LADIES’ COLUMN.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1683, 12 July 1879, Page 3

LADIES’ COLUMN.

THE FASHIONS IN PARIS AND LONDON. [“ Milliner and Dressmaker ”] It has been the fashion of late to rail against what is called the “extravagance of the present times, some people even venturing to assert that never before was dress so costly or so fantastic. We must contradict the first assertion most emphatically, by stating as a fact that the most expensive of all the rich dresses that have been worn of late were tho se which were reproduction of some of the olden times ; and, happily, now the materials of which they are composed cost less than they did when the originals were made. Not only these, but all materials are cheaper than they used to be, while the improvement in them, particularly those of wool, has been a marked one.* We cannot deny that attire has of late become rather fanciful, but we hail the great variety in style as a good change from the rigid adoption of one to all figures, whether stout or thin, fair or dark, plain or beautiful. Now every one has a chance (if they can afford to dress well) of looking their best by wearing exactly what is most becoming, without any fear of being singular, and this liberty of taste has certainly shown a good result, judging from the many pretty costumes we see. Some people (graceful and pretty women generally) have adopted the Greek dress, or one equally untrimmed and simple, but let not the uninitiated fancy that thes; toilets cost very much less than the more elaborate ones. The very fact of their simplicity and absence of ornament renders it the more necessary that the materials of which they are composed should be of tho richest, the cut and style perfect, and the small amount of lace, &c. used, the choicest that can be bad. Mark an apparently simple one of dark blue velvet. The material itself is of the richest, end it is entirely lined with silk to match in color, while the lace which forms the ruffles at throat and wrist is the finest old English point The Spring costumes are later than usual in making their appearance, and very few people are hardy enough to venture to put away their winter attire. The cold weather has lasted very long, and though a change for the better is just now gladdening our hearts, we may safely say that we shall have many an east wind before warmer weather is established; and, therefore, we are wisely choosing materials for Spring costumes tolerably warm in texture, though lighter in color. Very charming are some of the new Spring fabrics, and those of Fekin are specially pretty. There is an immense variety in these, some having single and others double stripes. In the latter case they are generally very fine ones, very close together, and sometimes of two different colors. For example, one with a creamcolored ground, has stripes of marjolaine and pale blue ; another has stripes of pale and dark blue upon a mastic ground; and another has stripes of violet and mauve upon a ground of dove color. These Pekins are really beautiful materials, combining the softness of a foulard with the brightness of a satin, and they form most charming trimmings to dresses of plain faille or satin. Another fashionable trimming material just now is Roman silk, which is a great deal prettier than plaid, and upon white silk, dresses it looks extremely well. We find the Roman colors also upon cambric, the grounds of which are dark. These are, of course, for morning toilets, as are also the new chintz foulards and cotton satteeus. Very pretty and picturesque dresses are made of these two last-named materials, the style, with its elbow sleeves and bows of satin, reminding one of Dresden china shepherdesses or Dolly Vardan costumes. I have seen rno of the foulards, a dovecolored one with blue flowers scattered over it, made up very p ettily. The skirt is short, and had all round it three narrow killings of the same material, edged with white° Breton lace. About eight inches apart, on each flounce, are loops of pale blue satin ribbon, arranged so as to show their crimson lining. The front part of the skirt is plain, and the back baa rather boultanpaniers edged with a kilting trimmed with lacc, which are caught up here and there with bows of wider ribbon to match that upon tho flounces. On either side, where the fulness of the back part of the skirt begins, from the waist to the top of the flounces, a>-e cascades of lace in which arc loops of ribbon, which in this case i 3 P with the crimson outwards and the blue to form the lining. The bodice ia_ a pointed one, laced np the front, and over it is a fichu of folds of muslin trimmed with lace fastened in front with a knot of ribbon. .Nearly the whole of the tablier is covered by one of the pretty morning aprons now finding such favor with young ladies especially. It is a rounded one of muslin with small bib, which pins up upon the front of the bodice, and is trimmed all round with a double pleated frill of Breton lace, and tied back with ribbon to match that upon the dress, knots of which also ornament tho lace trimmed pockets. These aprons are a very pretty fancy for morning home dresses, and are made or various materials. Those of thick material, of 6orn or tea color, embroidered in crewels, are charming when worn over dark dresses of cashmere or serge, tied back with ribbons to match the flowers with which they are embroidered. To make the toilet more complete, a small cap, formed of tho handkerchiefs now sold for this purpose, is added. Paniers are now to bo seen worn with every dress, and the fronts are generally draped with ’folds or gathered fulness. Tunics seem almost abolished, as all the skirt of the dtess is made upon ons foundation, to which whatever there is in tho way of drapery or trimming is sewn. ... There are some new materials m light cloth, one called Tungore, being a very soft li'dit one, which is made in a great many colors and patterns, amongst which <scru, with various stripes and dashes of color, is,

