TO ENGLAND VIA SAN FRANCISCO.

Evening Star, Issue 2828, 12 March 1872, Page 2

TO ENGLAND VIA SAN FRANCISCO.

(FROM our special correspondent.) On board the Moses Taylor, January 24, 1872. I wrote you last from Honolulu, which port I left after a tiresome delay of eight days, in the Moses Taylor, this morning, at 9 a.m., en route for ban Fiaucisco. There has been a considerable addition to the number of our passengers in every class; the vessel is full of cargo ; in fact the quantity of lading waiting for her was so large, that it has been found necessary to charter a barque to for v aid what could not be taken on board. The delay to which we have been subjected has caused a good deal of grumbling by those passengers to whom time is of importance : others, on the contrary, recall with pleasure the time spent in Honolulu. The latter, it is needless to say, are travelling for pleasure, and wish that our detention had been longer. About au hour after leaving the wharf a stow-a-way was discovered in the person of a Kanaka, who, doubtlci-:, tired of leading au uneventful life, longed for “green fields and pastures new. ” It was not to be, however, as a boat was lowered and the little fellow was sent ashore crying as if to break his heart. It was a distressing sight, but as the penalty for aiding the absconding of any Kanaka, or conniving at or inducing one to abscond from or leave any island in the Kawaiin group, is five hundred dollars, the Captain thought discretion the better part of valor. In fact not a single native—man, woman, or child, can visit any other part of the world without the sanction of the Government. There is another Act in force which has caused some discussion both in England and New Zealand, i allude to the Contagious Diseases Act. Here prostitution is legalised aud licensed: the unfortunates having to present themselves every month to a properly qualified medical practitioner. At half-past nine nightly all abandoned women must leave the streets, and if a stray one is seen after that hour, she is fo:thwith locked up till morning. There are some good buildings at Honolulu —for instance, the Post Office, the Court House, Queen Emma’s Hospital, the bailor’s Home, and numerous wholesale warehouses, which would be a credit to any city in the Colonies. One object is worth seeing by every visitor. Just as to visit Wellington and not see the Hutt is to miss seeing that which is most remarkable, so to visit Honolulu aud not see the “ Tali,” which being interpreted means the “ precipice,” would be to lose a sight such as few have the chance of seeing. During our stay our passengers made up an excursion party to the Pali. After lunch we made a start and travelled along a beautiful road, shaded on each side by tropical trees, which shielded us from the suu by their thickly-leaved manches. Peeping out from among the trees by which they are surrounded, are homes so beautifully situated as to suggest the ide . of each being an Elysium. After travelling about three miles, we suddenly entered a rude jungle and ascended a gentle acclivity by a good road for seven miles, which brought us to the very edge of the Pali. Arrived there, a grand panorama was before us, which fairly dazzled the sight. Below is a vast crater of au extinct volcano, surrounded by high precipitous rocks of lava, ,he bare sight of which causes a thrilling of the nerves. This crater, once pouring forth streams of burning lava, is utilised by growing sugar canes upon its stirface, aud several sugar plantations now stud its area, with here and there the houses of the planters, A bridle track is cut from the top of the precipice through the solid rock to the bottom, borne of our party had the curiosity to commence the descent, but soon returned. I recommend all Colonists coining this way to visit this spot: the scenery will well repay the visit. Monday, 29th. This is our fifth day from Honolulu, and thus far the Moses Taylor has proved a good sea-boat. The weather has been rough, with headwinds. It is strange that, since leaving Dunedin, we have encountered head winds throughout until yesterday, when it changed in our favor, and is now blowing strongly on our quarter. There is nothing striking in our voyage. One day is but a repetition of that which preceded it: water, water, everywhere, nothing to be seen but sea and sky, until night shadows fall. Then, on a clear night, we can trace beautiful constellations in the firmaneut, unseen by us when further south. The days are now short, closing about 6 p.m., and each day is shorter and each night longer as we proceed. As there are about one hundred and fifty passengers on board in addition to our crew, in fine weather our ship presents a very mottled appearance through their being gathered together on its decks people of divers kindreds aud tongues, in their national costumes. We have au American General accompanied by his two daughters, who have been at Honolulu and are now retuurning home. The ladies have been great travellers, and have visited China, Japan, and Europe. They speak French, German, and Italian, and are highly accomplished, but very different in deportment .from the young ladies in Inmedin. Whether or not the habit of travelling has the effect of creating in ladies a spirit of independence, I cannot say. At any rate there is about them a sort of dare devil demeanour, and without prejudice, I must say I prefer the quiet, retiring, unassuming modesty of our New Zealand belles to that of the rollicking audacity of the American travelled

