LADIES LETTER FROM PARIS.

Globe, Volume IV, Issue 382, 2 September 1875, Page 3

LADIES LETTER FROM PARIS.

(From a correspondent of the Press.) Pakis, July 10. "Now's the day and now's the hour" for the "Umbrella Loan Society" to place its shares in the market, and its wares, whether after the types of Paul Pry's or Sairey Gamp's in the suggested depots—the tobacco shops, and where unprotected ladies can call with us much confidence as travelling in the smoking compartment of a railway carriage. Floods seem to be the order of the day, differing only in intensity. The Garonne has roared, but the Seine looks sullen, and Paris you know is France. The rain spoils everything, even to the harvest. Strawberries arrive on the table smothered in water, instead of in cream, and ladies set out for racing parties and pic-nics, with the devotion and taciturnity of pilgrims. A dust-coat used to be an essential article in every laJy's wardrobe, but we have changed all that for waterproofs. Every lady now protects her toilet with a houppelande, in the form of the delicious Russian tunic. These mantles or costume-preservers are made up in impermeable English cloth, no more allowing a drop of water to enter than Captain Boyton's mummy apparel. The

rain over, and all the beauties of the sun appearing in April glory, the tunic is thrown off, and the lady emerges from the chrysalis state into the full blown butterfly ; or like a Columbine, or Solomon arrayed in all his glory. The wet weather has forced numerous silken sons and daughters of pleasure to defar their annual flight to the sea side or the spa, much to the benefit of the city trade, and in presence of the windows of heaven remaining unshut, those invalids who were dying to go to Vichy, Trouville, or Dieppe feel themselves slightly better. Their malady, of a nervous nature, and therefore as changing as incurable, disappears a little in the presence of the merry sunshine. Pic-nics under preseut circumstances are not impossible, but very inconvenient, and arc thus managed : a dinner is ordered at a country restaurant, and guests rail or drive there ; dancing takes place on the lawn, wind and weather permitting, and excursions to some forest, or gondola life on a lake or a river, are also voted excellent. Political jupons are banished from these parties as ruthlessly as would be an infidel dog from a mosque. The chronic state of humidity of the sky and of moisture of the earth, has nipped in the bud an excellent innovation, that of superseding hot dinners in gas lit rooms of a summer's evening between seven and eight, by a substanstantial lunche at i p.m., without ceremony, the invited amusing themselves as they please afterwards, till the hour comes to dress for the opera, or almost midnight drive, as the Bois de Boulogne is thronged with carriages till past eleven, and is the occasion for ladies displaying every variety of mantle and every new invention in head-gear. But the floods at Toulouse; yes, these did at the moment cause us to attune our lyres to melancholy, but after making donations, consciences became tranquil, and like the soldier's funeral, the Dead March has been followed by lively airs. Much complimentary conversation is taking place, and justly so, respecting an actor who gave the proceeds of his handsome benefit to the inundated, but what I do not see mentioned is the sacrifice made on the altar of her country, by the young and handsome Comtesse de (J , who presented her trousseau to the general relief fund, and her bridesmaids their gala toilettes, and never was a wedding party more beautifully simple, because heaven smiled and the crowd applauded. Nor ought schoolboys and girls to