and saying that he would follow us shortly, and arrange matters. Thus provided, we commenced our journey in good spirits, and with splendid weather. We reached Giggs’ public-house the same evening, where we slept, and on the following day, the 14th we went 25 miles further, to an old shepherd’s hut, at a place called Woolshed-hill. Here wo remained for the night, and the next day, the 15th we reached Atkins’ station. We presented our letter, and were immediately shown to a place where we could sleep, getting our meals with the men on the station. We waited all next day, according to directions, for Mr. Whitcombe, who arrived punctually about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, on horseback. Ho made some enquiries concerning our journey and our welfare, appeared well pleased and in good spirits; ho remained that evening in company with the manager of the station. The following morning we prepared to proceed, and as the country now began to get very rough, Mr. Whitcombe determined to leaye the cart behind at the station, together with some of the biscuits. As the horse could not carry every-

thing in one load, one man would therefore have to return and bring on the remainder. We took tome fresh meat from the station. Mr. Whitcombe took bis own swag in front of him on the saddle ; each of the men carried his own swag. The other horse carried about 2001b5., consisting of biscuits, ftea, and sugar, tents, hatchets, ropes, rattraps, and many other trifles which Mr. Whitcombe considered necessary for the journey. We continued our way, at a little distance back from the i river, whex'ever the best travelling ground was to be found ; passed near Lake Heron, and arrived towards evening at a branch of the Hakaia,^which, coming from the west, unites here with£the main stream. Mr. Whitcombe crossed first on horseback. If was,* however, too'deep for us to cross on foot; he, therefore, rode down the'bank on the opposite side to:find a better ford while I went up to a spot where 1 thought" we could cross. 1 called out to say that 1 had found a ‘place, and that we would immediately cross over. He was very cautious, and would not allow us [to enter the water until he ascertained the depth with his horse. We then all crossed safely, and slept in a comfortable hut alongside a woolshed. The”following day, the 18th, we reached a. station in about eight or ten miles, where we passed the night. On the 19th we crossed the river, having supplied ourselves with fresh meat. We found a most comfortable spot for camping in the bush, where we put up our tent ; it rained a little. We had made ;but [little? progress this day. Mr. Whitcombe said, “As it is Sunday, and raining, and being a comfortable spot, we will pass the night hero, and make a long stage to-morrow.” We accordingly did so, anefon the following day continued our course up the river. We had no trouble, as wo were able to keep in the river-bed,'and cross at almost any spot from? side to side ', but; it got very cold, raining now[ and then, with a very strong wind. Wo found a*spot suitable for camping, but as it was still early, about‘3 o’clock, we determined to go a few miles further ; having walked on about a mile, the" wind became so strong that it was only with the greatest exertion we could advance against it. We repented now that we did not remain at the first place, so we determined to return to it, and camp there for the night. The wind fell on the following morning, and a splendid sunrise gave promise of a fine day. High mountains rise up on ’both sides of the valley, with the tops covered with snow; further towards the South we could see glaciers, with perpetual snow, and it was in this direction that we must seek for a Pass loadin'' down to the West Coast across the mountains. I was sent on in advance to find a good campingground. I walked fast, my thoughts recurring back to my native land. These mountains and glaciers reminded me of my young days, when, oftentimes, light-hearted” and free [from care, I had wandered about in just such places. How things are changed since ! I found at last a convenient spot, with wood, water, and feed for horses—it was the last available place for camping in this valley. About 2i miles further to the South a large glacier blocks up the now narrow valley. High snow-covered mountains 1 and blue glaciers rose to a towering height on all sides, and to proceed further in that direction it was quite evident would be attended with the greatest difficulty. On the west side of my camping-ground I observed a deep fissure in the mountain range, from which, out of a side valley, a large stream came rushing down; I.thought, perhaps, this might be the Pass Mr. Whitcombe was searching for. The remainder of the party had now reached mo. Wo unpacked the horses, and they were soon enjoying the young tender grass never before trodden by a four-footed beast. We put up the tent, and a good supper was soon prepared in*our snug quarters. After supper I'liappeued to be alone with Mr. Whitcombe, the two’otbor men .having gone to look after the horses. Suddenly he asked me if I was not afraic to accompany him alone to the West Coast’; he was determined, he said, to go quite through, and to return to the Tereinakau. I said I was not the least afraid, but I “could j not see how I could carry all tho necessary things. He said we would not require to carry much for fourteen days; that he would [carry his oppossura rug and a