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SOOTH SEA ISLANDS.

AS THEY ARE TO-DAY

IMPRESSIONS OF A RECENT TRIP

FIJI AND SAMOA,

UNDER TWO FLAGS: BRITISH AND

GERMAN

[Br "Wasdkrer."] [The first part, of this article appeared in last Saturday's issuo of The Dominion-.] The Tofna dropped anclior off Haapni. another island of the Tongan group, early, in (ho morning of April 30. Barges loaded with copra at once began to put out from Hid shore, towed by oil launches, and the work of loading and unloading cargo continued throughout tho day.

After breakfast the passengers were taken ashore in the 6hip's oil launch to have a look round the island, which can be crossed froni sea to sea in half an hour. The visit was very interesting, but in some respects depressing, for on every hand was to bo seen tho disastrous effects of the terrific hurricane which passed over' tho island in tho early, part of the year —houses damaged or ruimyl, unroofed churches, trees battered and bent and denuded of fruit, and boats piled up on the shore, including a good-sized brig. The storm has done great havoc among tho coconut trees, from which it is 6aid they will lako four or fivo years to ie-

cover. . This is, of course, a very serious matter to the natives, as they depend almost entirely upon the copra trade for their ready-money. They will soon begin to feel tho effects, as their stock of copra is now almost exhausted, and it must take some time before tho trees aro in full bearing again. Vivid human scenes were being enacted at tho steamer's side all day. Native families were coming and going with all their miscellaneous belongings, and with' continuous shouting and gesticulation. It was very interesting to watch tho dexterity with which tho natives took the timber ashore in the form of a raft, which they gradually built up as tho planks wero lowered from tho ship. Tho run from Haapai to Vavau was not a long one, for the steamer, leaving Haapai at G a.m. on, May 1, berthed at Neiafu, tho prinoip.il town of the island, shortly after mid-day. If Nukualofa was deeply interesting from a human point ot view—giving; us our first view of tho Tongan people and their manners and customs—Vavau delighted us by its wonderful scenery. Tho harbour is extremely beautiful, and tho hills and bays; native townships and plantations, sea-scoured caves and bold headlands, made tho trip up the winding waterway, an experience to be remei/ibercd.

A FAMOUS CAVE. Soon after reaching tho wharf at Neiafu, tho principal town of Vavau, a largo party from tho steamer started off' for the famous Swallows' Cave, to which wo were conveyed in two of the ship's boats. After a pleasant little trip down tho harbour, wo reached the queer-shaped opening of tho cave, and both boats sailed right in, to tho evident alarm of the fluttering birds and tho little coloured fish which could bo seen with surprising plainness in tho clear blue water. No description can do justice to the beauty of tho interior of tho cave—a cathedral built by Nature. The ceiling in parts looked almost artificial in its smoothness. Tho walls were coloured like the rainbow, starting with a bright, reddish tint, where they were lapped by the waves. The cave had been painted by Nature in her own colours, 'her own time, and her own way. Time is no object to her. She neither hastens nor tarries, for she' i« not hampered by tho feverish hasto of man, who knows his timo is short. At tho far end of the great cave with its watery floor is a smaller cave, to which tho waves cannot reach except in rough weather, and through the roof the light of day can bo seen. One of the native boatmen climbed up into tho inner cave, whero ho caughtn. largo water snake, several feet long. Wo wore at first disinclined to take the black and whito reptile into the boats, but on being assured that it was quito harmless we consented to examine it at closer , quarter;,. By the timo we were in the open water again, even the ladies caressed the captive, and two of them had their photographs taken with the snake twined around "their arms.

