THE TASHI LAMA OF TIBET.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXV, Issue 2221, 26 October 1907, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE TASHI LAMA OF TIBET.

A REMARKABLE INTERVIEW WITH A REMARKABLE MAN. Strange Customs that prevail on the “ Roof of the World.”

(By SVEN HEDIN. in “ Harper’s Monthly

I amo lioro in Sliigatse, tho most sacred town of Tibet and of 'the wbolo Buddhistic world, t But first a few words of my journey, bvon now when the river is at its lowest and the ice-flakes are dancing along on the bright-green water, the Brahmaputra is a. gigantic and imposing river, passing through the moetiinagnilicent scenery, with majestic mountains on both sides. The first days, however, wo wero rulinig along in raging storm with clouds of dust and sand, forming here) and there great banks, thirties o| pilgrims wero on their way to tho|Now-\ ear’s Festival. There was no funnoyanco, no troublesome curiosity) (Most of those who were riding ami greeted ns politely. On our right wo had the river, and we followed tiho northern bank during eiglit hours, until we arrived in the town of Kamanin, where we camped in a grove of high poplars and willows; we delighted in hearing the wind whistling in the trees, although these were leafless. I now could got for dinner fowl and soup, onion and eggs; it was a welcomo change from the eternal mutton. All the timo since wo wero in the Ngmgtacwtso country I had been living mostly on sour milk, but this became distasteful and was replaced by eggs. A c had a very long march to the ton'll of Dlia-na. All the road from Jo to Dlia-na is full of temples, many of them rather largo and imposing. The toum is very picturesquely situated on the top of a terrace, built of boulders, and beneath is the vast river. AY’e were riding through a row of towns and gardens, and often along parts of the bank, which is under water during the summer. I let the caravan proceed on its way, while X myself took a boat in order to row, or rather drift, towards the mouth of Sliigatse valley. At Dha-na there are a great number of boats, on which the country produce is brought to the town, lhov consist of a skeleton of ribs and sticks, over which there are stretched four hides—a clumsy but very •practical two-oared boat with necessary appurtenances. Had I known that it would he a trip of seven hours we should have provided ourselves with provisions; however, everything went right. A great number of boats with pilgrims and peasants from the neighboring country passed us before we started, but ave soon overtook them. The Women wore their finest dresses, made in the most motley and fantastic wav, with high bows in the neck richly studded with corals and turquoises. Most of the boats had pennants with prayers inscribed, and over the railing of some of them were hanging idols in silver cases, in order to make the pilgrimage on the river specially blessed. In some of them they wero cooking over a small fire/and drinking tea, and constantly chattering. At- first wo went ahead at a tremendous speed. The water was often so shallow that the bottom of the river seemed suddenly to raise itself, while in the distance ave had the mountains with their branches and valleys, and temples on tlio lower hills. It was strange and fantastic. Every now and again ave saa\- prayer-pennants on the banks fastened to high poles.. AVe passed towns, caravans and peasants, driving their asses—‘an animal ave had not. seen for a long time, with the exception of the avild ass in Tibet. There are feav turns on the river, but some of them are‘so sharp that the roaa'er hid to apply all his strength. AA 7 e avere accompanied the whole avay by drifting ice-flakes, which bumped against each other and the banks, which afforded a strange sight. The river often divides into one or more channels, but Hie boatmen knows liis avay. I first thought of using my own l, oa t—that avould have been splendid but I could hardly trust it to anybody else, and besides I avas engaged in mapping. The boat aa-ould have caused a great sensation, fine as it avas compared avith these clumsy crafts. The ria'er noav turned to the right side of the valley, av'th the perpendicular mountain sides towaids the water, only leaving space for a small path, where ave saav them carrying their boats back to Dha-na. One boat is just sufficient burden for one man. They came along in roavs like gigantic beetles, avith the boats on their backs. AA 7 o noav came upon a number of most magnificent vieavs. The river runs closo to tlio dark mountain 1 side, surrounded by the wildest scenery. At tlio foot of a rock ave saav hundreds of boats diagged on the bank, and quantities of straw, Hay, etc. It is the harbor; behind the point is the entrance of tlio valley avhicli leads up to Sliigatse. c Hero ave avere received by some of our men. Our boatman got four times his pay, and avas all satisfaction. AVo started our ride up the valley avliilo the sun avas setting. It was not quite pitch dark, lioavever, till wo reached Sliigatse. In tlio narroav lanes we avere riding botween the avliito houses of the toavn. To the right ave see tlio outlines of its “Dzong” or eastlo. Some of the inhabitants approached tis and took us into a garden at the gate of avli’ch tbere was a fine house with an open balcony. Muliamed Isa, aa-bo first arrived with tlio chief of the caravan, informed me that I avas nlloaa-od to stay on the ground floor, but I preferred my tent under the poplars. At nine o’clock a gentleman appeared aa-ho said lie was one of tlio Taslii Lama’s officials, avho, on his oil'll initiative, had conic to ask for information, name, nationality, caravan, place of destination, the way we had come, etc. Everything was taken down, but we never saw him again. The whole of the following day passed without anybody appearing, which however suited me, as I had a dreadful cough and cold, and stayed in bed till past eleven, and dozed for tlio remainder of tlio day. In the evening I sent Muliamed Isa up to the monastery of Tashilumpo, the gilded roof of which was shining from the mountain, about twelve minutes’ walk from our garden. Ho went to see a high lama, who said ho would send sonio one tlio next morning to ta'ko further particulars about me and my errand. At the