dozen biscuits, while I could take the remainder. He then asked me how many biscuits I thought we should require each day. I answered, “ I could do with two in a day,” in which he [agreed with me. I then asked him why he would not take a third man. He said, “You see that they are new chums, and instead of being of any service, would give us a great deal of trouble; it is, therefore, better we should go alone. It cannot be more than fifty miles to tho coast, and the road must be very rough indeed if we cannot make five or six miles a day. This would take, therefore, ten days at the outside; from there to tho Tereinakau it will take at most two days more, and then one day to the Grey ; or we can get a canoe from Captain Dixon with provisions, ascend the Teremakau as far as possible, and from thence across the saddle easily in four or five days. If Captain Dixon should have left that part, we can find out the Brothers Sherrin, who will supply us with sufficient provisions to take us back, or we may find out the diggers that Captain Dixon had brought there. Should all these fail, we will proceed to the Grey, and there get sufficient from tho Maories to take us on to Howitt’s, at Lake Brunner, well knowing that he, as a particular friend, will supply us with all things necessary. 11 is only necessary for us to take sufficient to bring us to the coast; the rest must provide for itself.” It was then arranged what else wo would take with us, viz., a hatchet, a billy for tea, no tent, (as it was too heavy) a long thin rope, pannikins, and some tea ; he would not take any sugar, that also being too heavy. When 1 represented that a small quantity of sugar was very desirable, he said that I might do as I liked about it, and that I might take as much as I chose to carry; I therefore took about 811)3. with me, besides the rat-traps, tobacco, matches, salt, his instrument, and a quarter of cooked mutton, which we had brought with us ; and the principal thing, the biscuits we counted out four a day for fourteen days. The two others had now returned ; he told them his intentions, that we two would go on, while they were to return tho following day to Christchurch, get the horses shod, and then proceed to tho foot of

the Teremakau saddle, to a hut which I told them where to find, with the horses and provisions, and there to wait for us. We chatted a long time that evening, the weather being beautiful, speaking of our intended journey. He again said ho did not think it would take us more than fourteen days to reach the Teremakau saddle, and he expressed a hope that the weather would remain fine; but that if it broke, wo had no alternative but to keep on, rain or no rain, since the provisions were limited for a certain number of days. I drew his attention to tho valley at the west side of the mountain range, and asked if that was perhaps the Pass he expected to find. He said he had already observed this valley, and that it seemed easy to cross, but next day ho would follow to tho very head of the river, as another side valley could be seen leading in the same direction, but being about three miles distant, we could not see whether it was crossable or not.

On the following morning, tho 22nd, we prepared for our journey. Mr. Whitcombe counted out the biscuits for fourteen days, putting twelve in his own swag ; I took the remainder with all the rest of the things. We bad killed the evening previous three birds like thrushes, which, being very good eating, wo took with us ; we also caught a wood-hen. It was determined to take one man with us for a few miles, to help to carry the things, tho other to remain with tho horses. After walking about three miles, we readied the foot of tho glacier from which tho Riikaia takes its source ; the blue water rushes out with violence from a vaulted cave under the ice. AVe saw at once that we had come up too far, as this side valley ended near at hand in an abrupt wall of ice. We laid clown our packs, and, the day being fine, ascended the glacier that blocked up the valley ; it was about 400 or 500 feet high, nearly level, so we could easily climb to the top. From here we had a magnificent prospcct’of other glaciers, rising on all sides to a groat height. After we had satisfied our curiosity, we descended, took up our packs, and went back the way we had come. AVe intended now to try the pass in the valley, which I had observed the evening of our arrival. Mr. AA r hitcombo thought that this might possibly ha the spot he was to examine whether it were possible to make a track across. We walked very fast, ns we had already lost a part of the day, and we had hopes of crossing the saddle this fine day. A large rapid stream runs down the narrow valley ; no scrub is to be seen, nor any more glaciers. The mountains rise to a great height on both sides, with snow-covered summits, but without any ice. About eleven a.m., before we had time to think about it, heavy clouds came up along the sides of the mountains, and almost at the same instant it began to rain hard. AVe thought it was only a passing storm, but iVkept increasing ; presently large flakes of snow began to fall, and in a short time everything was covered. AVe reached the highest point of the saddle ; it consisted of disjointed blocks of rock, and for a few hundred yards is nearly level. We sat down to rest. Air, Whitcombe took an observation with his instrument, and he told me we were 4000 feet above the level of the sea. It