CHEESE AND BUTTER MAKING.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2233, 25 April 1881, Page 3

CHEESE AND BUTTER MAKING.

A very interesting and instructive lecture on the above subject was delivered on Saturday afternoon in tbe rooms of the Agricultural and Pastoral Association by Mr Bowron. Tho ohair was occupied by Mr J. R. Hill, President of the Association, and there was a very good attendance. The chairman briefly introduced Mr Bowron, referring to the importance of the subject of the establishment of dairies.

Mr Bowron said, Gentlemen, —Judging from all the information which can be gathered from hearing, reading and observation, I have oomo to the conclusion that for you and your children’s children you have made a happy choice. It is much to say, but you may rest assured of one fact, you have the finest climate in the world, and that is a grand starting point for the great battle of life. You have a splendid seaboard, broad rivers, beautiful lakes, and good roads, suoh as no European country can surpass and few equal. You have every variety of soil, from the fine deep loam to the arid sands, adapted for the produce of all lands. You are canopied by a lofty sky, cheered by a genial sun, whose warm rays are tempered by a cool evening breeze from tho ocean. More still, you have vast tracts of mineral wealth, rich volleys, and millions of broad acres which only need your magio touch and forthwith rivers of wealth will flow, kissing the hand of industry, rewarding patient toil, and wiping away the sweat from the furrowed brow. Mines aro excellent things in their place, but precarious at best. In them fortunes are won by a few, but lost by many. There is no uncertainty about tho farm, and bub little about the seasons in this beautiful colony. When I look at your large paddocks, waving with golden grain, yielding 40, 50, and 60 bushels to the acre, I say unhesitatingly that you gentlemen may stand upon your highest mount, shake your eceptro over the seas, and challenge the world to rival that. Your flocks are numerous, in size and quality splendid, but what astonished me most are your herds, the pastures seemed to me poor, tho grass old, withered, and dry, yet the cows were fat and milking well, and from cow* in fine condition you get the richest milk. It is this which convinces roe that your soil is a perennial spring of domestic and national wealth, which will flow on for a thousand ages, and still retain its vigor to flow on so long as the sun shines and the clouds weep. I would further state I never ■aw a flourishing agricultural district in Eogland, Ireland, Sweden, Germany, France, or America, where there were not also prosperous inland towns. Tradesmen flourish, merchants prosper, and contribute largely toward the revenue whioh flows in to the Chancellor’s Exchequer, and gives him a solid basis upon whioh to stand, nor does his hand tremble while he holds the balancesheet, or his language falter while he delivers to tho august assembly, the people’s representatives, tho fruit of one year’s toil. Cultivate your land, invest your capital, and fear not the results. The soil is unselfish, yon never spend a sovereign injudiciously, or one drop of sweat in vain - this Bank never breaks, never ignores its responsibilities. Fear not to invest. She soon returns capital with compound interest for your sons to invest in other fields. Now to my point—to arrive at correct conclusions wo must weigh everything, weigh them in just balances and with correct weights. Soils vary considerably, and the cultivation must vary accordingly, and the seeds sown must be adapted to the soil. The experienced farmer Boon finds out what kind of soil produces the best potatoes, and every other root. Then to keep your farms healthy, and full of vigor, ths crops must bo varied. To take two or three crops of wheat in succession ia not wise, except you want all that can be got, and leave others to contend with the after consequences. The world wants bread, tha mighty million-peopled cities want broad, consequently wheat is gold, and everybody wants as much as they can get of that precious commodity. Once standing in a large American cheese factory, I said to the proprietor, “ Well, sir, you are going in for quantity ! ” “Yes,” he responded, with a suppressed smile, “ Cheese is gold. We turn out the cheese, and in six weeks the gold rolls back again.” Well, gentlemen, you may never be able to say that, but only produce the article, and be sure the gold will come to your satisfaction. The first feature in this groat field of enterprise is the oow. It is not what blood flows in her veins F Is it Booth or Bates ? No, but simply what kind of food do you give her. Whatever tbe oow feeds on is manufactured into milk, and retains its properties and flavour. Never allow this point to escape your notice. To impress your minds with this point, I will name a few facts. I will take a fire Somerset dairy whioh I had for many years, and so confident was I iu its goodness that