same time the mandarin hero, Ma, came to call. Ho a stout old follow, who was all kindness and politeness, but angry because the Taslii Lama bad not honored him with ail answer, although four days had elapsed sin '<■ ho had asked for an nudiui -.i. This was anything but a bright prospect for mo, when not even tlio first Chinese at Sliigatse could be received. These were the experiences of the first day. The next day was tlio festival, to which I could hardly go without permission, especially since the Taslii Lama himself would be present at the games.

Strango and not-to-be-forgotten days! It is rather peculiar to come and call at 6.30 a.m. I was, however, called, and dressed myself in a hurry, a mat was put in the tent, and the visitors wero received, although I looked rather haggard from tlio cold. It was tlio Taslii Lama’s chief munshi, Lobsang Tsoring, and a young Chinese official. They were exceedingly polite and kind, but they had several objections, saying tlmt a European could not be permitted to attend tlio games, which wore only intended for tlio inhabitants of ‘ country, and that the honor of being in tlio presonco of tlio Holy Lama was only granted to n very few mortals. Then wo went on chatting and discussing till nine o’clock. They asked about everything and naturally liad liovor heard of poor Sweden. AA'o wrote the name in Swedish, English and Chineso (Sviding-quo). Only then it- struck mo that I ought to show them the passport which our minister in London, Count AA’rangel, had procured for" me. I regretted that it was not made out for Tibet, but only for East Turkestan. I produced it at all events. The Chinamail perused it with open eyes and translated it into Tibetan to Lobsang Tsoring. Then they both observed: “But why—why did you not show this at once? It would have saved us all these consultations. It i:

very fino passport. You como at onco under Chineso protection.” I told them, wliat was true, that I had nob thought of it, as tho passport was mado out for East Turkestan only, hut they said that it didn’t matter. It was at any rato a genuine and very fine Chinese passport. It was buried in one of my trunks, but certainly it came in very handy now. Tho Chinaman disappeared, taking tho passport with him. After an hour, during which timo I politely asked Lobsang Tsoring to go out in my garden whilst I was having my breakfast, the Chinese returned and informed mo that I would bo welcomed to tlio games. At 10.30 a.in. Tsatserkan, a young Chinese official from tlio ALatican, camo to fetch mo. Only a few men wero allowed to accompany mo, and I choso tlio interpreter, Muliamed Isa, Robert, Tsering, Namgal and Rapsang. I was told that I liad to bo nicely dressed, wherefore I put on my evening dress and orders and appeared as grand as possible- Then the ulster and the cashmere boots, which could be changed for black shoes at tho palace, whereupon wo left on horseback. AVo dismounted at the chief entrance and proceeded up-hill tlirought steep and narrow lanes. There was any number of beggars and pilgrims, and we could hardly get along. Finally we entered a dark passage full of lamas of all degrees. Every one stepped aside and greeted us politely. AY lien in tho darkness I camo to an unexpected step I always felt a strong arm supporting me—it was a lama. My friend of the morning, Lobsang Tsoring, Tsatserkan, and another high lama were my guides. All these three liad been in India with'the Taslii Lama about a year ago. Tho two highest had been orderod to attend upon me during my stay at Sliigatso. AY 7 o wero going through long passages and corridors, and arrived ait last on a balcony, from which there was a. splendid view of the other balconies, terraces, and galleries surrounding tho yard where tho games should take place, and opposite to us was the great box adorned with yellow silk and golden fringes where tho holiest of all Holy Men should sit. There was a comfortable chair with soft cushions for mo. The sun was shining warmly and tlio ulster was not required, wherforo I showed myself in all my grandeur.