was about one p.m. ; tho snow continued to fall very fast, and made it very cold. Air. AVhitcoiubc said to me it was bettor to send the other man back now, otherwise the snow would be too deep for him to return. I therefore took the whole load, and eight biscuits more. AVe then separated—Air. Whitcombe and I going to the AVest ; the other man returning to the camp we had left in the morning, which he could still reach before nightfall. To this point, though at a great expense, a track might be cut; at least, it is not impossible to do so, but now begins the descent, not steep, but very much broken everywhere. Tho valley gets narrower and narrower ; water rushes forth from under all the rocks, and in a short time a large stream is formed, running in a north-west direction. From both sides of the valley small streams fall down nearly perpendicular ; the brook soon becomes a river ; and tho same evening we bad to look, occasionally for a long distance, to find a crossing-place. AVe followed down the stream as quickly as possible, anxious to reach a bush where we could get firewood. But it got dark before we could find any, so we had no [choice but to sit down on a rock, and so pass the night. AA r o could not sleep, at all tho whole night. We were, however, cheerful, and considered we had passed tho worst part of the road. We had come about fifteen miles that day. It snowed without ceasing the whole night. Several times during the night we had to shake the snow oIT our blankets, whenever it got too heavy. The night seemed very long, and we could not lie down, as the ground was too’wet. It was, however, only the commencement of our sufferings. Wo had at least good food, for although the biscuits had got saturated from the rain and snow, they tasted sweet ; besides wo had some meat remaining. That night we met with a loss. I placed the four birds and the wood-hen, which I had brought with me, by my side on the same stone as we were sitting on, never thinking that rats or mice could exist in such a desolate place, but in the morning wo were horrified to see that the rats had found them out, and had left very little .except the feathers. Next morning Air. Whitcombe, by an observation with his instrument, assured mo that we were about 1200 feet lower than’the Pass. It still snowed ; everything was covered with it; but among the rocks, continually increasing in size and number in the river-bed. a heavy’ spray was formed, washing the snow away. The river now becomes a succession of waterfalls ; it falls from rock to rock into a basin.; then over more rocks, and so on. The sides of the river bed are perpendicular for several thousand feet, quite impossible to ascend, although some few shrubs begin to cling to it now in spots. We scrambled on the whole day, and made three miles. It now ceased to snow, and the spray from the rocks made us very wet. In the evening I endeavoured to make a fire, and succeeded, after much trouble. Then I carried together as much wood as would keep the fire burning all night, and we made some tea. Our sugar had got quite liquid and had saturated my blankets and clothes, but wo only laughed at our loss ; we could live well without sugar. We were seriously alarmed, however, about the biscuits; they had become one mass of Vet dough, and we could easily sec

that in this form they would not keep long. I kept up a good fire the whole night, Mr. Whitcombe laid down, and I could hear that he slept. I could not sleep much, having to .pay so much attention to the fire. Next morning the snow ceased, the sun shone out, and was followed by a fine day ; still we could not dry ourselves, the spray from the river kept us as wet as possible ; we had a splendid sight—the sun shining on the spray tinted everything with the colors of the rainbow. Wo travelled for some hours amidst these changing colors, when we came to a place where an extensive earthslip had become fixed ; here we were able to ascend a few hundred feet, high enough to be out of the reach of the spray, where we determined to rest ourselves for a while. We soon reached a dry spot, opened our swags, and laid everything in the sun, and then lay down ourselves. We could not see any blow flies about, of which there are so many in all parts of the country. I soon fell asleep ; I think Mr. Whitcombe did the same, but he awoke first, looked at his watch and said we had been resting for an hour and a half, that we must pack up and get on our way. I quickly set to work to tie up ray swag, but the blow-flies had found us out, and had covered everything with their eggs, his oppossum rug was the worst; we cleaned everything as well as we could, packed them up and descended once more among the spray. The rainbow colors had vanished, together with the sunshine ; thick clouds rose up, and the same evening it rained again, and continued so all night, still I was able to make a fire, and we consoled ourselves with the hope (hat wo [had passed the worst of the road," and that it would soon improve ; we had not come far that day—about four miles. The next morning we got oft" at daybreak, but our road, instead of improving, got worse ; the river had increased in volume, and wo could only occasionally find a spot where we could ford it ; the sides, nearly perpendicular, were overgrown with dense scrub, the rocks getting larger and larger, the rain also continued incessant. About raid-day wo reached some rocks in the river bed, of an enormous