THE PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2641, 23 September 1882, Page 3

THE PARIS FASHIONS.

(From the “ Queen,” July 22.) The rainy cold weather has kept in Paris many families of the upper ten, who, had the days been sunny and warm, would have migrated either to the seaside or to their country houses. However, all receptions have ceased in the capital, and the elegantes who remain here give no parties. Prom the country houses orders are received by our leading dressmakers for wtszu costumes, bees use the cottons, muslins and thin dresses ordered before leaving town are of no avail; the skirts of them only are worn, and woollen, moire, velvet and broeatelle bodices are to be seen over japes of Pompadour sateen and painted linen. I will cite as examples of costumes worn at midday breakfasts in chateaux one sported daring the week by the Countess de Beau-

moot. A round skirt of white muslin, trimmed to the waist with narrow flounces ; a popf j red velvet bodice, with collarette and jabot of old Venetian point j long buttonles. Suede gloves of the light shade called “ bois d’erable,” reaching to elbow, and meeting the sleeves that terminate with flat revere of old point; large black straw hat, with a huge red velvet bow and a bouquet of shaded red poppies. An. ther costume worn by Mdlle, da Houge consisted <1 a white muslin ekirt, etudded with small bouquets of forget-me-nots, and drap- d at the side with a large bow of shaded blue moire ribb.n; the b; dice was gathered at the waist, the sssb and belt biiug shaded moiro ribbon ; largo Leghorn hat, with a thick wreath of forget mc-nota round the crowo, and wide blue strings flowing at each side, exactly "the Fiorian Shepherdess bat”; pale blue stocklogs, laced English shoes, and long white silk mittens embroidered with forget-me-nats. On account of the changeable weather, Mdlle. do Kauge had added to her toilette a white bachollk trimmed with rows of narrow gold braid; this pretty addition, of Bnssisn origin, forming a fichu and hood oombin d, is again coming into favour. Mdlle. de Montesquion also wore a costume deserving description. It was plain ecru foulard, the ekirt trimmed with three deep flouacee each bordered with a painted garland of shaded con • volvuli ; pani.r polonaise, with a bouquet of similar flowers on the bodice ; brown straw hat with tufts of convolvuli, and ecru foulard parasol embroidered with the game flowers. Before entering her open carriage she slipped on a light grey waterproof cloak. Another English fashion has taken root in France, and ail sorts of fanciful bibbed aprons are worn in country bouses this season. White muslin ones, trimmed with colored silk ruches, are the favorites ; others ate made of ficelle laoe, and the inevitable pocket is always ornamented with a bright oclored ribbon bow. Parasols are made of gathered white muslin and lined with blue, pink, lilac, or red silk ; a quantity of natural flowers, striped stockings to match the costume in colour, long black, white, and grey netted mittens, worked over a flee mesh in silk, are all in vogue.

For seaside wear, several costumes of Indieune cottons have been made. These are printed in brightly-colored chocks, like the Madras handkerchiefs worn aa turbans by mulatto women, and which are bordered with a larger pattern than that which forms the centre—red, yellow, and brown dominating in all the patterns. The skirts in such cos tames are trimmed with deep flounces, each on ) having a printed border, and the bodice is gathered to a waistband; there is no basque, but the large collar is also gathered round the neck, and is of ludionno like the costume ; a white ruche is wore round the throat. The Countess de Gennea wears this style of drees, which is known as “La Bobe Nogreife.” Mile, de Q-ennes wears the costume known aa 11 Bsine dcs Pres j” it is whitish grey linen, ornamented with wild flowers, a mixture of light grapes, oats, marguerites, cornflowers, poppies, &o. A bouquet is fastened at the side of the wide waistbelt, at one side of skirt, on the hat, and white parasol. A blue gauze veil is invariably added.

