LADIES' COLUMN.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1662, 18 June 1879, Page 3

LADIES' COLUMN.

LINGERIE, &C. [From the " Queen."J In Lingerie—and the term embraces a wide area—there ia much that is new. A description of the several ways of trimming underlinen would be merely wearisome, and convey but little to the mind. A better idea would be gleaned by consulting the illustrations in the (l Qaeen," February 22nd, 1877, pages 15G and 157. Pink, white, and cream washing silk continue to be much worn for underlinen, often taking the form of combination garments. The petticoats seem to be peculiarly well adapted for full dress evening wear. Breton lace is U3ed upon them, as indeed on all underlinen ; but it has not totally set aside Valonciennes. About white skirts there is not much to be said ; they are worn short, bath for morning and for evoning wear by thos& who dance, as the balayeuse tacked inside the dress is lets cumbersome, For dinner parties the trained skirts, elaborately trimmed with lace, the train made to button on and off, are fashionable ; and the ad (rent of paniers as a durable fashion is proclaimed by the numerous movable dress improvers of steel, crinoline, and plaited stiff muslin attached to many skirts, and a small puff made in the petticoat itself, and drawn up with a runner when requir3d. The trains are fantail, not square. A light sort of woven cotton petticoat is sold this season at a low price. It resembles the woven woollen skirts of honeycomb design, long used. The flannel petticoats are cut scanty, with deep bands coming well down on the hips. They are bordered with Breton or Torchon lace, or are embroidered in shaded silks, after the prevailing Pompadour order, or, aa it ia occasionally called, in the " croquet " style. Occasionally the embroidery on these petticoats matches that on the stockings. These are wora always in plain colors, with colored clocks and embroideries. Open-work stockings are a feature in this season's fashions, and the newest thread ones have the open-work carried up to the very top. Chemises, both in linen and silk, are cut to the figure, and for all but quite low dresses the newestare made as high squares, which is an innovation. Another novelty is a plaited gusset introduced on either side of the bust, giving ample room to the figure, # > In France frilling embroidered in color in tambour stitch, is used on underlinen, but thia has not made much way in England. In drawers there is a novelty. The upper portion of the leg which comes over the knee is gathered at either side horizontally. The nightgowns made in the colored washing Bilks are worked ia feather stitch on bias bands, as a heading to Breton lace. They are mostly made to open in the V shape, There are many charming accessories made this season in the way of ruffs, frills, waistcoat*, bows, scarves, pelerines, &c. _ India muslin and the new crape muslin, trimmed with Breton lace, white and ecru, is the prevailing style. But a vast improvement has been made in imitation lace, as, for example, some very fine reproductions of Venetian, Bpanish, and French point, Duchesse, Mechlin, and Ferrara, which are largely used, as well aa point de Baguße, and it requires a keen eye and accurate knowledge to detect the real from the imit-tion. The ruffs are made either a la Marie Stuart, with the straight edges sewn together and then double box plaited (in making these it is necessary to line with a broad piecj of net or muslin, or they quickly turn down from the neck) ; or they consist of three box plaited rows, standing upwards, with a band of lace round as a finish, studded with steel or diamond stars ; or there is a wider gathering of lace turning downwards, and a narrower upwards, divided in the same way. Buffs and lace plaitings arc to be very much worn, and some of them havo ribbon run through between the plaits. Bows of Breton insertion sewn together are made into what are called locket lappets, for tying closely round the neck with low dresses. For morning and outdoor wear, very wide lace scarves of black and white lace and figured net are worn, and these are bordered with often as many as four rows of two-inch wide gathered lace. Scarf ties of Indian muslin, folded double, are gathered at each end with some three or four runnings, almo t like a tasßcl, the lace at the extreme encis being gathered closely together. Bows of lace and thia India and crepe muslin, about four inches across, are made in the butterfly shape. Another favorite stylo is a bow of muslin, with a cascade of lace on the other ; indeed, tho variety is endl-ss; A tiny flower, either natural or artificial, ia generally now pinned on one side of these scarves and bows. One of the newe3t thing 3 for converting an ordinary dresa into demi-toilette is an upstanding ruff of lace, with narrow ribbon round it, tied in a bow in front. The lacs is then brought down a 3 a double drapery to the waist on one side, while on the other is the cascade of lace, headed by ribbon and lisse plaiting ; it is carelessly graceful. Ruffles or shaves are inado to b 3 worn with all these, as a double irill turning towards the wrist, headed by puffings of mualin. Tucks are largely used in silk and muslin scarves.

Fichus draped over the shoulders continue to be made of fine India muslin, bordered with lace, knotted in front, sometimes with long pendent ends, while others slightly pointed in the centre are tied at the back. Fichus of soft silk, white and colored, will also be worn, and tho3e in netted copeau brail, black, white, and colored, which have a moat dressy effect, Waistcoats, to wear with or without jackets over an ordinary bodice, give fulldress appearance at a small cost. They are made of thick white liuen, trimmed with lace and embroidery, of black velvet, of India muslin, fulled on to a plain foundation cni caught down with pearls at intervals ; of Pompadour muslin and cotton, and of the soft washing silks- They reach to the tip of the shoulder, fasten at the back, are narrow at the waist, and terminate in two square ends. They are always bordered all round with lace, having a cascade sometimes down the centre of the front, and an upBtanding ruff at the throat, They cover the front of the dress entirely. Sometimes they are made in one piece, of Duchess or Brussels lace. Another style, called waistcoat fichu, is a niece of muslin gathered at the waist like a baby's bodice, a ruff at the throat, a cascade of lace at either side, and bows of lace and ribbon at the waist and neck.

