EASTERN HEADGEAR

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 33, 9 February 1931, Page 13

EASTERN HEADGEAR

FAMILY INSIGNIA'

The majority of Euglish peoplo had never seeu turbans of such variety and magnificence as those worn by the delegates to the Bound Tabla Conference staying in London recently, says a writer in the "Daily Mail." Indigo, daffodil yellow, deep crimson, shell pink, sky blue, and white headdresses of rich silk', sometimes elaborately embroidered an,d frequently held by priceless, flashing jewels, have brightened pur streets. Bach turban is a miracle of construction, for. in some cases 50 yards of silk, six to eight inches wide, arc coiled round the head. The pagri, which Anglo-Indians have anglicised as "puggaree," can be.of any length from 10 to/ 50 yards, and is bound in innumerable ways. A different type of turban is made from a piece of cloth less than nine yards long, but as wide as 30 inches. This is bound round the head 'to form a narrow angle over the forehead, and is generally white, but never of a vivid hue as the pagri. The Pathans and some of the Punjabi Moslems bind the cloth round a tall conical cap, allowing the ends to hang down over the shoulder. There arc hundreds of variations of these two methods of binding the turban, and each has its own significance. . Indies; aristocratic families have evolved their own styles and kept to them so rigidly that the visitor who has a knowledge of turban customs can recognise tiny man as being a. member of a certain family. Rank, sect, profession, or even the pilgrimages which a .man has taken are denoted by the stylo of turban ho wears. , PICTURESQUE CUSTOMS. ■ The cost of the turban varies according to the length and richness of material. Some, made from liiinn or quite coarse cotton, cost as little as the equivalent of 10s, while several pounds are paid for those of embroidered silk. If the style is a peaked one, stiff silk or cotton is used. Some turbans are too elaborate to be bound, each day on the head, and so are bought "ready made." Such are those worn by the Parsce. They aro bound round a stiff foundation, rising to a peak, and are made in heavy black colth with coloured spots. The Khojas of Bombay wear a headdress of narrow gold ribbon coiled round a foundation. A skull cap is frequently worn under the turban if the style of binding Exposes tho crown of the head. When the turban is heavy a cap is worn in the house, and then tucked into the folds bf the headdress when this is donned. The poorer classes frequently use their turbans as pockets. Indians reverse the European custom of removing the headdress as a mark of respect. When meeting a lady, an officer of higher rank, or going into a house they keep on their turbans. To be asked to remove it is considered an insult. Many picturesque customs are connected with tho turban. The Indian wife, receiving her husband home in tho evening, places his turban in a i>laco of honour, wUilc the- exchange of turbans is a sign of fraternal affection. In Afghanistan the vanquished tribo cast their turbans at the feet of the conqueror, wliilo a chief, appearing before an official of higher rank, will lower tho height of his turban. Tho New Year present given by a master to his servant is most frequently

;i turban. Perhaps he will give also a pair of shoes, or money sufficient to buy :i pair, but' tho master himself chooses the headdress. Just as we wear a buttonhole of flowers on our coats the Indian wears his in his turban. On festive occasions, when flowers are given away to guests, every head carries its floral bouquet.