INTRICATE DETAIL HALLMARKS NORMAN HARTNELL'S GOWNS

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 143, 5 July 1937, Page 14

INTRICATE DETAIL HALLMARKS NORMAN HARTNELL'S GOWNS

Norman Hartnell showed many beautiful gowns in his recently-displayed collection and as Queen Elizabeth cho«e Hartnell to design many of her gowns the collection was of special interest. He seldom alters his standard names for his gowns; prei'ers to supplement them, if necesaary, and alwoys prefers small type to capital letters in his programmes. "liaute monde" was nnne the less grand for not being given capital letters. It was made of exquisite lace patterned with the rose, the thistle, the sliamrock, and the leek, a design which the Queen has chosen for one of her gowns. Norman Hartnell' s grey Jisse Ascot frock, "dovetail" he aptly called it, was perfect. Made of pale dove gi-ey lisse, it had a liigh neck with a demure turn-down collar. The dove-tailing came in in the intricacy of diagonal rocks. The adorable little hat which went with it was as flat as a soup-plate ; worn perched forward over one eye. Its crown was covered with humming-bird sized birds made of grey and soft pink feathers. His navy blue lisse frock with its white bird at the tliroat, matching tho white bird which swooped forwards on fche flat crown of the matching hat, wili probably repeat "dovetail's" success. Another black crepe romaine frock, worn with a black coat printed with marguerites, had the autlientic Hartnell touch in its stiff white organdie collar which had little organdie marguerites appliqued round the edge. The white lace was outlined witli gold thread and tiny gold s'equins. The round neck was cut no lower thau the neck of a most discreet dinner frock ; the sleeves were frist length and bell shaped. With this ' gown, the mannequin wore a tiara of diamonds and three strands of pearls. His second Court gown, "liolding court," was cut on much the same lines, high neck, long sleeves. It was made of chiffon, covered so closely with uiocroscopic opalescent beads that they looked as if they had been woven into the material. Wheatears, again reminiscent of the design which the ; Qqeen chose for the embroidery whiclL I glistened on her six train bearers' white [ frocks, were embroidered in tiny silver i beads at iritervals on the bodiee and on the slim, straight skirt. All these intricacies of detail, these splendours of embroidery, hall-mark a Hartnell dress. He seems to be able to find the best flowers in all London. He throws a handful of simple primroses on a sophisticated frock to achieve ultra-sophistication. His tucket crepe

romaine eveuing gown, "citron, '' in that curious yellow-green colour, had a cluster of primroses in exaetly the same colour tucRed in front of tlie bodice. They were arranged so that they showed Ut the throat of th© coat which went with the frock — a magnificent, full-skirted coat made of white and silver brocade, belted with bridiauta and fiuished with a deep collar of soft white fox.. His printed Ascot frock was made of chiffon printed with enormous blue and pink orchids ; a handful of orchids was fchrust into the softly draped sash; another Ascot frock was made of chiffon printed with blue and rose colour ed poppies with an enormous cluster of matching poppies pinned 'at the waist. And, in contrast to his Court gqwns, lie showed a s'ort of night club frock; called it "boite do nuit." The extremely low-cut frock was made of shiny black sequins, its coral pink sequin jacket was belted with jade green sequins and wom with jade green chiffon scarf tied AscotTashion. His bats were charming, ' frivolous affairs. For suits and simple frocks he oi'ten showed shallow-crowned, widebrimmed hats of felt, encircled with a double strand of matching cord. For more elaborate afternoon frocks the shallow crowns still persisted. A nar-row-brimmed hat of black lacquered straw had the crown covered with shiny lacquered fruit iii different colours. An enormous sailor hat with an up-turned brim went with his orchid-printed chiffon frock.