HINTS ON COOKERY.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2506, 19 April 1882, Page 4

HINTS ON COOKERY.

[From “The Queen.”] So many excellent books upon cookery have been given to the public that I feel to enter the lists with those who have written them would be only leaving myself exposed to the tilting of lances, wielded by skilful hands, and should consequently run the risk of being very soon knocked over. Yet, despite the acknowledged excellence of these works relating to gastronomy, it appears to ms that there is much which has not been said in relation to practical cookery and household management, and consequently I shall undertake to give a few hints in a very plain, practical way, not going by any fixed rule or order, but just speaking of things ns they occur to me. A great deal might be said upon the subject of tinned provisions, against which so many persons have a strong pre. judioo—partly, I fancy, because the cooking of them is usually so grievously bad. In my opinion, no well regulated household should bo without a regular supply of certain articles preserved in tins, including roast beef, collared head, ox tongues, salmon, lobsters, oysters, eardinoa, peas, soups of various kinds, and milk. I took a great dislike myself to tinned salmon, from seeing it served in an untidy manner ; but an American cook whom 1 am fortunate enough to possess taught me haw it should be drersed so an to form a most appetising dish. Out round the top of the tin, which place in boiling water for a few moments, until thoroughly heated through, taking care, however, that tho water does not roach euffioiently high to be in danger of flooding tho contents. Have ready some nicely mashed potatoe, which arrange in a wall around a very hot dish; turn tho salmon into the centre of this, remove quickly any pieces of bone which may appear amongst the meat, sprinkle a few oaper) over it, interspersed with morsels of fresh butter, and serve immediately, before it has time to chili. This dish, if properly dressed, could not possibly bo told from the remains of fresh salmon. Bice, boiled same as for ourry, may be-substituted for potatoe, and is preferred by many. Care must be taken, however, to have the grains separated and tender, for nothing is more unsightly than rice cooked in lumps. Boiling in milk is, in every way, preferable to boiling in water, and a little salt should always be added. A delicious way of cooking tinned roast beef is as follows :—Bomovo the moat from the tin, mince it finely, whioh will be an ■easy task, it is so tender, but do not tear it with the fork, or it will be apt to come in strings, place it in a low-sided fiat-bottomed dish, have I ready some good 'gravy, to which a tablespoonful of Harvey or Worcester sauce has been added, pour it around the meat, grate breadcrumbs thickly over it, and bake lightly in the oven until tbs top assumes a rich golden hue and is slightly crisp. A border of pastry is an improvement around the dish ; but if required in a hurry it oanreadily bo dispensed with. Tho nicest vray to dress lobster it to remove it from the tin, chop tho tail very fine, as it is the coarser part, leaving the claw pieces whole. Make n canoe as follows i 3oz of butter, a dessertspoonful of best French arrowroot, a wineglass of water, ditto of vinegar, a teaspoonfal of anchovy sauce, and a little salt; ctir those slowly over the fire, reserving tho butter until the other ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and hot, then put in the lobster, and isimmer for a few moments ; •but do not let it approach a boil. Many per«oeb consider a spoonful of sherry an improvement, If liked, it is, of course, easily added. Tinned oysters are, in my opinion, invaluable in a household. A tin, containing »t least three dozen, can be obtained for ten-

pence, and the flavor is excellent. For nances or pates they are almost aa good as the costliest “ natives,” whilst an appetising bretkfast dish may be made of them by preparing some bread sauce, same as for roast fowl, and adding the oysters, with a little fresh butter, or a spoonful of cream if procurable.

With regard to tinned soups, they can always be made use of in this way. Every properly appointed kitchen should bo supplied with a stock-pot, which should bo utilised according to the cookery books, so that a constant supply of good firm stock be always ready at hand. This should, in summer, be boiled up every day, if not required for immediate ueo, and _in winter every second day, carefully removing even the smallest particle of grease or scum. When soup is required for the daily menu, half fill the soup tureen from the stock pot; add one or two tins of ox-tail or other tinned soap, according to the quantity wanted for table : add a glass of good red wine, and thicken slightly with French arrowroot or very fine pearl sago. This method ia much better than the old one of using flour, as it does not spoil the transparency of the soup. All such atrocities as pea flour for thickening, and burnt oniona for coloring, should bo banished from the kitchen.

