THE ARTISTS PARADISE

Dominion, Volume 6, Issue 1843, 1 September 1913, Page 5

THE ARTISTS PARADISE

SCENIC FAIRYLAND. CHARMS OF STEWART ISLAND. Patterson's Inlet, Stewart Island, August 18. Perhaps there is no place in New Zealand so little known as Stewart Island, yet to those who have been steamed in the wonders of tho thermal region of the north, who liavo cncirclcd Mount Egmont, and marvelled at tho snow slopes of liuapehu, have floated down the picturesque Hanganui, and havo even ventured to tho Gates of Paradise, Stewart Island dawns upon the vieiv as something infinitely more beautiful in its range of scenic glories than all other places. This may be known to a few thousand people in Southland, a few. hundred in.Dunedin, and a few dozen in Christchurch, but in the North Island one fears that the attractions of this somewhat remote island are not known, and surely not'appreciated as they should be. Half-Moon Bay is quiet—one can hear a tear-drop. The island has charms innumerable, which havo never been fairly appraised. Tho Government purchased the island from its Native owners away back in the early' sixtios for a paltry £GOOO, half of which sum only was paid to them, and two-thirds of that half went to two men, John Taiaroa and John Topi., Tho Government, with profound foresight, retained half tho purchase money for roads, bridges, hospital, and charitable aid funds, and what not. Finally, only £1000 was paid out to tho people, which, with £1000 lor Taiaroa and a similar sum for Topi, cut out'tlic £8000 paid.for Stewart Island —paid for an earthly paradise, if ever there was one. Of course, reserves were provided for the Natives, and they were given tho sole mutton-birdiiig rights over the Mutton Birds Islands, which latter consideration has proved the mobt valuable of all. But Natives were never very numerous in these latitudes, and the number of full-blooded Natives hereabouts could bo counted on tho fingers of 0110 ha-nd, and then thero would be Singers to spare. Thero are half-castes (a few), quarter-castes, and threequarter 'whites a-many, and theso all have some sort of claim 011 theso roscrves which are but seldom exercised, and but rarely inquired into. There is no monotony in the aspect of Stewart Island's verdant mantle as thero is in the north. Tho greens aro more vivid and more varied, and consequently thorc is a greater variation and far more degrees of colour be-, twoen tho ■ extreme high and low lights.. A bush-grown islet in a Stewart Island inlet lit by the sun resembles nothing more than a tastefully-arranged bouquet, more elegantly displayed and artistically conserved (though severely restricted as to colours) than anytliing which could be humanly by any expert. And thero aro hundreds of theso islets.

Tho chief settlement, Half-moon Bay, is only two hours' steam by tug (s.s. Theresa Ward) from tho Bluff, and as ouo passes between the horns of the crescent, one is at once -struck by tho.abundant picturesquenoss of overy nook and corner. As usual every prospect pleases and only man is vile. In the position at tho head of tlje little wharf, wliero one would ordinarily, see the office of the Harbour Board or somo authority, however -small, is, of all things, a butcher's shop, and further round the road aro tiny stores, which wero probably planted thero in the brave old whaling days. Exactly in.the centre of tho bay is the littlo post offico, from which Mr. (now Sir) Ernest Shackleton dispatched tho news to the world that ho had not succosdod in winning tho Pole. There are two or three boardinghouses (plain and decent), and a number of .little cottages dotted among the native bush on either side of the bay, all of which find tenants during the summer months. But Half-moon Bay is only the gateway to tho glories of tho island. Half-

ail-hour's easy walk over an easy saddle conducts one to fairy-land. Pattersou's Inlet—an enormous spaeo of landlocked water, which the eyo at no 0110 spot can take in. And tho Inlet has a thousand smaller inlets, hundreds of. them dreams of beauty, with fair golden sands, and tho most beautiful scenic bush New Zealand can boast shading tho strand. Paths that have been cut in tho side of tho hill through the virgin busli at a varying height, .-and from such a point of vantage enchantment walks with you all tho way. Through tho lace-like foliage vistas of silvern waters dotted with fairy-liko islands meet tho eye refreshingly. Golden Bay is quite faithfully named; Tliulo is ab solutely picturesque, and the Islo of Ulva (where is situated tho southernmost post offico in the world, so it is said) is ail enchanted land, and Glory Harbour and Littlo Glory away 011 tho other side offers great temptations to one to turn one's back on the city and its shoddy ways and livjs tho simple life for tho rest- of our days. There is the nativo fuchsia tree, lour yards away, a pert tui, not in the least disturbed by our approach, enthusiastically pulsates its "parson's tio" as it pipes and chortles to its mato. And there a littlo stream rushes headlong down the hill leaving little pools hero and there, where tho stag at eve may drink his fill unmolested, for here all is sanctuary.