AVliat a splendid view from this fine seat! A sea of human beings, a mosaic of human heads, everything in red, yellow, blue, everything in vivid and screaming colors, everyone in their best dresses. There we, first of all, sec the real Tibetans, probably the same number of men and women, all wearing their hair very high, tlio moro studded with precious stones and trinkets the better ; somo high ladies, the wives of officials, wear big white ruffs on the neck, set with gems. There were also women from the Dogpa mountains, strangely attired, as well as Alongols, Butanese, Nepalese, Ladakese. Officials of different rank, some of them in gold-embroidered yellow silk dresses, with immense niushroomli'ke hats, others in red dresses. The variety of color is greater than in a paint-box. Ono become amazed, blinded and fascinated at tlie bright spectacle before him. The arena is rather limited, and we can see that all the roofs are crowded with people, even up under the golden roofs over the grinvs of tlio high priests,—and n the t : dst of all this splendour and a ! l these colors von see paupers in rags, crying children and miserable beggar women.

Now the temple bells were ringing in the festival, and from the monastery’s high balconies sounded the copper cymbals with a solemn dignity, and a conviction as if calling out to the mountains and valleys, “To all the countries of the world shall this song of praise go forth.” This signal meant that the lamas were drinking tea and preparing themselves for the festival, and the six thousand people present arc shouting at the top of their voices. Still a considerable time elapses; then w e soo a procession of lamas in yellow dresses entering the box of tlio Tasln Lama. They aro the high lamas carrying the robes. Everybody rises and silence prevails. Yet- an inter-

val; thou arrives tho Taslii Lama, wearing a tall, yellow mitre and in yollow gold-embroidored silk robes, and takes bis seat, cross-legged, behind a yellow curtain in tho front of tlio box. A small oblong opening in a suitable position, for his head, is fixed in the curtain, from which long silk fringes avo hanging down. At liis right are soatod his younger brother, Ghunz Glmsluik; at his left his master, and then his deaf and dumb old mother, Taslii Hlamo. There was also in the front row his chief secretary, a small, stout, heulthylooking, cardinal, with a bond like i billiard-ball, besides a number of high lamas, all in yellow silk. It is really an imposing spectacle. H seems as if wo have beforo us the whole of tlio Buddhistic world—condavo of venerable cardinals. The effect was not spoiled by their movements or tho way in which they talked. Olio can hear how low they are talking in tho presence of tho Holy Alan. Their movements aro slow, measured and full of dignity. I hey take their seats gracefully, they move their arms in a stately manner, they aro leaning slowly towards each other when conversing. It is a pictuio of real stateliness, devoid of vulgarity. Tho moment tho Holy Man enters, tlio people stand up silently like shadows, and wo see this crowd of nomads, who liavo come from the mountains and tho valleys, falling down with tho i'aco to tho ground and with folded hands, worshipping Taslii Lama. They seem to be carried away by holy veneration in his presonco, wliilo his face can only be seen now and then through tlio small opening in the curtain. The copper cymbals are now ringing again, and clioir of magnificent men’s voices, now rising, now falling, is singing a hymn. Tlio singers cannot bo seen, but the song carries one away with fascination, and soon it dies away. Tlio games now commence. First comes sacred music. Tlio cymbals aro so long that they liavo to bo struck against tho shoulders of laniaboys—novices from the monastery schools at Taslii-lumpo; forty colossal drums and flutes. They all sent themselves, forming a square in the arena. Ten chief lamas ill yollow dresses, and wearing tall helmets, take their seats on the tribune above. Each of them is chief of ono thousand lamas; thcro are four of them at Taslii-lumpo, but ono is ill.

