MOUNT COOK.

Gisborne Times, Volume XIX, Issue 1650, 17 January 1906, Page 2

MOUNT COOK.

UNIQUE CLIMBING FEAT. A notable feat in'olimbing Mount Cook, was accomplished by a party consisting of Messrs Turner (London), T. C. Fyfs, P. Graham, and Malcolm Boss (New Zealanders). A start was made from a high bivouac by moonlight at 11 o'clock on Tuesday. The summit was reached in 13 hours—3 record. At 1 p.m tbe dcsornt on tbe western side to the Hooker Glacier Was commenced, and, owing to adverse conditions, was of a sensational character. The rocks were half-covered with snow, and glazed with enormous icicles. In two extremely dffioult situations, the party wero lowered singly down precipitous faces of icaglazad rook by the Alpine rope.

The decent of this long arete under such adverse conditions was a piece of work almost unique in Alpine olimbing. Mr Turner says that in all his expetiencs he has not'witnessed bo b illiaut a feat. It was made without the slightest slip or accident, though considerable risks were run.

It was not till 7 p.m. on Wednesday that the descent of tbe rocks was safely accomplished. At this point a long couloir anowslope of 2000 ft lookiog down the Hooker glacier was reached. It was found to be in very bad condition, and the party, roped to g-thor, slowly cut steps down the frozen slope. Tho descent took 5 hours. It was accomplished in a bit e ly cold wind, and amid consido-able danger from falling ice and stones that occasionally swept the centre of the couloir. A thousand feet from tho bottom, Mr Turner was struck on the head by a falling splinter of stone, but esoaped serious injury, and was able to continue the descent.

The last part of the climb had to be done in moodight in a freezing wind. Just after midnight on Thursday morning the party set foot on the gentler slopes cl the Hooker Glacier, and tbe first attempt to climb right over the monarch of New Zealand mountains, from the Great Tasman to the Hooker Glacier, had been safely accomplished. The descent of tbe Hooker Glacier was made in the moonlight, and the. party reached tbe Hermitage after a long and arduous journey of 36 hours in all, with ; only brie! halts, and but little food,