size, all wet and slippery ; we scrambled on from one to another, often over dangerous places, and soon arrived at a place where 1 looked down straight into a deep whirlpool, and which it seemed impossible to crass. I said nothing, but took off my swag ; Mr. Whitcombo soon came up, and, looking at it, said, “ Now, Jacob, wo are caught in earnest, and it is impossible to go on, the sides are perpendicular, and to return is even more impossible, since a great depth of snow must have fallen on the Pass lately.” He asked what 1 thought was the best thing to be done ; considering the matter, I saw the point of a rock projecting over the surface of the water ; I could let myself down on this with the rope, 'and then ascertain the depth of the water, whether it was possible to get through it. I told him my intention, with which he was well pleased. I fastened the rope to a small rock, which 1 lowered into the water on the opposite side, then threw the other end onto the projecting point, and lowered myself carefully down with my hands. The water boiled, and hissed, and foamed like a witch’s cauldron. I let myself down to the mouth, but could feel no bottom. I drew myself back on to the rock, and considered a moment what was to bo done. I perceived a small hollow' in the side of the rock, about a foot above the water. I could just place half the length of my finger in it, but 1 thought with (lie help of this to be able to cross. I directed M\\ Whitcombe to push the rope on top towards the side-wall, then, lidding myself up to my neck in water, reached the side, and the notch in the wall, let go the..ropc, and held fast to (lie notch. I had no trouble to cross over ; being in the water, it supported mo, so that I could hold myself up with my fingers. Thus 1 got on to the next rock witli ease, from whence I could get into the bush. I then called out to Mr. Whitcombe to throw me ovcr.the hatchet, but he could not hear me, from the roaring of the water, so I made signs to himflhat I wanted to chop. H understood mo at once, and threw' over the required article. I went to the bank of the river where the scrub grew highest, and cut down three of the longest poles 1 could find, carried them down to the basin, over which Mr. Whitcombe must now cross, laid two of them across on the point of a rock I had formerly lowered myself on to. I could now cross on foot. I took the third and longest polo with me, and placed it upright by the side wall, but it was too short, and I asked him to draw up the line, fasten the swags to it, and then lower it down. Ho did so, and I brought over everything in safety. Then, returning 1 cried out to him to lower himself to the point of the pole, which I held fast. I now bold him that he could easily steady himself an instant with one hand and cut the rope with the other. He did so ; I drew it up ; he pushed himself now' off 1 for good, then across, and we lost only a few' yards of rope. It had got nearly dark, so it was necessary to prepare to pass the night. It rained without ceasing ; w r e had not one dry thread on our bodies. I tried my best to light a fire for a long time without success, but succeeded at last, and kept up a good fire all night. We made some tea and ate a little of onr dough, placing the remainder near the fire to dry. Mr. Whitcorabe felt very weak and tired—that he had no idea the road would bo so fearfully rough. He observed with his instrument, and told mo wc were 2000 feet below the saddle. We chatted for a long time. He spoke of India and the war, and then lay down to sleep. I attended carefully to the fire, which threatened continually to go out, the wood being very wet and had. I slept but little, and the night appeared very long. At daybreak we got ready again, but our breakfast did not taste well, although wc were very hungry; the dough had become sour through the heat of the fire, and wo were constrained to eat only half our usual rations, as we could see it would take us longer than we anticipated to reach the coast. We tied up our bundles, but his oppossum rug, from the lor g-continued rain and the blow’-flies, had become useless. On perceiving ibis, Mr. Whitcombe said to me, “I shall leave it behind, it is disgusting ; beside, I cannot carry it any further, it makes me too tired. You have a good blanket; it is large enough, and we can sleep together ; if you feel yourself able to carry it, I shall pay you extra for it.” I assented, rol-

led up everything and took the entire load myself. It rained continually, but not heavily. We scrambled on from rock to rock with much labor, and about ten o’clock we came to a place which entirely stopped our progress. The river fell straight down over a high rook, spreading out broad and deep at the bottom. Here was an insurmountable obstacle. Mr. Whitcombe appeared a little dismayed, and said to me, “ Now Jacob, I really cannot see what is to bo done * to pass across here is quite impossible.” I told him we had no choice but to ascend the North bank of the river. He said “ That is impossible; it is perpendicular.” “ But,” said I, “ the whole face is covered with scrub, which wo can hold on to, and thus manage to get along.” So saying, I commenced the ascent, and he followed me. We scrambled on all day, going to a great height across a very dangerous point, and then down the opposite side ; the sweat and rain ran down my face. When wo got down again to the river bed night had come on ; it had taken us the whole