AY’hilo wild and fantastic music is being played for three hours, dancing lamas, attired in tho most strange, ridiculous and costly dresses enter and dance in front of Taslii Lama’s box. They arc wearing masks representing wild animals, good and evil spirits taken from tlio inexhaustible sources of tlio symbolic and demoniacal legends of tile lamas. Eleven grand banners of gay colors, representing different gods, aro brought in, rolled out and lowered in front of tlio pojio of tho Lamas. I wrote down everything as far as time -permitted, and made a sketch of tho scene. It is impossible now to relate it all. The final item on the programme was a bonfire in the yard ; and an immense piece of paper, on which was written everything that one wished to get rid, was hold over it. A lama enters, carrying a howl of some inflammable stuff, which he pours over tho fire to make it flame up into a big blaze, which instantaneously consumes tho paper, and blip crowd burst out in' great joy, because tlieybelievethat the power of the evil spirit lias been broken. The feast called Losar is tlio New-year’s festival. It is also celebrated in honor of tho victory of Light and of the growing life of tlio world; also in honor of tho end of winter and its darkness and of tho beginning of gentle spring. During tho three hours which the games lasted, Taslii Lama spent at least half tlio time peeping at me. I often caught his glance, but tho distance was too great to enable me to see his features, and I had forgotten my field-glasses, which was perhaps just as well, as it would have been a breach of etiquette to gazo at the Holy Alan through glasses; although they woijld lmvo been useful as far as tho ladies wero concerned But I consoled myself, as thoso who passed in front of my box seemed to be moro related to the unbeautifiil than to tho Venus of Milo. Among tlie many thousands I could not ‘.race the least likeness to Alilo, but '.lies’ were smart and richly dressed. Dining tho whole performance we wore offered liberally—almost too liberally— Tsamba ,tea, dried fruits, sweets and Tibetan cakes, and, best of all, mandarins from Sikking, figs from Siningfu, and raisins from India. AVlicnever a fresh sorving took place an elderly lama, who was taking il.y host’s part, said “Pantjen Itinipotje (Taslii Lama), hopes that you will make yourself at home.” Beforo tho commencement of the games lie had sent a lama to my garden w'th a big “kadasch,”’ a long piece of white silk, as a greeting of welcome.

From the games I went to my Chinese friend and neighbour, Colonel Ala. and talked with him for a long time. On my return my two attendants were already in the garden, bringing with them a whole caravan of rases, laden with presents in kind from Taslii Lama, such as flour, rice, corn of the horses, etc., and, oddly enough, a silver coin, forty-six tango (fifteen rupees), to buy meat with. The men in charge of the caravan received twenty rupees as a tip. The two attendants brought tho message that- His Holiness desired to sec me the following morning,- and that 1 ought to bo at the head entrance at nine o’clock in full state. In the morning I had breakfast and dressed myself as smartly as for any ball at tlio Government House. Accompanied by the same persons who bad been in attendance on me at tlie games, we again rode up to Tashilumpo, and proceeded up the hill, as Hie house in which Taslii Lama dwells towers above the highest point ot this town of temples. It is a block of white, buildings with large projecting windows and huge awnings.

AVe wero ushered into the chief secretary’s room —a splendid reception room, full of idols in cases of real gold. Red is the prevalent color of the room. From the window one sees tlio numerous temple roofs and has a fine view of the valley. Thus we were sitting, chatting for about an hour. Ho shows me a number of photographs from tlie Chief Lama’s trip through India, and he is delighted to see how well I recognize Lord A fin to, General Kitchener, Airs. Dunlop Smith and the whole suite Tea is handed round in bowls with silver saucers. A lama now came in and whispered to the old man, who informed me that tlie Taslii Lama was waiting for me; ho had only just finished liis prayers. Steep stops arc constantly taking us higher up, aud the conversation becomes

