Garden Guide

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 55, 20 March 1937, Page 14

Garden Guide

THE PLOWES GARDEN. In thase gardens where a bright display of suitable subjects for winter and spring had. not yet been thought of, it is neeessary to prepare at onee. Many choice fiowers can be planted now by see.dlings, which will give quicker results and will be found more satisfactory than sowing seedsj that is to say, where early dispiays are required. Pansies, violas, Iceland poppies, stocks, primulas, malacoides, anemones, ranunculus and polyanthus, will all ensure a plentiful supply of bloom in winter and spring if planted now. Eailure with Iceland poppy seedlings ean be eliminated if, instead of planting straight out from the seed-bed, tiiey are potted up in 4in. or 5in. pots (three or four plants in eaeh). After 10 to 14 days in the pots they will have hardened off suffieiently to plant ont in the bed or border. Care, however, should be taken not to disturb the ball of earth ro.und the roots. Although most ' amateurs prefer to wait until early spring, this is a good month to sow annuals such as clarkia, godetia, larkspur, Shirley poppy, scabious, salpiglossus, dianthus, etc. The ground being still warm, they will mahe good root growth and become quite hardy before winter sets -in, and will give early flowering dispiays in spring. During this month also make large plantings of bulbs such as jonquils, daffodils, anemone, ranunculus, tulips, hyacinths, freesias, ixias, iris, laehenafias, etc. Trench the beds eighteen inehes deep at least; break the earth fine and lay the surface even, Plant the bulbs carefully with the roots downwards and press the earth gently around thOm. Cuttings may be taken this month of geraniums, hydrangeas, and penstemons. Carnations and daphnes can be layered. Eor those who contemplate planting roses, shrubs and trees later on, it is advisable to thojroughly prepare the ground by deep digging, with an application bf well-rotted manure to a depth of about two feet in the ground. Beds of early annual fiowers which have finished blooming should be dug over in prepa^ation for further plantings. All tall-growing plants that require support should be staked as a pnotection from heavy rain and wind; this applies especially to chrysanthemums. Keep the surface of all beds from weeds by frequent stirring of the soil. Trim hedges carefully to preserve an even outline. They will make fresh growth and look well through the winter. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Where vegetables for winter use are required, plants of cabbage and caulifipwer should be put in immediately. To obtain best results with cabbages nip the leaves up the stem and pinch off the tap-ropt from the young see.dlings before planting, Plant deeply the full length of the stem. The ground for cabbages should be dug as deeply as possible, with plenty of manure added, as they are gross feeders. These hints -ara -very important and the amateur will be able to enjoy greater success if these instructions are carried out. Gaulifiower.s should be planted jn as open and moist a part of the gaTden as possible. Where it is not possible to get both open conditions and moisture the latter is preferable, bnt care must be taken that the ground is well drained. One of the finest blood purifying vegetables is prickly spinachA and sowings shohld be made now for winter use. Seed should be sown not too thickly, and when plants are large enough, thin out. W^en ready do not pull plants up by the roots, but strip off the leaves only. At this time of the year shorthorn earrots should be largely sown. Prepare the ground well and dig in a quantity of well-rotte.d manure. This should be well worked in and not left near the surface, for, if the strawy materi,al is left near the surface the roots of the earrots are liable to be forked. Sow thickly, and do not thin out too seyerely "at first. When the earrots are about pqncil size, thin o.ut to two inehes apart, and the young earrots taken out should not be thrown away, but will be found exeellent for use in soups. Gelery plants can still be planted out into trenehes during the early part of this month for winter orops. Toward the end of the month another planting may be made for spring supplies. By making sowings of Early White and Silver Skin onion varieties and with the addition of plenty of manure and good cultivation, there will be a ohance of a crop of young winter onions. Sow plenty of turnips. If sown this month they grow quickly. Non-seeding White is a most reliable eort, as is also Orange Jelly. SOW SWEET PEAS. The autumn sowing of sweet peas is a matter of vital importance to the ex- . hibitors and others who desire first-class results, It invariably results in the ehoieest fiowers being obtained in good time. Where there is an ideal position and sojl, a bed that is fairly sheltered during the winter and moderately light and well drained, the seeds may be sown out of doors. Where outdoor sowing is to be done, nofc a mpment should be lost in getting the ground Teady. This invplves deep txenching for eaeh row and liberal manuring. The soil having had time to eettle the seeds may be carefully plaeed in position. A double row oi seeds at one ineh depth and nine inehes apart gives good results, Before sowing the seeds should be damped with water and then rolled iu red lead to make them distasteful to birds. Slugs, which may be very troublesome when the seedlings appear, can be kept ut bay with dustings of soor. 11. is advisable to sow a fow extra seeds at the end oi eaeh row to covev losses. theso spare plants being moved to fill blanks >n the early spring. RIGHT TIME TO HARVEST Many readers are often in doubt as to the correet time to pull their earrots,

turnips, etc. Often good crops are spoilt by premature using, and many get coarse because they are left in the soil too long and become tough. Below is a chart that should be helpful to the average gardener and should be kept for referenee when neeessary. Beane (Erench and xunner) are tenderest when some 6in. long, where there are no "rusty" stains on them and when, as yet, they are not bulged; out with the seeds. Cabbages are ready when they have formed a firm head, bnt they should aiways be cut at the first sign of bursting. Shorthorn earrots are ready any time after the tops are as big as eixpence. They may be examined for size by moving the soil away from them with the fingers, Caulifiowers should be cut while the cure is still firm and packed closely togetker, and before the pieces forming the cure di,vide and show vaeancies between. Gucumbers should be gathered before they lose their dull bloom, before they lose all their wrinkles, before they begin to yellow at the stem, and before the old flower drops off the point. Leeks may be -used any time after they are large enough. Marrows are best cut when about a foot long and while still green. AIIoav none to ripen till near the end of the season. Mustard and eress should be eut when rather more than an inch high ancL before they make their soeond pair of leaves, Onions can be pulled for use at any time, but for keeping tkey must ripen and the tops be nearly dead. Peas sliould be allowed to becoiup well filled before gathcriug, but it is a bad poliey to Avait till the pods become Avliitish and there is a seam down the front from stem to point. Early potatoes: The only way to aseertain when these ought to be lifted is to uncover certain roots, examine the size of any tubers brought to light, and also test their skin with the thumb-nail to aseertain if it is firm and tough.