TRIMMINGS.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1770, 22 October 1879, Page 4

TRIMMINGS.

[“ Milliner and Dressmaker.” J No diminution in trimmings is yet apparent on dresses or mantles, but, despite the prophets, a very perceptible increase. Prominent in the list of those most used are the finely-beaded passementeries, which reproduce some of the designs with which we are familiar, while the more expensive grades represent leaf patterns of various forms, with perfectly executed tulips or fuchsias depending from the centre of the leaf. Some of the passementeries are relieved and brightened by a delicate tracery of gold or silver threads interspersed so as to form arabesque or Grecian designs throughout the pattern. The effect is rich, but by no means gaudy, and the styles and prices are such as to render these goods rather exclnlive, for a time at least. Exact reproductions of these elegant passementeries may be had made of fine silk cord, but minus the jets, which cost the same, and are used by those ladies whose taste inclines to something refined, yet not so showy as the sparkling jets ; satin balls and olives are plentifully interspersed, and depend from the centre of the tulip or fuchsia. Painted bands for dresses are seen of exquisite design and artistic beauty. These are painted by hand on velvet, satin, and silk. Flowers in all their richest tiats, birds of brilliant plumage, jewels, shells, and musical instruments are painted with skill and fidelity to nature on these beautiful and artistic trimmings. Fringes have by no means lost their prestige, and may he had in as great diversity of design as there is diversity of taste. The average depth of fringes is from about four to six inches, including the heading. The novelty of these fringes consists in the variety of new style “ crimps ” used on the braids—the braids being of silk, and varying in width from one-sixteenth to half an inch. Basket patterns, “ shoe-string ” effects, waffle designs, perpendicular stripes, bias or diagonal lines and glazed spaces, all combined to render the new fringes attractive. An entirely new fringe is formed of a haud-crotcheted heading, back-ground of twist, and front of crimped tape and bands of narrow passementerie interspersed with strands of crotcheted silk, the ends of tho passementerie bands finishing with a tiny satin or crocheted ball. Plainer fringes, in cascade effects, with the narrowest possible beading, and composed of plain twist, crimped braids, and crimped twist, with occasionally a strand of chenille flattened in inch places, and left in its natural condition

in the intervening places ; these are used either iu combination with headings of narrow passementerie, or full rnchings of ribbon or silk ; or, if a plainer style of garnitnro ia desired, the heading is sewed on by taming the fringe back, and nothing else ia added, as the fringe will naturally fall into place and conceal the sowing. Woollen fringes are no longer considered fashionable, although very neat patterns are still sparingly used on all-wool garments where there are ends of drapery to be trimmed. Plain hems and rows of machine stitching are the most stylish finish on all other parts of all-wool costumes. Fancy ribbons are largely used for loops, and in some designs form a complete cascade down the front of the dress. These ribbons vary in width from half an inch two inches and a half, and are of all colors and shades of satin. The variety of buttons is undiminished, and the novelty in designs is remarkable considering the diversity of those of past seasons. Metal buttons, both round as bullets and flat as possible, vie in favor with what ia called a “ half ball ” or “ dome ” shape button, while yet another shape is a happy mean between the dome and the flat. Japanese designs relieve these metal buttons and give them the appearance of jewels, as many of the devices are executed in raised enamel of red, yellow, white, blue or green, and represent flowers, foliage, birds, insects, and tiny animals in natural and most grotesque attitudes. These buttons are largely used on ladies’ vests. Then there are gilt, steel cut in facets, silver and bronze, which come in open-work designs, reproducing filigree and wheel effects ; some of these have a white or goldfish pearl centre —the trade name for the rose-colored pearl—others a steel centre, and others still a jet metal centre, or gilt aud silver combined to form a little gem. Very beautiful and novel buttons are painted by hand. These are sometimes the work of regular artists, but, in many cases, are painted by the wearers themselves. The designs are artistic and the painting carefully executed ; and while each button differs, the general effect is that of harmony. Various designs are seen, including copies of fine mosaics. Medium sizes only, in any kind of button, are fashionable ; and the quantity used is totally dependent upon the style of the garment, some requiring only what will fasten the vest, and others a sufficient number to outline the cuffs, pockets, Ac.