Ipe haps, the most effective. Cambrian twill [is another pretty woollen material, which is made chiefly in dark colors, such as olive, claret, and peacock blue, and it makes very pretty costumes of laVeuse style the' turned-up front being lined with some good contrasting color in faille or satin, or with tartan. An improvement upon the Workhouse Sheeting, so fashionable for young ladies’ morning dresses last year, is the Oatmeal Cloth, a creamy white fabric, very firm and strong, which makes up very well. Amongst richer materials, the prettiest new one I have seen is called “ Soie Elzevir,” It is like crape, being crimped all over, aud is made in all the pretty new shades of color. Dolman mantles are again coming into favor, and for Spring ones, the new brocaded cloths, Cashmeres and Chuddahs, will be nsed, ornamented with bands of Ffekio, beaded or jetted brails, aud handsome fringes of chenille and crimped silk. Spring jackets of dark blue or green cloth are untrimmed, with treble rows of stitching at the edges, and pearl buttons. They are of medium length, and nearly tightfitting, some having a plastron front, or' under-vest of velvet. Later on, capes and pelerines will take the place of these Spring confections, and will be made entirely of lace or jetted passementerie ; bufr it is yet too cold for such slight coverings. All outdoor costumes are still short, aud ss yet rather dark in color, though they are relieved by the brightest of trimmings ; but later, when the weather, we may hope, will be a little brighter and warmer, the costumes will be of lighter tints and gayer colors than they have been for some years. Nearly all the bonnets are of lace, Pekin gauze, or faille and velvet, now that the straw and chip ones are out of favor—a fact greatly to be regretted at this time of the year, for nothing seemed more suitable than they were for Spring attire. A few straw ones however, are to be seen, and one or two* Paris models we may describe. Chapeau of black rice straw, Directoire in shape, lined with that called Faille d’ltalie. Both broad brim and curtain (the latter a waved one) are lined with this. The trimming consists solely of a plume of black feathers in front of the crown, falling over it, and strings of fine silk guipure. These strings, crossing the crown under the feathers, are fastened upon the curtain with a gold ornament, and are tied under the chin. A very pretty black lace bonnet is simply ornamented with a band of old gold velvet and a tea rose and leaves. Another very simple one is made entirely of white Breton lace, with strings of the same, with here and there small bouquets of pink rosebuds —a fashionable flower just now, by the way. A more elaborate one is of white felt, lined with old gold satin, gathered very full, and drawn in with gold beads, matching in color. Round the crown is a torsade of

satin, ending with one long end, fringed with old gold. Loops of the same hold a long white feather, which goes nearly all round the crown, over the satin band, and crosses the end behind.

The most fashionable flowers are just now rosebuds and mimosa blossoms, and I think that not only these but all flowers were never before so closely copied from nature, and, as a natural consequence, so beautiful. FASHIONS FOR APRIL. [“Milliner aud Dressmaker.”] Fashion is at present inclined to he manycoloured. Materials, ribbons, embroideries, even straw hats, are made in several colours. Linen for the table and the toilet is trimmed with embroidery in many shades. White pocket - handkerchiefs display enormous initial letters and* monograms, in silk or cotton, of the seven prismatic colours, and, oftener still, they are seen in Scotch tartan, or with borders striped in every colour. Scarcely any dresses are to be seen in twe shades of the same colour. They are trimmed, in preference, with Pekin or tartan of a colour totally different from that which prevails in the dress itself. Cashmere is made up in combination with satin in all these colours, and is-used for hats, ties, and dress trimmings. We have seen a hat of satin and cashmeres in old gold, the brim lined with silk, and the soft crown in old gold silk with a fluted curtain of the same lined with red satin. In front, a bunch of shaded red and oH gold feathers. Strings of red satin ribbon.