Tinned milk is excellent for puddings—much better than ordinary dairy milk. Young housekeepers commencing to use it should, however, remember that a large quantity of sugar has been employed in the preserving of it, and they must make allowance accordingly The price is somewhat higher than that of dairy milk, a# tho eightpenny tin only makes three pints of really good milk, although many persons extend it to a fourth, which is a poor economy. Turning now to another branch of my subject, it seems to mo that a lamentable waste of meat takes place in almost every household. For example, when a sivloin of beef is roasted, the coarser end is left attached to it, and this, in the process of cooking, becomes a dry and shrivelled maes, which is never eaten, either in parlor or kitchen. The meat, when brought homo, should have this coarser end carefully divided from it, and be roasted without it; the piece laid by should be stewed for three hours in a large-sized china-lined pan, with close fitting cover; and if properly done (never being suffered to approach a boil), it will be perfectly tender, and, with the addition of well_ dressed vegetables, served either around it or in separate dishes, will make a dinner “ fit for a prince.” In a small family the oft-repoated question, “ What shall bo done with the oold mutton ?” can bo readily avoided by never cooking a leg or loin whole. It is an oldfashioned and mistaken idea that it spoils a leg to cut it. Divide it evenly in two, remove the bone from the fillet end, and fill the cavity with a carefully prepared veal stuffing ; then cord the lap neatly around it, patting portions of stuffing wherever there appears to be a hollow, and roast or bake, to be served with good brown gravy. The shank end, boiled slowly with turnip# and carrots, and served with caper sauce, makes an excellent dish. When a loin of mutton comes from the butcher’s, remove the centre of it for roasting, and out up tho whole of the tail end, adding to it the two or three first chops, for an Irish stew, whioh is a dish made in many households of the neck and breast of mutton, and is consequently neither so good or substantial as that which is composed of pieces from the loin. It is a good plan, and a saving of much trouble in households, to have supplies ready at hand of things whioh are required for frequent use. Currants picked, washed, and stowed away in a dry place ; raisins stoned ; baked and grated breadcrumbs preserved in bottles for fish and cutlets ; thyme for stuffings picked and stored; suet shred and chopped, &a. By pursuing this course delay and confusion are avoided in the preparation of the day's dinner, lunchson, or supper, as the ease may be. It is also a note-worthy plan to keep a supply of ready made plum puddings in tho store room. These, if properly made—with the due allowance of spices and brandy—and boiled for four hours, will keep good for six or eight months ; and it is often a great convenience, if a side dish is required in a hurry, to have something to slice from ready at hand. In a well regulated household nothing is suffered to go to waste; cheese, when it becomes too hard for table use, ia grated down to serve with macaroni, and bread whioh has grown stale is dried on a pan in the oven, and rolled out fine with a strong wooden roller, for crumbing chops, outlets, or soles. Everything, even the smallest atom, is turned to account; nor are the poor forgotten when the household has been fed. In the ordinary menage of the middle classes I have net found it usual to have soup, fish, and entrees, every day at dinner. I hold it to bo excellent economy to havo them ; or, if tho latter be dispensed with, the two former should always hold good. Where this system of thing is practised, the butcher’s bills are never alarming, and those of tho fishmonger ora not usually otherwise than extremely moderate. There are golden rules for housekeeping, and from these wo should never depart. Be cleanly, be regular, and never suffer an inferior article to oomo into your larder. With close attention to those maxims, the rest will come easy enough. How, a few brief hints upon general matters, and I shall have done. In making coffee, clear it with isinglass, and not with eggs, and serve with it—ia addition to the ordinary jug of boiled milk—a small pitcher of cream and a bowl of Demerara sugar. Do not cover jam, except with rounds of tissue paper dipped in brandy, and pressed close upon the top of each pot; if the preserve has been properly made—that is equal weights of sugar and fruit, and boiled sufficiently—ib will keep well for twelve months, without being what is termed “ covered down ” —of course I mean provided it be kept in a dry place. Broil steak without salting, as salt draws the juices, and cook over a hot, clear fire, turning frequently with tongs. In icing cakes, dip your knife frequently in oold water. Never send tea to table without sliced lemon ; it ia frequently liked by persona who do not take milk.

Beef whioh has a tendency to be tough can bo made tender by stewing very gently for two hours with pepper and salt, letting out about a pint of liquid when done, and allowing the remainder to boil into tho meat. After taking up, make gravy of the liquid saved.

If your cooking fire is slow, throw on a little salt; it will help it very much. In muking pastry do not spare butter, and let it be of the very beat. Always arrange - be the household large or small—that each person, more especially each visitor, shall have a separate breakfast equipage, and each a separate salt collar at dinner. This saves the continual “handing about,” which is the destroying element of bo many otherwise comfortable and well appointed tables.