more and more silent, and eventually dies out. In all tho corridors and passages there aro lamas standing, silent as monuments, looking at us. Lobsang Tsering whispers that wo have now come to tlio last anteroom, wlioro I can arrange myself and put on tho black shoos. AYjo then mount tho last steps and arrive in tlio room outside tho one where His Holiness will receive us. None except, Robert and. Mulnimod Isa were allowed to proceed any further. Aly present, consisting of an expensive medicinocaso, is now taken charge of by a lama and is carried in. I was asked whether I knew Tibetan. As my knowledge thereof is rather meagre, tlio interpreter bad to accompany me. Otherwise His Holiness would have received mo all by myself. AA 7 o enter; near the door I make a doap bow, then a low more until 1 como closo up to Taslii Lama, who is sitting on a small bunch fixed to tlie wall in a window recess, with a small table in front of him. Ho is dressed as an ordinary lama, in red garments ; he nods to mo kindly, asking mo to sit down in an easy chair closo to him. Half of tlio room is roofed in, tho other half is like ail open yard ; the room is a striking contrast to that of the secretary’s being extraordinary simple; not a singlo idol, no furniture, no mats, only tlio cold stono floor. Through the window liis dreamy eyes look out over this sinful world towards the, to us invisible, Nirvana, where his spirit in time will find rest. 110 is Pantjen Rimpotjo, or Tsong Kapas’s reincarnation. Tho great doctor’s soul has settled in Taslii Lama’s tfc'anpioiifc body. AYlicn a Taslii Lama dies, Tsong Kapsas’s soul is transferred to his successor, —a child being selected by A lie Conclave. The present Tubden Tjoki Gelo Namdja is tlio sixth Taslii Lama, and is at present the holiest person in tlio whole lama world.

AVliat did wo talk about? He asked mo first if I had gone through many hardships, and whether I had felt tlio cold very much at Tjangtang; then lio expressed his regret at tlio bad reception I bad met with. Tho reason was that I liad conic so quietly, and nobody knew that I li as tlio right person wlio was expected. Now everything should bo done lor. my comfort; ho liad given instruction to that effect. Ho then asked mo about my country, where is was situated, and about the population, then about tho countries of Europe. The kings and emperors interested him greatly. Ho further inquired about the Japanese and the war with Russia, about tlio countries I had travelled in, about India and her riches. Ho asked about the route to Sweden, as if ho intended to pay a return visit. He asked to be remembered very much to Lord Sabir (Alinto); ho should never forget the hospitality. “Don’t forget it,” lie said ; “promise mo that you will write to him and say that I am often—often thinking of him. Remember me also to Lord Kitchener.” Of his lordship ho showed me a signed photograph. Then ho returned to tlie sovereigns of the world, and produced a photographic group of them. Under each photo was written tho name and the country in Tibetan. Ho asked about each of them separately. Ho was deeply interested in the princes of Europe; ho who 's more powerful than all the kings of the earth, ho who governs tho faith and thought of all the people, from Kalmucks oil the A r olga to tlie Buriaks by the Bailkal, from the coast of the Artie to the scorcing sun of India.

Strange and never-to-be-forgotten Taslii Lama 1 I shall always remember him. Ho is just twenty-five years old. Ho presented on his birthday, valuable presents to all tlie lama temples. A special grand lama was sent to tlio monastery at Ladak. He himself is leading a simple life, and sits in his recess by the window and listens to tlio whistling of tlie wind and looks out over tlie valley. Never lias any person made such a deep and lasting impression upon me —as a god in human sliapo, but as a human being ill godly purity, chastity, and perfection. One never forgets liis glance, and I liavo never seen such a smile, such a finely cut mouth, such a noble face, full of goodness and charity. AA' liosoever lie may bo, he is an extraordinary and exceptional man—so gentle, so refined, so noble. His smile never left him, and every time our glances met lie nodded so kindly, as if lie would say, “Be convinced, I am your host friend.” That smile I shall always remember, as long as I live, as tlio most wonderful that I liavo over seen. All my impressions of Tibet and Braliamaputra aro nothing compared to it. AA 7 o were offered tea and fruits the whole time by lamas wlio walked about as silent as ghosts on tiptoe. A simple cup for the Taslii Lama; he always drank at the same timo as I, so as to show that lie was not too holy to descend to niv level. A "roup of lamas, standing some little distance off, was told now and then by a wave of his hand to leave the ■•" on! when lie wanted to as’k about something which lie thought did not concern them.

