LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2180, 19 February 1881, Page 3

LONDON FASHIONS.

[“ Queon.”J

As Christmas time approaches, a number of pretty accessories, which tend to give finish to a toilette, appear. Feather fans are made of small flat feathers, say of a grey tone, on which are a border and centre design of green metallic feathers. Sometimes the latter takes the form of a monogram, sometimes of a small bird. The most fashionable fans have tortoiseshell frames, and ribs of metallic green or of peafowl feathers. After the feather fans, none are more used than large red plush ones with gold sticks. Other dressy knicknaeks ore cuffs and collars made of blaok or blue ribbed silk, trimmed with half inch wide gold braid; these are sold in sets, and muoh enliven dark dresses.

There are many weddings going on just now, and there are two points to chronicle in brides’ toilettes. The skirts of the drosses seldom have any orange blossoms, and the tulle veils— far more comma ilfaut than lace—ore aa often as not worn at the sides and book, and not over the face, secured by diamond pins. There is a change in fashion of hairdressing, and Messrs Clarke and Co , of Sloane square, have brought out many novelties, and so natural that they defy detection, every face being specially studied. The firm have been particularly skilful in arrangements for concealing bald crowns; for, instead of covering them thickly with hair, and so destroying any hope of the head recovering itself, by an ingenious contrivance the foundations to which the hair is attached is placed above and below the bald patch, a thin layer of hair only being drawn over it. This foundation is not of woven hair, but of the finest gauze, into which the hair is knotted, each one separately. The weight is merely nominal. H.B.H. the Princess of Woles and other leaders of fashion have of late adopted undulated hair, instead of tiny curls, to fall over the forehead ; and small fringes of this class, the most natural-looking things possible, arc among Messrs Clarke’s novelties. Small curled tonpeta, just to lay on the front when the hair is dressed, without the wearer having to out the front, are arranged on a now principle. Only quite young girls are now content with the curled fringe and a coil at the back ; those past girlhood adopt small flat curls, or marteaux, over the top of the head, and the firm are selling a curled postioha without any foundation at all, to meet this want. It is a double row of flat curls attached to strips of narrow ribbon, and intended to come from the fringe to tLe coil; nothing could be lighter or more real; if preferred, the coil may be done away with, ana the end of this be allowed to droop at the back of the neck. These several headdresses are so arranged that, with a little care, they require to bo but seldom dressed, and keep in order for a long time, for they are made of naturally onrling hair. It is wel Ito know that the using of irons, which is apt to lighten the color and spoil the hair, may be

t greatly obviated by placing such headdresses i occasionally before the fire and in the open, i There is a new skating costume, of ribbed i vicuna and stockingette, in such shades as i very dark green, claret, and brown. The i short skirt has a plaited flounce, and over it a ■ tunio, which forms a double point in front, ■ and is bordered with fur and lined through--1 out with soft woollen check. The long I jacket, also bordered with fur, fits the figure I closely, and opens diagonally, being fastened with gold buttons, and round the throat is what is extremely fashionable now, a fur ruff i coming close up under the chin, and about six inches deep. Tailor made dresses this winter are fuller and more flowing than hitherto. A new and useful costume is of dark almost invisible check, has three cross-cut narrow flounces round the skirt, a tunio gathered perpendicularly in front, the fullness caught down here and there, so that it has the appearance of being puckered all over. The train piece falls in three puffs, and the long well-out jacket bodice fits closely. The newest shooting costume is a very short cloth skirt and plain tunio, with an extra flounce, intended to bo buttoned on the skirt for ordinary walking wear ; for shooting the suits are required quite short, knickerbockers of the same material as the dress are worn with them, and gaiters of the same, buttoning up the calf. The jacket is of the Norfolk order, except one marked improvement, viz., that the box plaits no longer start from the shoulders, giving undue thickness to the figure 5 but from the bust there is a pad for the gun on one side, which looks like business, and a little ornamental stitching is introduced in silk at the side of the pockets. Quite a new style of coat has a double cape, each bound with cord and turned back with buttons in front, showing a velvet reverse. The buttons used are large silver ones, which appear all down tho front in a double row, for the bodice is double-breasted. It describes three tight skirts, each edged with cord, the lower buttoning off low. Long frock coats, double-breasted, are the most fashionable outdoor garment for country wear. Jersey bodices for evenings are being superseded by seamed bodices, out in elastic silk, and fastened with very small buttons down tho front; this ensures a perfect fit. Dressy caps for the evening are made with cream lace and a red plush crown. These | are attached to the hair by large-headed pins. The large square collars are much worn for both morning and evening wear. They are either of muslin or cambric, trimmed with lace. Some are made from fancy-bordered handkerchiefs. Half of the handkerchief forms tho square collar shaped to the neck, and half is arranged as a pretty knot for tho front. Evening lace handkerchiefs, as well as fancy silk ones, are now arranged as bows or knots, and worn in front of tho dress. Very delicate gold lace it ■ used on silk and plush ties ; if broad, it is put on plain, but if narrow, sewn on alternately with cream or black lace of the same width.

Borne of the newest ties for the neck are composed of a strip of colored gauze, bordered on each side with satin. They are very wide, and are tied in a large bow under the chin. The satin and gauzes are usually of the same color, but navy-blue and red is a favorite mixture just now. Fur hoods are novelties. They are finished eff with wide brown or black satin loops in front. Cuffs to match are frequently worn. Some of the new boots are buttoned very far back at the sides, behind the ankle bone. They are supposed to be more becoming to the foot, but are more quaint than pretty. The slippers are very elaborate, and some have a row of beads all round the edge. In black they are jet, in white, pearls.