day, with the hardest work, to advance about 200 yards. We could not make a fire ; we ate a little of the dough, which was getting worse and worse, and the last morsel of meat we had with us. We slept close together, to keep ourselves warm: I did not feel the cold much, while he trembled the whole night. In the morning I made a fire and somo tea for breakfast; we reduced our faro still more, taking only about half the usual quantity. The rain was ceaseless ; everything was thoroughly soaked ; wo proceeded as quickly as possible, still over rocks,- sometimes we found cavities between them through which we could creep. It was quite impossible to cross the river ; the Southern bank becomes one long perpendicular wall, the Northern side presents the only possible travelling ground. The river continues in nearly the same direction with a few slight turns, towards N.W. After travelling about three miles we came to a turbulent stream coming in from the North. I tried to cross, but could not, it was too deep and rapid. I then tried another spot, with the same result. We were now obliged to ascend the river to find a better ford ; after going about two miles through a very dense bush we found a better looking spot just above a waterfall, it was just as much as we could manage ; we then followed down on the opposite side to the main river, and followed its course still over rocks; the mountains became somewhat lower, and the North bank no longer so sleep, the bush changed to forest of the usual description, the rain fell incessantly, but it was not very cold. We found a level spot, with somo dry wood, where we decided to spend the night, it was then evening—we were both very tired ; our supper was soon ready, consisting of tea, and a little dough which had become fearfully sour and mouldy. The ruin having ceased a little, we made a large fire, lay down as dose to it as possible, and slept pretty well. It rained again nest morning. We started at daybreak, and in about a mile wo reached a level spot, apparently about three miles long, by two miles wide ; the whole surface was covered with an exceedingly dense growth of scrub ; high bush, grow round the edge of this—we determined to proceed through the latter. Wo left the river, and in about a mile reached the forest, it was, however, equally dense with undergrowth : from the excessive rain it was one large lagoon ; wo walked on all clay above the knees in water, in the direct ion of the river, which we reached in the evening. We passed the night under an overhanging rock, which protected us from the wind and rain ; made a good lire, and slept pretty well; wo sot our rat-trap every night, but without success ; we could hear no wood-hens, or anything else that we could catch. The day following it ceased to rain ; Mr. Whitcombe again observed with his instrument, and said we could not be above 1,000 feet above the sea. We were able this morning to follow the bed of the river, but always on top of enormous rocks ; about W o’clock we reached a spot where the river is closed in by two perpendicular walls, not more than five or six yards asunder, the water running through with indescribable velocity. Here, also, ends the roughest of the road. With somo difficulty we crossed over tin's rocky barrier, having to make a circuit of over two miles before wo could descend on the other side. Having reached the river-bed again wc found the road much improved ; we could now follow along the shingle beds. We soon arrived at another river which was impossible to cross, also coming in from the North side ; we followed it up for somo miles to where it divides ; we were able to cross the first, but not the second branch, this wo ascended still higher to where it again divides, and hero wo crossed over. The same evening we returned to the main river, and as it ceased to rain wo kept on to a small rivulet, where we passed the night. Next morning I made some tea, while Mr. Wliitcome examined the road wc had to go ; by chance looking towards the bank of a stream, I observed some splendid looking wash-stuff—fine gravel, mixed with quartz ami ironstone. I took the lid of billy and washed about two handfuls, and found some fine specks of gold—what diggers call “ the color.” I washed some more, and laid the result on a green loaf. When Mr. Whitcombe returned he asked me what I was doing ; I showed him the gold ; we no longer thought about our breakfast—he knocked down the stuff with his compass stick, and I went on washing as fast as I could, I think I got somewhere about two grains of fine gold ; then Mr. Whitcombe cried out, “ That is enough, Jacob, we shall claim the reward, wc cannot spend any more time here.” He then asked me if it would pay to work ; I answered, perhaps it would with a ground sluice, not in any other way, hut we had not found the bottom, which was always the best. He scraped up the gold carefully on a piece of paper, which he tied up in a corner of his handkerchief. Ho spoke of it tho whole day, and had great hopes concerning it. The same day he found a slate, of a silver-greyish color, of which he brought away some specimens with him ; ho said that was the proper sort of slate. I found a piece of greenstone as big as my two fingers, very pretty, and transparent. Wc were obliged again to take to the bush and swamps, it rained hard, and was very cold ; we camped in the bush, with a very poor fire, and spent a very cold night. [ To he Coniinued iu our next'].