As usual, I was somewhat bold in my demands. I asked for Ins photograph, which lie willingly promised me. I was even to lie permitted to take a photograph of him if lie were allowed to photograph me. I might return with the camera whenever I desired. He showed me liis camera and told me that a lama was doing the developing, and had a separate dark room. I even asked him to give me a passport for any possible future travels in liis country, and I also asked him to give me one of liis officials as a guide and escort. Acs, with tho greatest pleasure ! I should have everything! At last I asked permission to see tilic whole of Taeiliilmnpo, to sketch and to photograph there. “Yes, with pleasure; I have already given instructions to the lamas, who will show you everything—everything.” There were no difficulties here —and all this in Tibet! I could understand that he liked me, for when the visit had lasted for two hours, and I made a sign that I intended to get up, he mule me sit down in the chair again, saying, “Oil no, you must stay a little longer.” This was repeated until I liad been there exactly three hours. When I showed him my email French camera, he hold in his hands under mine, as if lie would support them.' Then I explained to him about the medicine-case, which excited liis astonishment and liveliest interest. I had to explain everything to him; the morphia syringe, with its fine case and all its appurtenances, pleased him especially. To begin with, both of us were somewhat shy, but that passed off soon and we became tlie best of friends. AA 7 o were much fascinated with each other.

At last lie called for sonic lamas and ordered them to show me all I had como to see. Ho then gave me both his hands again and shook -mine, nodding lvis bead, whilst his delightful smile was playing on his lips, .and I retired backwards. His glances followed me with a smilo, and lie was waving liis hand to mo thowhole time, till I disappeared through tho door leading out to tho anteroom. AVhon I cimo down tho first flight oi steps, where a number of lamas wero waiting, they gazed at mo silently with big eyes, and no doubt thought that a special grace had befallen me, since tho audience had listed such a long time. AVe then visited tho most important parts of the temple, all the lec-ture-rooms, t and all the five Taslii Lama's sepulchral chambers, filled with Die finest gold and precious stones of priceless value. In a room where there was hanging an immense picture of Tsong Kapus, and ■where a servant offered up refreshments, came a lama with greetings from Taslii Lama, and expressions of hope that I would not get too tired by walking so much. AY 7 o could not do any more, as a storm was gathering and darkened the sky with flying dust, and beforo we arrived homo it had overtaken us.

I spent the whole of the next day in tlio temple and mado somo sketches, although tlio weather was rather bad. There was a big fair tlio following day for tho people, and it was great fun to mix with them. I Thousands of spectators had gathered in t'he fields; on tho west terrace was a sea of heads, and a ton'll of white and blue tents, where the dzongs, tho huge tents of the civic officials, attracted my special attention. I had a splendid place, guarded by tho police in red tunics and with yellow caps and pigtails. 11l front of us was the arena, and on the other side there was again a dense crowd. Tlio riders numbered seventy, all attired in the most fantastic and gay dresses, and reminded ono of Spanish cavaliers, all in immense mushrooinlike hats with red feathers, and yellow silk dresses with blue vests, the quivers filled with long arrows and bows carried in dlioaitlis. The horses have big i feathers and are richly adorned with gay pennants flying in tho wind, their tails tied with ribbons aiul with a big bow near the end. They have ranging bolls and richly decorated saddlecloths. The whole is a fantastic and gay picture. Just inside tlio arena are two targets hanging in a kind of gallows. Now comes tlie first rider in the wildest gallop, then the whole row, one after tlio other, raising a cloud of dust. During tho second ride they were shooting at the targets while riding at the highest speed. They have to hit them both, the distance between them being sixty metres. AY'lien the arrow hits the red spot a cloud of red dust issues ■from it. The second item on the •programme is shooting with guns, with blank cartridges, at the first target, and with hows at- the other. Only a few of them managed to get their bows in order. Everything went off well, notwithstanding tho reckless speed of tho horses. I was, of course, the object of a rather inquisitive curiosity, and the wildest crushing and pushing, which not even tlio whips of tho police could •prevent.

Taslii Lama again sent for me and asked if it was convenient to me to come and photograph him. This time I put on an ordinary suit-. Tho audience lasted -two hours' and a half. He was just as charming and amiable as before, and wanted to know all I had been doing, and if I had been shown everything I wanted to see. Ho was this time more of a human being than of the last occasion. I saw him leave liis usual sitting position, as he got up and moved about-. He . inquired about my camera, looked at it and took two snap-shots of me. Afterwards tea was served; then presents were brought to mo of pieces of Tibetan cloth, Chinese golden cloth, at sixty rupees per yard, a pair of silvei'-mounted copper bowls, and a saucer with a lid of silver-gilt. He handed mo himself a Buddhist Bible and a kadahk. Finally, he asked me to inform him of everything which I desired; everything should be arranged. Muliamed Isa received a money present.

One of my richest aud dearest meinoi'ics in all my life is Taslii Lama —this raroarkablo and noble personality.