I omitted to mention a very pretty ball given in Paris by Mme. de Sainvilla to young people only, before the general exodus. The two Miles, da Herodia—one brutie, the other blonde—wore white muslin, made with gathered bodices and full paniers. The brune wore poppies round the paniers, on her bodice and shoes ; the blend e wore cornflowers in the same manner. All the dancers wore very long but light Suede gloves. Mila, des Essacts were pink Indian muslin, embroidered in silk, with tiny bouquets of pink fuchsias; low gathered bodioo, with a large tuft of the same flowers at the side } the skirt mounted in wide plaits ; low headdress with a single spray of pink fuchsia near the ear; three rows of pink coral, with a pearl between every bead, round her throat. Mile. Delamarre was in pale blue mousseline de soie over a blue silk petticoat, the skirt covered with narrow flounces gathered at the top, and each bordered with a narrow blue ribbon, a multitude of small ribbon bows, looking like blue bumming birds, were studded over the bodice end skirt, and also in the hair. Among the young married women, the Baroness de la Grange's toilette bore off the palm ; the skirt was silver-grey moire, trimmed with flouuoes of black Lyons lace j the Frincesso bodice, lengthening into a train, was of shot violet and black silk, trimmed round with a thick violet ruche, lined with si.ver-grey, end beneath the train a mass of Valenciennes lace; the low bodice was edged at the top with a thick ruche to match. I always deplore the absence of a soft white lace tucker next the skin j but it has now quite given place to black lace and colored silk ruches. M. Felix, Faubourg St. Honore, is making some pretty costumes for country wear in foulard with a satin face, and covered with Pompadour patterns, the ground being greyish white. The skirts are trimmed with four bouillonnes and narrow kilted lace flounces ; paniers with a ruched heading; bodice gathered at the waist and on the shoulders; elbow sleeves with lace killings. A novel toilette for spa and casino wear consists of a ficelle lace skirt, made with two deep flounces, a large red bow in front j a Marie Christine bodice—a sort of short panier polonaise in red satin, covered with perpendicular rows of ficelle blonde, giving the effect of lace striped satin j large satin collar, covered with lace. An elegant dinner dress is yellow satin, veiled in cream blonde and studded with red and gold pampilles. Many of the costumes at the Matson Felix for both country and casino wear are in the regenoe style. There are retroussis both at the sides and back of the skirt, made of mousseline de soie, painted with large roses that diminish in size as they ascend, those on the bodice being quite small. Then there are short skirts consisting of three deep flounces of open muslin embroidery, bordered with lace plaitings; a striped blue and cerise waistcoat, and a Babetto jacket of open embroidery, lavishly trimmed with lace. A pretty toilette for a young lady is in pink mousseline de laine made with a double tablier, hows of pink satin ribbon and a gathered bodice. Mme. Bcdtigues is making seaside costumes in amber white nun’s veiling, with kilted skirt and simple tunic draped as a scarf; the bodice is always different, being of flue cloth, the color known as “ aquatic," aud in form a short jacket opening over a large guimpe of ecru lace, and fastened with two pattes and two buttons at the waist. At the Maison Boger, Boulevard Haussman, there are several spotted and checked foulards, trimmed with lace, to be seen. The skirts are trimmed with flat orossbands alternating with lace flounces. Simple but elegant costumes are made with red open-worked embroidery and red foulard, the bodice has panier basques trimmed with lace and long flots of red ribbon. A gathered foulard chemisette. The caiaquea of green, ruby, and sapphire velours gause are worn with the white skirts, consisting only of embroidery in relief ; then there are casaquins and bodices made of embroidered red gauze applique on pale grey batiste de soie, the skirt being pinkish grey Italian gauze, trimmed with rows of kilting, edged with white guipure. The flounces on blue linen dresses are worked in red; the fan, parasol, and hat are all embroidered in red. For dinner and evening wear, Mme. B;ger makes the Dona Christine toilette in pink satin, with square bouillonne train ; four Ohanti ly lace flounces on the skirt and a drapery of Chantilly on the train ; low bodice and scarf in silver grey silk painted with Pompadour flowers. At the Maison Tnvee, Place Ver.dome, two new models in hats have beeu introduced. The “ Melbourne,” in soft claret or black straw and velvet ; it is round, slightly turned up at one side, and trimmed with six feather tips and one long plume that curia over the back hair ; a paste buckle fastens the velvet ribbon on the crown. The “tit. Mar?,” in both black and color, is a smaller hat, also round, with turned up brim; the crown trimmed with velvet, a paste buckle, a quantity of feathers. The baskets of fruit that do duty for bonnets are also to be seen at Mm. Tuvee’s ; they contain quite a dessert of fruit—apples, cherries, grapes, currants, &c.; also pretty bonnets with straw crowns, black lace brim, and a wreath of roses du Boi or cabbage roses. The Maison Virot is making extremely elegant bonnets in grey straw, lined with velvet of a darker shade, and trimmed with the softest of grey feathers ; others in bege straw and bege feathers, and a small dove with black ring on its throat fastened to the bonnet with a strain ornament ; another in golden brown straw is covered with sweet peas. The capotes are made in natural moss and roses, and the larger bonnets are trimmed with cornflowers tied with red ribbon. ■liars Dh Massy.