I rarely went to see it. One season the first draft came to hand so discolored aud bad in flavour that I wrote to say I must return it. Tho response came —“ I know tho cause ; sell it for anything you can get, pay yourself, and if there is any balance return it to me.” The cause was this : In the autumn of tho previous year ho manured one meadow, the grass oamo early in tho spring, and while tho cows were eating that grass the cheese was worthless for all practical purposes. Now take one case from Cheshire. The farmers were induced, through persuasion, to try a liquid manure of partly dissolved bones. Their pastures were saturated with it, and produced abundance of grass, but the cheese was quite unmarketable. Just another instance. When the great Loudon sewer was completed, and delivered its contents at tbe appointed destination, a large tract of land was secured by a respectable company, with plenty of capital at command. Largo sheds were built, and filled with good cows. Tho land was flooded with the sewage, and produced abundance of grass. With a great flourish of trumpets, and liveried servants, the company commenced to supply London with milk, but it was soon discovered that the dark fluids swept from the closets were supplying their tea-tables, only changed in color; so that speculation Boon came to an end. 1 A mixture of food, hay, and grass, affect the * cheese. The budding leaves in the spring

and the withered leaves in the autumi materially affect the quality. Turnips ant cabbages are particularly avoided during tb< cheese-making season. A good oheese-makoi knows when cows change their food, withoul any one telling him. It is only practical men, with keen observation, who can under' stand the changes which food produces in the milk, and he of course varies his process to meet the contingencies of the case. If 1 offer a few remarks upon the varied processes os cheese-making, I hope I shall not be thought presumptuous. Systems vary considerably, not only in countries, but in shires. The first stops aro very much the same in all cases. Now wo will take the Somerset, or what is called in London, Cheddar. First, the evening’s milk is run into a largo vat ; in the morning the cream is removed, melted, and then returned. The morning's milk is amalgamated with that of the previous evening. By means of hot water pipes the temperature of the milk is raised to 84 or 86 degrees. The coloring and rennet being well stirred in, the milk is then covered with a thick rug. In cold weather thie point must be strictly observed, or the rennet will not act properly. If all the chemical changes which now take place are not interrupted, in one hour the curd will bo ready to break down. Then about half of the whey is placed in a copper and heated, and the curd scalded. The temperature is varied according to the season and food on which the cows have been fed. This is a very important part of the process, occupying about one hour, and the maker never leaves the curd for one minute, constantly testing the heat by the thermometer, and stirring the curd the whole time, when complete the curd is in small round balls, about the size of large shot corns. I never remember the temperature in the scald being raised higher than 96 or 98 degrees, and that only in the fall of the year. All the whey is next drained from the vat. The curd is then placed in a rough cloth at the bottom of the vat, then with a hand screw fixed on the top, a considerable quantity of whey is pressed out. Then slice the curd, and place it edgeways in an open cooler, where it should be kept warm that more of the whey may drain out. Some one may perhaps ask, “ Why not do all this at once, by putting it under a heavy pressure at first ?” My answer is, that by that means a large proportion of the butter would be pressed out, and one secret of good cheesemaking is to keep it all in. The next process is to break up the curd, place it in small vats, and use the press say for one hour ; but not to the fall extent of its pressure. Then grind it in the cooler into small pieces, stir it occasionally to let all the animal boat evaporate, and let it remain until evening. When the curd begins to turn slightly sour, salt it, and finally place it in the proper mould, and in the press. Such ore the processes through which Cheddar cheese pass in their manufactory, varied according to circumstances, but not materially. They all aim at one point. Some cannot spare the time, and give the attention they ought to, but generally miss the mark and get very considerably less for their cheese. Wiltshire and Double Glo’etor are made very similarly. Tbe size of the Ohodder vary according to the number of cows, from 561bs up to lOOlbs, the Glo’ster and Wilts from 241bs to 281bs. The processes in making the Ohedder and the Qlo’ster are the same np to the scalding. The latter is not scalded so high, cooled quicker, and is in the press by noon frequently, some lot it remain in the cooler a little longer. Wensleydale cheese, of