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In the Garden

SEASON OF SPRING

ALL NATURE AWAKENING

PLENTY OF WORK FOR THE

AMATEUR,

"W.R.," Newtown.—^Treatment of winter rhubarb: This plant Is evergreen, and consequently available for usa during the winter months. The chief cause of failure to get good crops is that people will use it durine the summer. Pulling the stalks continually weakens the plants, and results la poor crops during the winter, when It is wanted. The best way to get a stock of winter rhubarb is by means of seed, sowing during October in rows a foot apart. The seedlings are sure to vary considerably, and they should therefere be culled out, retaining the best only, that is, those plants which produce the best stalks in greatest number. When the seedlings are well up, thin to twelve inches apart. Plants which give promise of being worth keeping should not be used —the leaves being left to die down on the plants, until they aro older. These plants, should be marked, and planted Into the permanent bed during late summer or early autumn. AH produce may be pulled from the discarded plants the first year, after which they may be dug out and destroyed. The best of soil is required for rhubarb to get good crops. Stable manure is the best when it can be got, and this may be used in almost unlimited quantities. Palling this, fowl manure is good, provided the land is not too heavy and wet. "W.8.P.," Brooklyn.—The probable cause of the leaves of your calceolarias curling is the aphis, which is the greatest enemy there Is of these plants. The best way to rid the plants of these pests is by fumigating, spraytag with tobacco concentrate is effective up to a point, but it is very difficult to get the solution on to every part. Calceolarias are difficult plants to grow, requiring cool treatment until they come to the flowering stage. Shading is most important, a short period of direct sunshine being sufficient to ruin the plants. Cool, airy conditions and plenty of moisture are important features in the successful cultivation. Fumigation should bo done frequently with some recognised fumigating medium, which may be purchased from any plant dealers. The present season, on the whole, has been favourable for garden operations, and most of the planting should be well in hand, if not finished. The frequent showers and colder conditions during recent ;weeks have caused broken time for out•ide work. Growth is coming away fast on most plants, and weeds are much in. evidence. The checking of weeds before they can seed must be attended to, otheryr'ue much extra labour will result in. future seasons. At this season of the year the Dutch hoe is of little or no use, as the eeedling weeds are not killed so long as moist conditions prevail. This means that in flower beds and among plants set closely together, where there is no room to use the spade, hand weeding must be resorted to. This is a slow, tedious job. Where it is possible to tvfi'n the ground over the burying of the weeds will do good, adding humus to the soil. There is a marked increase in the warmth of the soil, and every part of the ground should be loosened up. to permit of the entry of air and warmth from the sun. Air and .warmth increase the activity of soil bacteria, which play such a large part in the fertility of the soil. Whene -er the soil is in a fit state —that is, when the soil does not stick to the boots when walked on —seed-sewing may be done, but it is a mistake to sow seeds in wet, sticky ground. AH hardy flowers and vegetables may safely be sown outsida now, but nothing is gained by sowing half-hardy and delicate subjects too early.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19260904.2.288

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 57, 4 September 1926, Page 26

Word Count
643

In the Garden Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 57, 4 September 1926, Page 26

In the Garden Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 57, 4 September 1926, Page 26

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