After coining back to town we spent a few pleasant hours seeing the sights of tho place nnd talking to the people. As in Nukualofa, the family pig was to be seen everywhere. On one verandah sat a woman nursing her baby, and alongsido ivas another woman with a little pig in her arms. It was a quaint sight to British eyes. Oranges and coconuts were growing on every side, and could bo had for tho picking, nnd women making intivo matting and other interesting glimpses of the life of the people could be seen as one walked through tho outskirts of the town. From a hill overlooking tho town a magnificent view of the harbour was obtained. AMONG THE SAMOANS. Tho Tofua left Vavau at 1 p.m. on May 2, and arrived at Apia (Samoa) on

(lift following day nt -i p-.i.n. thry Mi' vnl sccuiod to causo it ; 4' Li i-'l I' , ' lo '■ town. 'J'ho ttcamei- liii.d [w (Ugi) anchor : well out iu tho bay, uiii! it was u .most interesting sight to tee i;lio. Kainortn lirtiitmen shooting out from- -tlio shore- lii.tlieii: littlo craft. 'J'hey pl.ustfifflci v.ou'nd llio. . sltip in scores, all eager , .-to , ca'fr.y iia;=sen.gors to tho town. Thisi 'J.ivply .scerip , (-'i.viis-'' ed one of the passengers, to. penietratß ih.o.' following verse:— Samoan boatmen push: aiid Fhoiit To earn an honcet '"brpwii"; In little boats they dart a'Jroifl. 'Twixt ship and Apia Town. To como down from- tlio heights., of poetry to plain prose it fe ij.cC.ejiia'y to ey- , plain that'tlio exact viyui.lv fixe.d. by ,, tho German authorities , w.iis tive.lvc "lion- , est browns" each way; , ; Ijili; si), keqn was tho competition that iou\\< .of fho. btiat-. . mon, in order to seenro , . .p.-vtroiiiigc., efferpd. a native fan or baskpt to eiioli of tteir., customers. With coinnien.dali'jp qaiitioiiy' however, these, gifts werofapt , tack iiistjf tho return voyage, in order tlmt. the. giver.; might secure the patrpjiago : ot the.- saiiife- , - people for the trip back to tl|<s steainpr.;,.. In spite of the cagernpss.-of tho. : b6atm.en to seenro passengers, nothing, 'in , .tho iia- ■ tuvo of roughness or {lisorder w.i\s w.it-- [ nesse'd. A Samoan polic.emaiijiv liiVi.fonn , . stood on tho gangway .to , , .regiilafe fc.aihC: and generally keep aii.ey.o on things, bufe tho natives are natuilai.ly 'so ple;asaut,. jiolite, and obliging th'at tlife. .ni.o.st , 'iif'i-.' table could find no jnst caiige .!b,r .gruin'r bling. .........

A GRIM SKELfTPN. On our war to tlie shore., we passed ihegrim, iron skeleton of the, wr]eij;ed Gerr , man warship Adler, ai'.'-safl-.. ffiihiiidpic:' of that calamitous day in.Marehv.iSSJ, w-heii; , a great storm drove thi;.e«!;/fie,nhaii.. aiia , three United States men-p'J.-JVsr • asiiore;

abput 50 Ampricans and O&GeTOansibpirip: drowned. Every British^cnrfe- >-thrill<sd;' with the thought that.^S;|;, '' '■' ■ The British ship Oaliiopp'r*A '"■"■■ Paced.that raging ga1e,;',".,,';.-.-- ■ .■: And steamed her way:. : tq'-opcn,:Bea. It is a stirring tale! : '}f>'-,™};*' ,; -.; r " s - ' 'Twas on New Zeala'Kd!s.farap,us: ; 'cpil,-'■' - Her engine fires And pn tliat ehip each living'soul- , '■• ■ '■ . Proved ho was British bred; : :^; v i">'\ The moral—clear as-'shlningßtarsr-'ivV Jley as well be stated :■'.-; ".V.-;* , :-IS .'■' Kew Zealand coal and Britishi.tars :■:,'■, Fear no foo when ■'■ '■' UNDER GERMAN? [ More attention scfms : ; to; .;bc/p_ai(lj-.a.t. Apia to sanitary matters ■.}.han : .;-iir;sthe. towns of the Tongan .group, ;;and : ','.the' household pig is less in.cvidencc'S-Tlus'isisr no doubt ono of fho resultgiof'■Gernian i rule. Stainoan native houses arp alsojtlijE; forent from those of TonsaV -Theys/cpnV, sisfc nlerely of a roof supported.bri 'ibimd-J ed uprights..: Unliko- the 'l'qngan - biiildings, thpy have no wallsi but. the natiye , workmanship put into tho epilings. some cases, .very iino. indend,' and ijv.eU; worth close inspection. . AVo speuti'-.t'hq' latter part of the ■ afternoon' and'<,:eyp.i!iiig, looking around the,town, and- : af|ersreak?; fasE the next; morningi;wo:J"set;'::outv v (6/