high repute in the north of England, is about tbe same size as the Glo’ster. Some of the dairies are not salted until they leave the press, then well rubbed with salt, and placed in a pickle tub, the brine in which is without any mixture of water, but simply dissolved salt. This process makes the crust very hard, and it is a question whether it this process were adopted, the cheese could not bo moved from the dairy much quicker, and that is a material consideration. I should never attempt to try it on a large cheese, but only on the smaller kinds, such as Glo’ster, North Wilts, or Somerset Loaf. The two latter are the best for standing the heat of tbe tropics I ever tried. They suit small dairies very well, but in factories the time could not be spared in making small cheeses from 61b to 121 b. Cotherstone and Stilton cheese are fancy kinds, which, when well marie, will bring a fancy price—from Is to Is 6d per lb. People in London are made to believe that Stilton cheese is made of milk richer than the cow gives ; that is to say, the cream is taken from the evening’s milk and mixed with tbe morning’s, and that of this the cheese is made, but that is all moonshine. I do not say it never has been done, or is not done, but it is a rare occurrence, and done only for very particular purposes. The process is the same as with other cheese, until the curd is firm enough to break down. It is then placed into coarse cheese cloth, the curds with the whey, then placed upon say a basket lid or something similar, and the whey gradually drains away. It requires moving frequently, and soon is a cake of firm curd. It is then sliced, and placed in a cooler, allowing the whey to drop away. Then toward the evening it is broken into pieces, dropped into a mould having a loose-bottom, and salted in the mould as it is filled up, say, salt to every three inches of curd. The mould, for the first three hours, will require frequently to be filled. When once firmly set it will require turning once a day until ready to leave the mould. Then the outside is made smooth with the back of a knife. A bandage is pinned tight round to keep it from the flies, and in proper shape. At a certain stags of the ripening process it is perforated with a thick needle to allow the air to penetrate ; whore the whey has passed the air will follow, and a beautiful blue vein is tbe result, and a Stilton cheese worth Is 6d to Is 8d per lb. If a number of these small outside dairies with five or six cows, only understood this process, and would make a prime 101 b Stilton, your best hotels and wealthy cities would be no mean customers. Who I wonder in Christchurch would not like to taste a prime ripe Stilton made in New Zealand. Proper cheese salt is of finer quality than what I have seen here. The rennet also is of considerable importance. I remember a company who wero going to revolutionise that branch of the trade; they oommenoed to sell much cheaper than others, but after many tons of cheese had been spoiled, it was discovered that a considerable per centage of the rennet was composed of vitriol. I know not what science may accomplish in the future, but I have seen nothing yet to equal the calf ’a stomach or veils as we call them. The cheese-maker generally purchases as many dozens of veils as will be sufficient for the season, they are then steeped in hot water until all tbe strength is taken out, to every dozen veils the juice of six or eight lemons is added, the liquid is then put into stone bottles for use as required. All cheese makers in England whom I have known have made their own rennet. Now, with reference to the superiority of factories over small dairies. For argument’s sake, we will take a district comprised of twenty dairies. That demauds tbe time and skill of twenty cheesemakers, some of whom are perhaps good makers, while others are indifferent. Many dairies are spoiled because proper attention is not given at the right time. To me the difficulties are patent, and I am sure there are many good housewives who could also explain them, when there are babies crying and dinners to be cooked, and a deficiency of hands to do it. The number of cows in each dairy varies perhaps from 8 to 40. So in twenty dairies, you have twenty makers, each using different processes. As a natural consequence, the size, color, and quality of the cfioese very materially differ. Not only the bulk varies considerably, but each dairy is wonderfully dissimilar, which arises from many causes, whioh no dairy maid can control. Some are rich, having all the butter iu them; others are poor, having all the butter taken out. Now look at the factory. Say the twenty dairies referred to wero to average thirty cowe each, that would give a total of 600. A fairly good average oow will give 3 gallons of milk each day during the cheese season. That would amount to 1800 gallons of milk, whioh would be equivalent to 18001 b of cheese. Now, here is the great advantage. One clear head and practical mind superintends the