DRESS AND FASHION IN PARIS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2513, 27 April 1882, Page 4

DRESS AND FASHION IN PARIS.

Plash now, as hitherto, forms tho mam part of rich toiletter, and above all others the Pekin plush, which is made up in v«J .tries, as polonaises, corsages, with pom.», with basques, and with long narrow basques which extend into robinga at tho sides, and fall to the edge of tho skirt; the underskirt ia generally of satin, gauged and pleated, in the color of tho background or stripes. Such a dress is tho following, made fur a fashionable wedding The plush is striped old gold and olive green, the skirt being ot olive satin gauged all over. The tunio is of plush, open in front and edged with lovely olive green chenille passmentarie covered with greenish black, amber, and steel beads ; the satin paniors are gauged to the corsage beneath a lino of the same passementerie. The plush tunic is gracefully draped at the sides Iby cords and tosselo, and the material is out on the bias, so that the stripes do not hang straight, and give a far bettor effect j I the tenio and tho satin paniers are prolonged into a serpentine train, bordered at the sides by the long plush robinge which are tho continued basques of tho corsage. Great care roust be taken in cutting out a corsage of striped plush so that tho stripes »re gracefully arranged, and render the whole «ffeot of the figure more elegant. This is an important point now when the corsages of irioh toilettes are nearly always of Pokm •pfush, or striped satin, or moire. A very 'Striking dress of Pekin plush has the tunic draped high like a curtain on the right hip, but falling in graceful folds on tho left side over a skirt of gauged satin. The Yalois corsage of plush has a gauged plastron of sal in let in back and front. Plush also has taken the place long held by surah for indoor toilettes, not matinees, but elegant dresses suited for receptions. The favourite mode ifl the Princess polonaise, so simple yet elegant, generally of Xsima or plain plush over a satin flkirt ; a tall, queenly figure looks magnificent In thio style ot dress. The following costume may be taken as a model:—The skirt is of pala-blue satin covered with flounces edged with white laoe, and above this is a Princess polonaise or grenate plush quite straight, and falling in graceful pleats to form a train which is edged with a pale blue pleating. Tho polonaise is open in front, the opening being filled to a little below the waist with a blouse of satin ganged at the waist, and trimmed with a riviere ot white laoe mixed with grenat bows, grenat ribbon being tied across the blouse below the wa : atj a sash of pile blue sa'in starts from the edges of the blouse, and ties in a large bow behind. The wide plush sleeves are gauge! at the elbow, and trimmed with lace and grenat ribbon. Seal-brown cashmere still remans one of tho favorite materials for walking dresses, combined with plush or velvet ; one of the prettiest ekirts for snob o dress in in alternate panels of pla n plush and pleated cashmere, a tablier of pleated cashmere being drapea across the front and caught up by bows of moire ribbon. The panniers are ot plush, falling low at the sides and forming the back drapery, the bodice being of cashmere, with coat tails behind and short panels at the •ides, falling over the panniers, and each containing a plnsh pocket. Plush parenmnts and collar, and a plush chapeau with strings of moire ribbon complete the costume. But many walking dresses and visiting costumes are now mode of embroidered cashmere, the embroidery imitating Kicbelien guipure. A dress of myrtle-green cashmere has the square tablier embroidered all round in this minuer with silk of the same color, over a plush

skirt edged with satin pleatings. The fronts of the corsage, cut out en cceur, are embroidered in the same manner over a plush waistcoat, the collar and parements being of the same exquisite embroidery, and ccmDleting a toilette of unrivalled elegance. For young girls’ evening dresses the favorite materials are grenadines interwoven ■with silver, without lace or bead trimmings, but draped and looped with garlands of flowers ; fringes of grass and email flowers, replacing for them the fashionable beaded and chenille fringes. These gauzes are sold at all prices, and their effect by gas or candle-light is beautiful, vieicg with the lovely dress, “ the colour of the moon,” in the fairy tale ; the prices of many of these gauzes is as modest as their effect is brilliant. Ghuzo richly beaded is also used as trimmings for evening dresses, os in a toilette of pale-blue moire and oatiu, a mixture of materials which meets with great success this winter; the tulle is also pala-blue, with blue beads. The moire corsage has a puffed Valois plastron of tulle, and the satin tablier is pleated at the sides and orna mented with a similar shaped point of puffed gauze. The moire train spreads outwards near the edge of the skirt, and this is a point that ladies who wish to make the most of their height would do well to observe. A train that flows from the waist, or a little below, diminishes if anything the height, but it ia the long groofful train that clings close to the figure, till near the ground, and then flows outwards that apparently increases the height and slimness of a figure. But to return to the dress, the paniers and part of the back drapery are of the beaded tulle, and and this tulle also forms the fiohu which drapes the square cat neck. White, oream, or ivory colored silk dresses look magnificent embroidered with imitation pearls. These tints are always the favorite shades, especially for brunettes. At the present moment blondes are especially favored, the most fashionable colors suiting them to perfection, but brunettes are not so fortunate, ns except white, cream, and ivory, very pale tints do not suit them, such as straw color or very pale geld Pink surah and emerald green plush are the contrasting colors and materials forming the following ball dress. The skirt of surah is gauged to fit the figure in front and at the sides, and below this aro two largo bouillonnes separated by wide bands of gauging, on which are placed wreaths of roses; beneath the second wreath is a smaller bouilloano edged with three narrow plentinga ; the train puffs out below the corsage, and is drawn close to the figure by the first wreath, which is just above the knees, and then flows loose, edged with three pleatings. The corsage is of emerald green plush, the basques cut away in front, and very short behind, but with long sides forming flat, pointed robings neatly to the edge of the skirt; the neck is cat very low and draped with pink surah, and the short sleeves consist entirely of surah.