explore the rest of thc : .island,' .as. far as time woiil.l permit.-; , ' J),iffcr«nfc.;pai-ti(!'g went iu different directji)ns> a.iul 'on. :cojn.i paring notes on returning;' leaVili. Ifarj-'y stoutly maintained that;" was the most charming. ''jVs., a liiaftjr of fact, wherever one Kvpnt.in tjie-icpufc try, the iloivers, fiMiits,'..-VpVnniVx tiuns,', asi.d. scenery—everything" to' : te s&n:.. w?>s- de-. ligihtfiil. The colours oit-;every JisVikI Xy&iis wonderful, and Pxelalnati6lfe^ ; pf : ;p'ea.sjii•e: sunn used up all tiio ;ai)i)i:oj)n«V!« , - tives in the English langui!ge,.and wo \y.bi:e: eventually forced to W; eoiiteiit Iβ- -jSng the changes between: ".Tsji't/it;ljea.iiji.i.fiii. : !'-' "Isn't it really wonderftir.'" It, .\v.a,s tropical vegetation in ■a!r--its:fVar i ietv -anilabundance. What '£110, waterfalls, the .the'.Y.ill.hge.s , ,- Stevenson's liouso andl.jtoinb, :ahd tii-?

MitlJii" ivtk. Were nil vWital, ii wasa siiVy,. the inii.v Uilyi'is-o. iiiftloh a. triipiwrt ;f ii .iniiljhiV; Uur Taix« party hi Wnltc. ii fiiif' day of il'i took v, itlHJicmi ;vi.i eSfcoUfcirt lirnciiroli ■kiliilly. jsruridwl hx '■■Hid ctat stMviml, hireij -fi-Vi-. SiviVioitii frivps-. n?iid ski rial oil: Jet the islitl'iiiji: rook itt ildflWMaro, It i<; .iv jiiiMMilili Vet:!;; .sojue 20ft. high, ■over •.niie.li ft lai-Rp. .sliv.am, pf wa-tor drops iiiiii it ilenp pujil Ijoncaiii. fWtr flii.s :ri)d; ■tiiji .rtjorii (Ittriiig ones, ftielmlmi:!; hm of t'w ilaijiosi si ill over mtii flic .piml witlt

a. uig -splash, while .somp .of the J<?<ss SfiyeiiVuiioi.is sviiro content w-i'Ui ;i ■uOii't sw.ilu ■in ths stroma ijcloM-.. StEV€ ; N.SQN :i :S H'PtrE, ' Tljciij aitOp ft most ojijoyaljta luivcli ijii■■dpi,, .the- freos, we. niofiiltiid tlip baps once' isipi-fi. and drova Oil ■Iβ Stpwrns-onVMiiiise., svliich. was biM'ii.p; paiutesl and lTimvatpd ■hi lyjctinio till! Vciiufiiise , ■?' t-Jw! Bei-mnii-■Ciovi'rnpy. It had evidently been scrni.p■wlrafc neglected, iii.n.t the. gavdeh !)aii(y : -ii.etVfictt atteniiqiH The hflilfo ■ has -bSpii riitorctl sim* H.teycii r .aU:'-s 'time, but in its . Drain 'feature's ■it rpiitrtjnv the faint. Fiojn. tlie- verandah. ii .mligmfoent viiiw- c'aji bo oijtajftpd % iijio .slr:oicli of eo'iurfj'y, ineludiiig -S- : ■■lifelfttiil .gJliifiiSp: of the f-ca, in the'- dfe : taiice; On -tli.? liilL liot very far' ■frwrv Hip licuSe- k gtej-e.n'sou'.S ipnibV -bear tog. tilis ifd'Howing- wrifip.il by -Mhisdf v^