be overlooked, they gave out of their limited allowance, and I am aware of collegians, that some good fairy replaced by double, what they had spontaneously given to the distressed in mind, body, and estate, in the hope of their being relieved according to their several necessities. Boys and girls merit an addition to their vacation, and a reduced quantity of Latin and scales thumping. The theatres and public places of amusement were, above all, conspicuous for the sums raised and the manner of their collection—during the interludes, the prettiest actresses, chaperoned by an actor, made the tour of the house with auinoniers. At one theatre, where the play of the " Tower of London " is being acted, the two chief characters therein are the two executioners, wearing masks and long red robes; each of them followed an actresa during her round of collection, giving a rose to the female portion of the spectators, and illustrating how one may smile and smile and be a villain. The amateur artistes, by some misunderstanding, failed to secure a bumper house for the benefit of the sufferers, the receipts did not even pay half-price for the gas and rent; but then it is an axiom in French law, old style of course, that where there is nothing the King loses his rights ; the good-natured effort is remembered all the aiarae, and its originators merit first-class wicker coffins when the occasion comes. Henceforth speak softly about cabmen—they have the milk of human kindness in their veins, as they subscribed a day's earnings, pourhoires included. The Minister of Police ought to bestow the new good-conduct stripe on all their coats, recommending those who have the most dreadful complaints from single ladies to their account to go and sin no more. The theatres, always a safe guide for judging of the prosperity of business, continue to be crowded, despite the moist heat that reigns in the houses, and the absence of any marked novelties as to pieces, the principal establishments generally close for six or eight weeks during the summer, when the members of the company are free to go to where glory waits them; the majority of them mostly remain in Paris at their off business, for actors have two strings to their bow, they have some light occupation that brings in a sure revenue; well, this season the companies, instead of breaking up, have in several instances formed themselves into a copartnership, and paying house expenses conduct the spectacles at their own risks and perils. The experiment has succeeded ; a few innovations have been introduced, in the employment of tiny playing perfumed fountains in the pit, bordering the box seats in front with flowers, giving play bills gratis, and registering your place on the same terms. We would have laughed longer at the tribulations of the spirit world, only the calamity of Toulouse cut short broad grins, and the precarious health of the Republic is said to cause some anxiety to its sponsors and medical attendants. The manufacture of spirit photographs is permanently closed in France, and the pasteboard figures of departed ancestors, with their winding sheets, &c, have been deposited in the police museum, while the manufacturers themselves are passing the season in prison ; it is one lucrative delusion less in France, and the deceived can occupy themselves competing for the additional prizes for virtue, to be awarded by the Academy, one is for the sum of 10,000 fr, the fund for paying which has been bequeathed by a lady ; it is clear that it can pay to be good, only it is found that in the case of minor recompenses for model lives, once received, the honoured lapses into original sin, and becomes unsuitable for a ' tract.

