OUR ANCESTORS' MEALS

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 41, 18 February 1930, Page 15

OUR ANCESTORS' MEALS

AND 'PORPOISE

Domestic -eus toms have- changed rapidly with the centuries. It was only during the fifteenth century that the present custohi ..'of ,placing men and women al ternaU'Ty at a table came into vogue. Befofo this eaehi'ses six? separately, arranged according to 'rank. Still inoro rcceait'.is the practice' of taking four nieaVs' a day; la medieval times-only two wicre 'oaten.. Up to 1800 late dinner was prepared if mid-after-noon, but; gradually this "meal .has become so late that ,it. is now actually supper, if the hour, at which it is.'served is taken into; consideration. These, and other more marked changes in.our customs, are described in-an article on "Meals and Manners in .Bygone Days," by Mr. M. Lawson-Tanered. hi the. Christmas number* of " Chambers's Journal." ■ ; , •

Our ancestors Scorned the use; o£ xorksj and'used tljeir fingers without Compunction. Knives and spoons) how;over,, preceded foriu?; by many years. Before the use of Jjorks became common the first injancuion impressed upon youthful minds ...was. ; to .come to the table With clean, hanris. Children were alsj enjoined not ta pick their teeth with their knives, oc to put1 too much meat on their trenchers at once; they were to be careful, ±00, not to bring dirty knives to the table." In personal cleanliness England was in the van, leading northern Europe. The ambassador, oif Peter the Gretat. at St.- James's was invariably verminous, and Charles XII. of Sweden buttered Ma bread with his Eoyal thumb long after English people had relinquished this engaging curtom.

The diet of bygone ages was varied but remarkable. Among animals and birds which pleased the palate, iv addition to those used to-daiy, were hedgehogs, squirrels, magpies, jackdaws, gulls, swans, peacocks, and many' smaller birds. In the 11th century whale was largely eaten, anil porpoise was considered a delicacy, : The principal dish at a banquet given, by Cardinal ■ Wolsoy in 1508 was a young porpoise which, had cost 6s. However, tho taste for porpoise disappeared, .and the author of "Court and Country*'.in the reign of James L remarks that not even a flog should eat it. As fruits and vegetables many things were. used which would not find favour to-<day. Among them nycre broom, briar hips, walnut buds, violet leaves, strawberry leaves, and tansy. Quinces aaid cinnamon were special favourites, and few recipes, whether for fruit: or savoury, seemed to Tdo twmplete without them. Even flowers such as primroses, cowslips, and violets formed part of salads. Conserves could be made of roses, violets, or gillyflowers, which were beaten to a pulp, and then mixed with sugar. Among the more alluring dishes to be found in old cookery books was a "tart to provoke courage in either man ,or woman." Again, there was "a eonservo of borage flowers, especially good against black choller or melancholic." A taxt of marygoldes, primroses, and cowslips might have an equally salutary effect upon our emotions.

The pay of the soldiers and sailors of ■the IJniled States oE America is higher .than in any other country in the world.