Here is one of the most original manycoloured hats, in white and Bng’ish straw. The shape is round, low in front, slightly raised at the back, and trimmed with a scarf of tartan gauze with three drooping ostrich tips in the principal colours of the tartan, bronze, caroubier, and maize. Cache-peigne of red roses and foliage. Natural moss finds, a place among bonnet trimmings, and will be much used as the season advances. Pekina are extremely fashionable still, and a very pretty variety is being manufactured which lends itself well to combinations. This is a woollen Pekin, with small satin stripes, one quite plain of neutral colour, the other with little branches of bright colour on a neutral ground of a different tint from that of the plain stripe. Another Pekin is called inamovible (unchangeable). This name, so_ charged with political allusions, refers to its qualities of fabric and colour. It is so called because it wears so well, and is likely to reach and retain a foremost place in trade. It is a pretty grey material. Foulard will be more than ever a favourite in Paris; also surah, Indian corah, and Louisine, prettier still gleaming like satin and always in soft colours. In these materials tartan is represented in large squares in very pale colours, and on others, small flowers in every colour are scattered over the ground. These same flowers are worked on caflimere in flat embroidery. But, among all these tartans and Pekins, we must not forget the plain materials which are to be fashionable in all the newest colours. The names of these are curious—soupir liStouffiS, “stifled sigh”; coil abattu, “cast-down eye”; vive bergire, “lively shepherdess” ; couleur de gens nouvellement arrives, “colour of people just arrived”; les cheveaux de la reine, “ colour of the Queen’s hair,” and chaudron, a copper brown. These colours, which are shades of grey and brown, will be much worn for walking and travelling dresses, all to be made short, of course. Chaudron ought to be more becoming to a brunette than to a blonde, but the Duchesse de M. lately appeared in a cashmere pelisse with chaudron satin back and fronk Her exquisitely clear complexion and fair hair looked lovely. But then, women who possess a really good complexion can wear anything. . Among the new spring colours are bullfinch rod,” beige and s’.raw. Old gold is not dead, but it his grown pale, and is no longer the “old gold” of former days, but is modernised into a shade approaching cream colour. Gold and silver are .seen mingled in the embroidery so much used for trimmings. Many materials are striped with gold and silver for scarves and other trimmings for ball drosses, and also for hat trimmings. Colour is not confined to outer garments alone. Under-vests of spun silk in cardinal rod may be put down among the choicest of the luxuries of dress. Over these are placed the embroidered corsets of satin, and over these are frequently a Princess suit, consisting of bodice and short skirt cut iu one, or bodice and drawers out in the same way, of India twilled silk, trimmed with Torchon or Breton lace. The underdrawers would be of wool, fine as gauze, or of soft cashmere flannel pale blue, or pink, drawn into an embroidered bank, and trimmed with an embroidered ruffle, and showing a second one of Breton and ValenI cienncs lace above the flannel. Flannel skirts to match the drawers are made in the same delicate shades, of the same line, pure quality of wool, and trimmed with ruflb-S embroidered exquisitely with white, or shaded silks iu the colour of the flannel. They have even the lace ruffle added s ometimes, though this is a most unnecessary addition, as the garments are really in better taste without it. Quite as pleasant to the eye, and the sense, is the silken hosiery which has only very recently become a luxury within the reach of the middle classes. Formerly silk stockings were very expensive, and were so fine and light of texture as to have very little wear in them. Now we have the “spun” silk stockings, which are fully as handsome, and much warmer, and more serviceable. The most desirable of these arc broadly ribbed, in solid colours; cardinal red, black, brown, grey, and navy blue. There is also a more expensive kind, m which a stripe of open, work about the width of a “rib,” alternates with one of rich I embroidery executed in the same colour. 1 Beautiful hosiery, from Ireland, is made of

unbleached thread, and also of thread dyed in dark solid colours, and is embroidered most effectively in contrasting colours. More costly and more luxurious than any other, however, is the silk hose into which ovals of real lace are inserted, which extend over the instep*, but these are, of course, extremely expensive, and require to be set off by pretty and costly shoes. There is no doubt that this is alnxuorious age, as regards dress, and extravagance seems to gaiffl upon us instead of decreasing, as it migirt be expected to do, in the face of the present depression in trade.