It may be said that it is only between two showers that one can obtain a glimpse of the fashions ; novelties are rare, and are mostly to be met with ornamenting the " dummies " in the dressmakers' show rooms. At the Besselicvre concerts, where the illumination is superb and the votaries of fashion numerous, gauzes and transparent tissues upon bright silks, stuffs pliable and in mild shades, hats lost in flowers, are what oue mostly encounters ; the trimming for hats is worn as much back as possible ; for town wear, the Watteau and the Marie Stuart hata are in vogue ; the former is made up in white rice straw or chip, broad brimmed, with bows of lace and bunches of gold drops; the latter is made of white crin, with silver gallons and pendant pearls, black velvet above, and tuft of roses ; lily of the valley and white heath are trimmings also patronised ; for voyaging, the round shaped hat

is the mode, it ought to incline foreheadwards ; for the seaside, the overturned strawberry basket shape is the rage. The mono nieres are still a necessity, and are ma ■'■■ 'p in leather or velvet, somewhat soli■!. mnl ornamented with velvet or steel ; they are either attached to the waistband or suspended from a crochet, and are larger than heretofore, and hence, more useful. A very eccentric innovation has appeared, the Jeanue d'Arc chain, consisting of a series of large buckles in silver or steel, through which is run a colored ribbon matching the dress ; the chain garnishes the border of the basque cuirasse, hanging sufficiently low 01 the jupon, and terminating by a pretty hand lookingglass. Light first-class woollen materials are in request, aud foulards have become a necessity ; ecrue, holland, striped percules, are of course the concomitants of summer ; grey is perhaps the predominating color, few loud shades are to be met with, but this does not imply that black reigns. On the contrary, it has fallen a little in esteem. At the seaside gauze veils have resumed their empire, and aided with a wing and an aigrette, young ladies may safely be entrusted to make themselves a very pretty head dress, as also to arrange the coarse straw hat, sailor model, with its Neapolitan net. For the negligee toilette, collars and cuffs are mostly made up in blue linen ; but for full dress embroidery and lace are essential, white cambric, with a pique hem. is simple and elegant. The white muslin cravat is being superseded by lace, the older the better. (Shapes remain unchanged, but boots and shoes must be in harmony with the dress. The fan constitutes an integral part of the toilette. Some correspond to the costume even as to material; others are in black, white, or colored silk, with miniature paintings, embroidered with spangles of steel, silver, or jet. It is suspended from the waist as regularly as if it were a watch. Oftentimes a smelling bottle hangs by its side. Cosmetics have made fearful havoc with many features of late, producing inflammations difficult to cure. One perfumery establishment is threatened withseveral actions, so great are the ravages its wares, intended to beautify, have caused. These menaces have served to opposition houses to offer large rewards to whoever satisfactorily proves any of their products have done harm. Indeed, to judge by French newspapers, their chief advertisements consist of materials for the dressing table. Anything new, provided it has an attractive name, is sure to sell. And don't imagine the chief purchasers are ladies; their rooms, as well as those of gentlemen, resembling very much a chemist's shop with its rows of bottles. Not long ago an old beau died and left as legacy to his valet all his stock of cosmetics, and to avoid these being sold at the public mart, the perfumer himself bought them in. It is no secret that individuals subscribe to these kind of " outfitting" establishments as they do to theatres. Abstainers and Permissive Bill legislators generally will be delighted to hear tkat the Jockey 0 lub, where the crevie de la creme of French society congregate, and where it is as difficult to find admittance as it is said for a rich man to enter the kingdom of heaven, take nothing stronger during the warm weather than an infusion of cocoa. This cannot be called extravagance. The beverage is said to be a preventive of apoplexy, an accident not very general among those not rich in this world's goods. There must be something wrong about the Eastern question. The " sick man" is becoming interesting. Thus the young Turks annually sent to Paris to be educated as model Mahomedans have been suddenly recalled. Turkey is bent on reform, so that henceforward no new loans will be required, and the interest on outstanding ones paid with a punctuality that ought to make a Spaniard blush, if Hidalgoes be not past blushing as well as praying for. The Freemasons are prospering. It is said every fresh Papal fulmination sends applicants in crowds to be admitted to the order. Be this as it may, the election of the Prince of Wales as Grand Master, with all the orthodox " W's." has produced a most beneficial effect on the craft here. Jules Ferry, the most statesmanlike of republicans, and the first of French orators/has been admitted as a brother of the mystic tie, and Littre, the author of the gigantic dictionary, has also been received, the better to vex the Bishop of Orleans, who fled the academy, rather than to sit near Littre, though they look like lambs in the Assembly; there are accommodations, however, it is said even with heaven. Perhaps if the dissolution of the Assembly takes place before the arrival of the Greek Calends, the Republic may be able to fete an " Independence day," as the American colonists have just done, very quietly and soberly; it is young America that enters most lovingly into the observance of the national anniversary ; for one day only it is left to enjoy perfect liberty in the bonbon aud pastry cook shops; next day powders and potions, which answer to the brandy and sodawater cures of parents and heads of families. There is an invention in mechanics that largely interests ladies, a new pedal has been added to pianos, by means of which not a disagreeable, or grating, or scratching, or pulmonic sound will dash the harmony that is struck out of the octaves ; it is to be hoped that the delicate improvement may be appreciated by all parties to that most dismal of evening amusements —a piano entertainment. Piety is to be looked after; it has been calculated that the revenue of French churches would be quadrupled were the chairs put up for auction once a year ; this has been done in a few cases; but only think, the purchasers of the best positions are young men, who rarely enter the building; they wish to be able to give their chair to some beautiful worshipper, as they would their box at the opera. Such a class of persons might benefit by joining the newly organised society for leaguing the bodies of its members to the medical schools, not that the supply of subjects is short, but to enlighten doctors and encourage science. Addison dissected fops aud coquettes; an anatomical demonstration of some of the jeunesse doree would not be uninteresting.