lady, if fairly typified in the General’s daughters. We have several American gentlemen on board, who are quiet, unobtrusive and intelligent : one in particular, who travels with his daughter, and who has seen much of the world. This young lady, too, is an excellent linguist, but in every other respect a striking contrast to the other two. We have also a ical live Yankee, a queer fellow, full of “ wise saws, and modern instances.” There is nothing lie does not know, from lighting the wild Indians to running a railway engine. He is a singular character, and must have had an adventurous life He seems likely to he a very useful companion across the continent, as he says he knows ** every cl irut think between itrisco and New York.” He is going to Hew Vork to be married. He is twenty-three years old only, and has not been home since he left, nine years ago. He is really a representative youth of the chewing and smoking class, with their habits of expectorating, with accompanying queer expletives. Saturday, February 3. The weather is think and. foggy, and we are steaming cautiously. The engines have been stopped several times to take soundings. The captain has not been able to obtain an observation for three clays. He knows that W6 are near the land, and has anchored outside the Bay for the night. At 7pm tne fog dispersed,’ and sure enough we are within three hours’ steaming of our Port. Sunday, February 4. Here we are in San Francisco. After the inspection of luggage by the Customs authories, I, in company with several of our passengers, drove to the Occidental Hotel. Our hotels in Dunedin will bearuo comparison with these colossal stru tures. 1 had often read and heard of American hotels, and certainly their style, cleanliness, and comfort are not over-rated. Whether the habit of families living in such institutions be advantageous or otherwise, I cauuot say ; but so far as my experience of life goes, I should prefer a comfoi table hi e-side at home with a friend, and a chop to sitting kown with live or six hundred people. But then it is the custom here. I walked out in search of a gentleman who was well known in Dunedin and found him we 1 and doing well, with good prospects iu future So far as I could learn, he is looked upon here as a very able man, andii highly appre.ciated. I also met Mr Somuer, lately a builder in Dunedin, Mr Hicbolson, late salesman to Mr Levien, and Mr Morrison, late of the Bank of Otago. All those gentle men are doing well, and, although colonial only in their experience, are quite able to hold their own with their sharp, active, fai - seeing American contemporaries. San Francisco is really a wonderful city. The bustle, the life, the ardor, the enthusiasm in business, almost remind one of Cheapside in London. Not the least amongst its wonders are the buildings; Californian street lor instance, may vie in that respect with any city in Europe. The Merchants’ Exchange is one of the most imposing structures, and in Montgomery street in addition to hotels is the Masonic Temple, one of the first of its kind in tne United states. I would recommend every one travelling this way to visit that building, as, from the interior decorations, someidea may be fovmedjof the influence of this body in San Francisco. Attached to this institution, as to kindred ones, such as Udd Fellows, &c., are savings hanks; each society holding freehold property in the very heart of the City, and thereby deriving large jrents from shops on the street frontage. xne Mails are again behind, there having bsen no communication between New York and this place during the last fortnight. This contretemps is a serious drawback to this otherwise promising line ; but no blame can be attached to Mr Webb for the delay, he has punctually performed his contract. I start to-morrow morning, the 6th February, and am sanguine the roiuc wid be open, as hy a telegram received this afternoon, I learn that the road is now almost free from snow. At any rate 1 will go as far as possible, in order to be prepared to go forward as opportunity offers. Our party have made provision against snow by securing a basket of creature comforts, iu the shape of ham, bread, cheese, a.-id beer, so should any obstructive, snow storm overtake us, we are prepared to 533 it out. I will resume my journal on the overland journey.