whole; that is his sole business, and there is nothing else to divide his attention. From the 1800 gals, of milk you have 16 cwt. of cheese per day, or 5 tons 12J owt. per week, the size, color and quality of which are the same. Then by proper attention 20 tons would be ready for export in the course of eight weeks, and, once started, a regular quantity would bo ready every month, or when you have vessels prepared to take them. Then there is the advantage in saving of labor; five hands in the factory will do the work of twenty out of it. The five in the factory will make you good marketable property, whereas the twenty outaide would probably spoil a large proportion of the bulk. Then there is another great advantage when they arrive at their destination, when the mer-

i chant sees one he can form a pretty correct idea of the whole, of the purpose they will suit, and the price he can give. Ido not shut my eyes to the many difficulties whioh would have to be encountered before a factory of this kind could be established, but as Philip the Second in a case of considerable perplexity exclaimed, “ Time and I work wonders ! ” so say you, gentlemen, “Time and we will scale the difficulties over tho hills and far away.” It is thought that the greatest difficulty to overcome is the heat of tho tropics, but it is not so, tho greatest difficulty you have to meet is a master mind to make your cheese, and to teach others the same trick. Give me a sound, well-made cheese, end I will pack it to go round tho world, and return home, sound BS when it started. Now look at tho packing. This is really the second matter of importance, well - made cheese may be ruined in tho packing. Every cheese should bo kept separate. Their tendency is to grow together, and in separating them the crust is sure to break. Bo a box with two or three compartments is necessary. But the beet method, and the only secure one, is to have for each cheese a separate round box, with a lid, which a few nails will secure. They are handy to move, and you can pack them to any height you may think proper. The cheese when taken from the press should be placed in the box and taken to the proper store room. Young cheese must bo turned regularly so long as they remoin in the factory. Extreme heat or cold is equally injurious during the ripening process. Young cheese require a temperature of GSdeg. to 70deg. The warmer they are the sooner they ripen, but care should bo taken not to force them prematurely, and if possible numerous transitions from heat to cold should be avoided. Two cases will illustrate this point. In Somersetshire there stood a farm house down in a hollow, 300 years old, the thatch was more than a yard thick, and tho old windows were small specimens of ancient architecture. The occupier was an excellent tenant, so the landlord built him a new house, but the summer heat penetrated through the roof of slate, and the largo modern windows lot in too much light, and partially spoiled the cheese as a consequence. It was tried another year, with the same results. Then the cheese wore taken bock to their old loft, with little light and plenty of cobwebs, and they came out good. On tho point of transit, much could be said. The time was when Cheshire cheese came to London by sea. Ships wero fitted up expressly for the purpose. Sometimes they would be throe, or four weeks in the Channel, but time ou the water improved the cheese. No boxes wero required, only proper fittings from whioh no tempest could move them. It is not the voyage either at this end or the other whioh will injnre the cheese, providing they are properly packed, and the tropical heat neutralised as much as possible. Now I will touch on the manufacture of butter. Butter is a wonderful article of commerce, for whioh there is, and ever will be, an increasing demand. Liverpool, Manchester, and all the great centres of tho busy world, continue to increase. London with her teeming millions, and an annual increase of 80,000 to tho mighty throng, every year makes larger demands upon the world, and is ever crying, Give 1 give 1 England has reached the extent of her resources and can do no more, her butter and cheese supply diminishes every year, from the fact that thousands of large dairies, which twenty years ago sent butter and cheese, now send the milk instead. The first churn of milk ever sent to London from a distance of 110 miles, was sent by the man who now stands before you. Now thousands go every day, and the number is increased every year. Prom this fact England can do no more. Home produce diminishes as the population increases. Sweden, Denmark, and Holland can do no more than they are doing. France and the Channel Islands are putting forth great efforts to meet the demand. Whenever a prime article is sent, there is wonderful competition in London for it, and he wins who can put down the cash. That must be yonr point, gentlemen, first tho quality, then the cash. The next question is—How ia it to be done ? Now, gentlemen, will yon