Veiy handsome waistcoats are also made in red, cream, pink, and blue satin, handsomely embroidered, having jabots of lace down the front, or a Steinkirk tie, often secured by a quaint pin in the form of a lizard, a pipe, a garter, half closed fan, &c, in jewels or enamel. A return to old modes is indicated by a large collar, which is made in Paris either of the same material as the dress, or of lawn and lace. It turns over in points, and is so high and spreading that it has to be kept out in its placo by fine wire ; a lace ruff and ribbon complete it at the neck. Bath for children and grown-up people, almost any kind of largo square collar or bib is admissible. Not a week since, the falling band of James I.'s time was adopted by two or three of our women of fashion at an afternoon party. It was made in linen, bordered with Italian cut work, and evidently copied from an old picture. Lace, with the pattern outlined in gold and silver, is now made into close-plaited ruffs, and worn with the fashionable high bodices with dinner toilettes. There is a decided novelty in handkerchiefa

and pink, and various mixtures to match the Pompadour costumes. They are further edged with Breton lace. These are also made up into caps, square colta with ends, and many eorts of bows. For young ladies' dress handkerchiefs a new mode of trimming has been introduced, a sort of three-sided Bcallop, bordered with insertion and lace beyond. Also Breton insertion and lacs as borderings, sewn on quite plain, except the cornerp, where it is very much fulled. These etceteras of dress give finish and style to a toilette, and, with a little ingenuity, most of them can be made at home, Ruches, bows, and waistcoats are ladies' work, and we'l repay the trouble.

DRESSES WORN AT THE MARRIAGE OF THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT.

The Queen wore a drees and train of black silk, with a border of black terry velvet embroidered in black silk, and a white tulle veil, surmounted by a diadem of diamonds. Her M;ijesty also wore a necklace and earrings of large diamonds, the Koh-i-noor as a brooch, with a diamond pendant attached to it containing a miniature of Her Royal Highness Princess Alice, the Grand Duchess of Hesse; also the Riband and Star of the Order of the Garter, the Orders of Victoria and Albert, the Crown of India, Louise of Prussia, and the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha Family Order. Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales wore a toilette of Oriental pearl-coloured brocade, richly embroidered in pearls, with ruffles of point d'Aogleterre and narrow bands of dark fur. The train was composed of the darkest amethyst velvet, lined with Oriental pearl satin, bordered in narrow dark fur. A smaller train of point d'Angleterre, entirely covering the centre, was fastened on by large medallions of pearls, with corsage to correspond. Princess Louise, Princess Victoria, and Princess Maude of Wales each wore a dress of Oriental pearl brocade, with a stomacher of Malines lace, and ceinturesof velvet over a jupe of poult do soie of the same tint, with plisses of poult de soi, and ruffles of Malines lace; Her Royal and Imperial Highness the Duchesa of Edinburgh wore a dress of pale pink satin, trimmed with rich point d'Alen gon lace and garlands of shaded roses. Train of pale pink brocaded Balin, trimmed with point d'Alengon lace and bouquets of shaded roses. Headdress—Diamond diadem, fea therp, and veil. Ornaments—Necklace, brooch, and earrings of sapphirss and diamonds. Orders —Victoria and Albert, Star of India, St. Catherine of Russia, Louise of Prussia, and the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha Family Order. Her Royal Highness Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein wore a train of rich paoa velvet trimmed with very fine silver fox, corsage and petticoat of valvet and gatin the same colour, elegantly trimmed with a shaded embroidery of paon and gold beads and fur to match the train, OrnamentsOpals, pearls, and diamonds. Headdress— A tiara of diamonds, veil, and plumes Orders—The Victoria and Albert, the SaxeCoburg and Gotha, the Indian Order, the Prussian for Care of the Wounded in 1871, St. Isabel of Portugal, and St. Catherine of Russia. Her Royal Highness Princess Beatrice wore a dress and train of pale blue velvet, trimmed with eatin. Headdress—Feathers, veil, and diamond stars. Ornaments—Diamond and pearl necklace, brooch, and earrings. Orders—Victoria and Albert, the Crown of India, the Riband and Star of St. Catherine of Russia, and the Saxe Ooburg and Gotha Family Order.

FERN PAPER.

A very elegant novelty, which will be readily appreciated by that numerous section of the public which has a taste for ferns, has recently been devised by a lady reeidert in Brisbane. It is termed "fern paper," and consists o! note-paper, at the left-hand corner of tbe first page of each shear, on which are gummed pieces of natural fern, in one or more varieties, sometimes in combination with leaves; grass seeds, &c. No two sheets are alike, and the ornamentation of the paper, which is performed in an artistically careless way, has been greatly admired in Brisbane.

A NEW FASHION.

The latest outre fashion in Vienna is the so-called *' Boccachio " stockings— i.e , a white silk stocking on the lefc leg, and a pink one en the right. The idea was taken from the charming costume which Fraulein Link—whose marriage I announced a fortnight ago—wore in the last act of Tuppe's new opera. Whether the demimonde took the notion from the grand monde, or vice versa, it is hard to say—they always copy one another. Certain it is that both the louches of society have adopted the Boccachio hose, as the very short dresses and low cut shoes now worn give one ample opportunity of ascertaining. A. misogynist would say that, as maay of these ladies can hardly tell their right from their left, the fashion of "pink and white" will be of practical use—like the " hayband" and " strawband " for the recruits —" World."