WHEN THE WAR LORD CAME TO JERUSALEM

Dominion, Volume 11, Issue 86, 4 January 1918, Page 3

WHEN THE WAR LORD CAME TO JERUSALEM

' A SERMON IN 1898 A BREEZY STORY OF " HIGH PRESSURE PILGRIMAGE " The "Strand Magazine" of Juno, 191(i, published the following article by Spencer Leigh Hughes, M.P., known in journalism as "Sub Rosa": — It was late in the year 1898 that arrangements were made for mo to be one of a group of special correspond-ents-to visit Palestine and Syria on the occasion of the Kaiser's'trip or tour, which was known as the "High-Pres-sure Pilgrimage." A. few days before I started I heart) with pleasure that my entertaining friend, Mr. Melton Prior, of the "Illustrated Loudon News," was to bo one of the party. He was a very experienced traveller, having been in a dozen campaigns, and on other missions of importance all-over the world, .so I (onsuited him as to what I ought to take with me. He v>as most helpful, and his advico was sound. I remember how ho impressed on me tho wisdom of not taking too much in the way of baggage, saying that some men encumbered themselves with twice the necessary number of things because they feared that some might be lost on the journey. And as to that, I well remember how he stood in Fleet Street aud smote the pavement with his stick, crying aloud that only a fool lost things when travelling. He took great pains to explain particularly what sort of a fool he meant, and he succeeded in making his point quite clear. "I have been all over the world," he. exclaimed, "and I have never lost even a collar—no, nor a stud either."

After I had thanked and congratulated him, we parted, and I agreed to look out for Mm at Brindisi, for I was leaving London a day before he left, as I meant to go to Paris first, and then to travel to Brindisi, whereas la and most of the others meant to go direct from Calais to Brindisi without touching Paris. 1 crossed on a Thursday night, visited, Pars, and then journed on, reaching Brindisi on the Sunday morning. And then in the evening the through train from Calais came in, and I soon saw my friend Melton Prior. I also saw that something was wrong. He ivas annoyednay, he was furious—about something, and I may say that when Melton Prior was vexed he let everyone know all about it, using great plainness of speech. The fact was that he had lest a'l his luggage, except the tilings l.e was wearing, and a little, handbag that he clutched and swung about in a dangerous manner I That night, when all the others dressed for dinner 011 the Isis, poor Pricr was wearing a jacket that was either a blazer or part of his pyjamas. There was little real consolation. in knowing that his smart clothing war, jogging along only forty-eight hours behind him. It was at Haifa, near the foot of Mount Carniel; and not far from Acre, where we were encamped for a week, that at last Prior and his longlost garments were reunited, and Melton was himself again. Much has been said about the careful manner in which this tour had been planned, about the praiseworthy way in which the time-table was kept, and tlio foresight shown in making all tl- 0 necessary arrangements for camping out and for transport. All theso tributes'are well deserved, but when it is further suggested that this shows how superior the Germans are to ourselves in regard to all this sort of thing I demur. The fact is that all theso arrangements had been made and were carried out by-Titos. Cook and Son, as British an institution as the Bank of England. And so it was that the Kai ser, personally conducted by Cook, accompanied' by me—and by some others —journeyed through a land that had been surveyed and mapped out by one who was to be years later one of the chief instruments of his destruction, 110 other, in fact, that Lieutenant 11. 11. Kitchener, the Secretary for War of to-day. It is only natural that cuo or two scenes that I have witnessed in my well-spent career should stand out more vividly than others. 0110 of them is the landing of the Kaiser at Haifa. I believe a I'rench journalist was iesponsible foiPthe rumour spread at the time that His Majesty, when coming ashore, had tried to walk on the water, and, having failed, declared that he did not believe it had evor been done. Nothing of tho sort really happened. Ho landed in the usual way—that is to say, his usual way—amid the firing of guns and the blare of trumpets, surrounded by huge German officers, carefully selected because of their height, and received by Turkish pashas who : seemed to have been chosen because of , 1 their' girth. Haifa made as brave a 1 | show as it could in the way of bunting, and I was amused and surprised to find that among the flags of ail nations that had been found for the occasion was an Isle of Mail Hug showing the well-known design of three le<i,s and the usual Latin motto. Some idea of the size of the procession may be obtained from the' fact that in addition to all the Turkish cavalry Messrs. Cook had eight hundred muleteers, twelvo I hundred horses and mules, and imretyseven carriages, some of tho marvelI lous survivals of a past age. The horses also varied in regard to size, J quality, and action—some holding up thoir heads like giraffes, and others preferring to nose the ground rke bloodhounds on the trail. Of course, there was a band. It did not play "It's a long, long way to Caesarea,' as that inspiring air was not then known, but the bandsmen set to work with almost epileptic l'ury. And then tlie great, unwieldy show moved oif along a rortd almost in dust as line as snuff—'Emperor, Empress, officers, pashas, soldiers, Arab drivers and muleteers', hangers-on, and a most notable group of journalists of many nations, some riding on mules. I remember writing at tlie time: ' Nothing equal to this has been seen oil earth since Noftli cainc out of tlie Aik, or since Banutm entered London." I repeat that one of the scenes that _ I shall never forget is the start or this show as it began to sway and stagger aloii" tho appalling road, sending up a huge cloud of dust that could be seen for miles. And another scene that will never fade from my memory is that of the Kaiser entering Jerusalem at a (l^!ir-ter-past three 011 the afternoon oi Saturday, October 29, 1898. Here, again, my regard for accuracy compels mo to contradict another rumour spread by the me'rrv French journalists, and even described'in print and confirmed by pictures, to tho effect that ills Majesty entered Jersnslom riding on a donkey, while the people strewed palm branches in the way and shouted "Hosanna." It was not like that at all. Ho was mounted 011 a big white, or very light groy, horse, and ho was arrayed in what may he called Crusader costume. A white silk robe stretched from his shoulders over the hindquarters of the horse, and altogether he reminded one of a pantomime edition of Richard the Lion-hearted. U uas not, 'safe for anyone to laugh, as tl is Majesty took himself and the whole affair very seriously—indeed, us general hearing suewsted that he was saving to himself. "I am more than the limit—l am absolutely IT!" One of tlmso who were, looking on was that notable alderman. Sir William 'lieloar. who, though he had not, then been ton Mavor. had seen manv civic shows. I asked him if he could remember any man in tin armour, or indeed anyonci taking part in a Lord Ma.vor s know,