pledge yourselves to do everything as I tell yon, regularly and by simple rule ? Why didn’t you bring your wives and your daughters with you. I could always manage the ladiea bettor than the gentlemen, excepting when I had to purchase of them. I wifi tell you an incident that once occurred. The cheese were usually made by the good lady of the house; for certain reasons she could not rise at her usual time, so a young daughter, pretty well taught hod to take her place. Standing by the cheese tub, I said, *' Sarah, observe one point, and your cheese will exceed your mother’s 5” She gave all diligence, and accomplished her purpose. Her cheese took the first prize, and the result was, there were twenty young men wanted Sarah to make their cheese next year. It’s wonderful how one thing leads to another. Now, first. The factory should be in the most convenient position yon can command, where you can have rail, river, or good rood communication. You can have butter, cheese, and milk condensing factory all together if it would best suit your purpose. Secondly. Every dairy and all its utensils must be kept perfectly clean. There must be no soar milk, or bad smells from foul drains, or pigsties near. Thirdly. There must be a cold water tank in the dairy. Tho best arrangement ia to have it in the centre, and the water it contains shonld be about 2ft. deep. The tins containing the milk should be about 32in. high, with a capacity of holding 2gals. of milk, The colder the temperature tbe more will be the cream, and the better tbe quality. Fourthly. Always take the cream off young; in hot weather at twelve or fourteen hours. Let the milk stand twenty hours longer and skim again. Thou you have first and second butter, the first always good, the second often inferior. The seconds will be about one-sixth of the whole. It is not absolutely necessary to attend to this process throughout tbe whole season, but especially in the spring and fall of the year. Fifthly. The butter must be churned three times every week during warm weather, twice if cold. But observe, it is decidedly best to churn every day. The younger the cream the bettor will be the butter. What you really could not do at home the factory will do for you, only forward good fresh cream, and success is certain. There is another course whioh could be adopted. That is, send your milk to the factory, let the cream be raised there, take twelve hours’ cream from the milk, the remainder should be condensed for home and foreign markets. Do not suppose when you purchase condensed milk, that it is fine thick cream, all that I have Been manufactured the butter was taken out of and substituted by sugar. With regard to preserving butter, I have no faith in any process. Tho best of batter exposed to light and air will change its properties iu three days. I will not condemn the Aylesbury process until I have tested it under circumstances similar to theirs. Their cream io generally fresh from the country, and not more than twelve hours old when separated from the milk. It will arrive in London about ten ia tho morning, so it may be in tbe form of butter twenty hours after tbe oow is milked. Now let me have 201bs of butter from your dairy, the same age, then I would salt it, and place lOlbs in one jar with only salt, tho other with salt and the preservative, then at the end of three or four months there will be a fine test. Do not lose sight of tho splendid opportunity which tho Colonial Government has offered. The prize of £IOOO is sure to be yours if you goto work at once. 600 cows will make the quantity in five weeks, deliver it iu London in the month of February, and success is certain. Then go in for the ohetso. Butter factories aro of Swedish growth. Cheese factories are peculiar to America. There are two plans open. You may form a private company, build your factory, and charge say id per lb for manufacturing the cheese, that is done in Canada, and I believe the United Stales also. The next is the oo- operative system. Begin with say a capital of £SOOO, call up what you require. S-y you want £IOOO for plant, &3. All contingent expenses and manager’s salary would bo paid from your invested capital, and the charges proportioned to each member according to the quantity of cheese manufactured. The other question is the whey, which is a very important item in England. In fattening pigs, tho British farmer mates from 40s to 60s from each cow. Yon could take the whey homo or fatten on the promises. Sheds could be constructed, so that one man might feed 100 pigs in fifteen minutes. Then another question may crop up. Ought the company to purchase a farm, and milk a dairy. With me the pig manure cannot be estimated too highly. With a paddock for breeding sows, and sheds for fattening purposes, the manure would be equivalent to the rent of a email farm. Some discussion on the subject followed, and, on tho motion of Mr Henderson, seconded by Mr Norman, a vote of thanks was passed to Mr Bowron for his very interesting lecture.