Frankston Hotel. It was understood that the pair were carrying on the business in partnership, and it is also alleged that they cohabited together. Howard was a oinrrfed man, having a wife living, who managed the Mornington Hotel at Schuapper Point. Mrs Wright was a widow, with two children, her husband having died about two years ago She was a woman of very drunken habits, and latterly she and her partner agreed very badly. Howard appeared to be discontented with her management of the hotel, and, after repeated disagreements, he offered her £IOO to give up her share in the business, or he was willing to take a similar amount to go out of the concern. They finally determined to dissolve partnership and to sell the hotel. Before Mrs Wright came to this resolution she brought in a man named Harman to take charge of the bar, aud to look after her interests in the establishment. Howard evinced great jealousy of Harman, and, it is alleged, vowed vengeance against him and Mrs Wright. Things went on in this way for some time, until the sale of the hotel, which took place on Friday last. The house was purchased by Mr Young, a publican at Emerald hill, Mrs AVright, Howard, and Harman still remained in the hotel, although the greater portion of the furniture and effects had been cleared out by the purchasers. About six o'clock on Saturday evening Mrs Harman prepared tea in the hotel for its occupants, which they all partook of together. Mrs Harman left shortly afterwards and went to her own house, and sent some bedclothes to the hotel for her husband. At this time Howard, Harman, and Mrs Wright were sitting in a back parlor removed from the bar. A short time afterwards a man named Collins and his son came into the bar and rapped several times on the counter before they could get anyone to attend. Harman then came out from the back parlour, leaving Mrs Wright, her son (an intelligent boy of nine years of age), and Howard in the room. Harman and Collins got engaged in conversation about some domestic affairs, and the latter gave Harman a letter to read. Whilst he was reading this letter both heard a piercing shriek, as if from a woman in mortal agony proceeding from the back parlour. It may be here mentioned that this parlour was not immediately behind the bar, but was separated from it by another room. When Harman heard the shriek he threw down the letter he was reading and, without a moment's hesitation, rushed into the room from whence the sound had proceeded. At the door of the room he was met by Howard, and within a second he was seen by Mrs Wright's son (the boy previously mentioned) to put his hand to his breast, turn suddenly round, and run through the bar into the street, where he fell. Collins, who was in the bar during the time, followed Harman into the street, where in the course of a few minutes, without it is stated, uttering a single exclamation, he expired. Howard in the meantime returned to the parlour, and was followed by the boy Wright, who saw his mother lying on the ground in what he thought to be a fit. Howard was sitting beside Mrs Wright, who was lying groaning. The cook in the adjoining room had also heard the first shriek, and on going into the room Where he knew Mrs Wright was, saw her lyirg on the floor perfectly white, and groaning. He also believed she was in a fit. Then he saw Howard and Harman in the passage, and the latter turning suddenly and rushing away. It is said that Harman never spoke after he was stabbed, although some bystanders imagined that he said, " Send for the police." When the state of affairs was discovered, nnmbers of people rushed into the back parlour, and there Howard was seen sitting beside the corpse of the dead woman. At his feet was the knife with which the bloody deed had been committed. It is alleged that he must have concealed this knife (an ordinary butcher's knife) about his person at an early hour of the day. No knife but this one was accessible, and Mrs Harman had been looking for it during the afternoon, but could not find it. When discovered after the murder, it appeared to have been recently ground, and was as sharp as a razor. Mrs Wright, when examined, was found to have received several stabs in her chest, one very deep one being above, the breast, and another of a similar kind below it. Her hand also was gashed right across, as if she had made several attempts to wrest the knife from the hand of her assassin. Harman must have ineffectually attempted to guard off the blow of his murderer with his arm, for his coat-sleeve was cut right across, and the knife then descended and inflicted the terrible wound which, piercing to the heart, caused his almost instantaneous death. Howard sat by the side of his murdered paramour for two hours, without changing his position or making any attempt to converse with those around him. When asked by one man if he knew what he had done, " that he had murdered Mrs Wright and Harman," he replied, " I come of a race that won't brook an insult, even if resenting it brings them to the gallows." When the crime became known, the police constable at Schnapper Point was sent for, and on his arrival Howard was at once taken into custody. He made no remark when arrested, but when the constable charged him with the double murder, he said, " You will have to prove it." He was then handcuffed and conveyed to the Mornington lock-up.