who had ever done it better. Sir William thought not; he was of opinion that the Kaiser had beaten tho lotalways excepting the Lord Mayor's coachman, who is, of course, ~ui generis, and out of tho competition. 1 may add that the Emperor did not outer, as has been said, through the Jaffa gate, as, in order to avoid an awkward corncr the Turks had thoughtfully knocked a great breach m the historic walls of Jerusalem and piepared a special road for him. In order to do this they had demolished about a dozen little shops, and had sent the shopkeepers about their business—supposing that the poor wretches had any business left. 'There is 110 security of tenure and no compensation for disturbances in Jerusalem under tho rule of the gentle Turk. And now for another memorable scene in that old, old city. A day or two later J might have been seen—nay, 1 was seen —arrayed in what is oalled evening dress, walking through the white, dusty, and sun-baked streets of Jerusalem a little before eight in the morning. To march out at that hour dressed as if one were going to the opera at night gives one the appearance of dissipation—but I was going to church. It had been noised abroad that the Kaiser was going to preach a sermon at the dedication of a church, and 1 felt that this was something too good to miss. As Gilbert has put it, "Such an (opportunity might ne'er occur again.'' I have attended many religious services in my time, but this was unique. Nearly all those in the crowded church had to stand in stifling heat for more than an hour before the show arrived, but at last the chief performer and the members of his troupe came in. They were in full uniform, armed to tho teeth, and they goosestepped and cake-walked up'the church, a sight for gods and men —and spccial correspondents. As they came in, the choir, composed of men from the Hohonzollern, and powerful singers, sang this pleasing and appropriate anthem: "llcjoice, daughter of Zion, for behold thy King cometh unto thee." His Majesty accepted this tribute as a very proper attention, and sainted in a very gracious manner. There were three sermons—all long—and I thought once more of Gilbert and those who are condemned

To listen to sermons By mystical Germans Who preach from ten to four. First tame a local German pastor, and one could not blamo the good man for saying all he luiew, as it was his only chance of preaching to his Emperor. When lie had finished one . the Court chaplains did a turn, ajid managed to keep on a little longer than his humbler brother. But then camo the star turn, for the Kaiser rose quickly from a gilded chair, marched up to the altar, turned round, clicked together his 'heels—and then he began to preach as hard as ho could. I was unable to follow His Majesty, as he addressed us in German, but he was evidently telling us all about it, and his discourse sounded like a series of words of command -at a' review. I recognised one word—"allmen" —and as it was the last I was glad to hear it. While the two chaplains had been preaching, the Emperor, sitting in front, had his back to tlie congregation and could not see what was going on, and many of the officers had shown that t.hey were bored, yawning and looking at their watches. There were 110 such displays, however, when the Kaiser was up. Everyone was rigidly at attention, and even the two chaplains looked as if they thought, "Now, this is real preaching." There was only one person there who seemed to be unimpress-ed—-the Empress! She appeared to take it all as a matter of course, as if saying, "Well, well—it's only William. He will do this sort of thing. He often talks like this >at homo." But all the others seemed to hang on tho words of the Imperial preacher. Perhaps I ought to make olio other exception, as near to rue stood a. young Turkish officer, and now and then lie, sighed gently. But lie was quite polite, looking at the people through his glasses in a curious "What have we here?" manner that reminded me of Mr. Balfctir surveying friends and opponents alike in tho House of Commons. At last the long performanco was over. The procession formed up again, and with spurs clinking and sabqes rattling they goose-stepped down the church and out into the not streets again, where the patient Turkish troops had been standing all the time. It was a trying experience, but it was worth enduring, for one does not every day have a chance of hearing an Emperor, and such an Emperor, preach a sermon in a chuvcli, and in Jerusalem. And I ought in fairness to add two extenuating circumstances that afforded some relief. In the first place-tho singing was very good, especially when they sang with immense gusto and effect that great hymn, "Ein feste Burg isfc unser Gott." Everyone joined in except tho young Turkish officer, lvho seemed startlecT, and one ur two of my journalistic colleagues, who were apparently not accustomed to hymn-singing. And then there was/ ab-solutely-110 collection, either during the service or at the door as we went out. Of course, I had to rely on others to learn what the Kaiser's sermon was about, and I was told that it had to do chiefly with the sacredness of discipline and the beauty of obedicnce —favourite themes of his. That being his subject I can testify to the fact that his stylo of delivery was thoroughly in keeping with it. His sentences were rapped out like a series of words of command to troops in the flfeld, or even of orders to a gang of convicts in a prison yard. The whole affair was a rather trying experience, and yet T have, never regretted having gone through it,' thought if I were invited to attend another service of the sort I should not accept the invitation.