: Uiiaef/tiie wide.aiidSi.ai;!:;,- sky ■■pig'yc : (he grave, aiul- lot me- lie',. ■ : Giai il.ifV 1 'flip, And gij(l!y, iljo, . Aiid-1 laid hie (Town: -.villi ; ai. ivili;, ; : Tlic.=p li(j-. the w.of.do ilrat -ye ..gra've. for me.; ; Here :ho lies. \yhqi:q Iμ; lpugpi' to. be.; ■Übine. 'is. the sailoi;, lignie .fraia jea:, , :'.":.! ■.■.And.. ; .the; lumter lxpiiiq- 'from', 'the Kill-. -. '4 iiidii;,.,jVi ■S ; 'a';in;-xjn' ■ il.a'jft/S:' wa. saiil: *-. riW.f.Wl '■gp.pil-lj,v.e i to j'ApTa-.'asii- 'Sailed; Jatf ay 'to -oiir- :next .ppi-t -of Aj;iji,t ■ M;sj:L,.p'Ei..iy.f r^;.,; i; iThp:p<)iufeiif speci;al;iii'ljpre=t.on(i;l!p.;iqiir.lipy?'frqhv IVpjrt; $q' LpviiJiaV.-jsillii; iiittlo. :aiul:iliis pi;ec;i.ai'.;iisto>. ■■est; contrps rijuild Uiei';p.riniif:ivcV;miiii:lySflrlyice:lJeLw«iv';(li£f stfenior , an'd-.■ th'ci,;isialid.. -i'he'island-Is civciiiar'- ■iiV'-.shape,.-;and..c.o.ii- ! silsts ;of ; '])i.lly; -coinitry .i'm topj* Tfp';(iOOi-ftet ■"a; : ci-atraV.wliicl{' ! :is sa.fd , , ; to;;l;iiye\(iiiacle^ijs, 'iiipppajaiicoal'uci'iig-.-tV'.'.yoViu'iiii distui-baucci iiri' j.BS(i..- 3't.- is ;:nih'abjtpil Sy being.'lotily. ,al)put;luilf ■ ! ;n:,:ddzph^wh.itc;,p.fbpit'-. pn the'iSlaifd. . : i\}teiu iibpyjt' .■.tiifceTtjijartpi's pf.ii'. iiiile..'fr.bii): the; Jittlo. ;;unyh,',aiiij; . : iu ; eicji.tly hoisds ive;r!i ! ' sceni.liplibiiig aip ■''l^vflHiiertVp^^^^ 'aiid-wiipji^lhey: i.h;|t . v -.a'- fjag'-'oii-.. Hit- q'iul of', .a'-.-st'ick: , :. . This'- li'jg. ;proyed' ? tpi;b'a. ji. pa'reet ftersrfrohv'fiii; ; A\'hon<v)ihp. .niiyil-carrierireaclied, I:iic> ; -vpssel ;buckeh,jKaHflpiyered-o!i;!i,.i;oro/tpJ-eceiyB-■■■'the.V'm.ail; J)u^tithe •'lijedvswjhiinei-.'. in;.',:llin ■ .wobbly 1 ' spai.-jiij rßsrd^thp , ; ■■fell ■iii^;tli^v^|ilpiv ; ,:>'Tt;j\\";si'npt; : lpstj;So\i:-. icfv.ci-,- I'nj"!i-Ifpi-'-iislfQi!-- ; ittjva'si.fillq [I v ip.vi"! icti "bnYJiqanl;/iijl^li.ei-c;*j).iili'

i;aflip.r-damp. Th;e- : m.fi.il mat.tpf for , the'-is-lan-cler's.. h.ail previously ; be'Mt sea'ldc'i. up- in. a kprcsenp'' fin-, whipli- 'Was'. .i.i<m? thfWit ■ mio: tlie'-:se.a, (ogdtlujrmyjtn .a -b.ox- of ifleat, ; :aii;d: Ei.fic.i- ajj eircftii^aguig , cheer- f.rbiivthe ..iwss.p.ngphs; tlic itqiia.ticniai'lniaii- inaile.'ToY fllbme-onpe h.i6f« with Uib tin. amr : 'flig'.ho.x lit tow. Fill AND THE FIJIANS:. Leyukit. vkis raaclifl! at 2 pM\. on Jfay ' V, iflo'ii'-j-Jlp «;at& ■,t.rp'Mi'.a.t."thp foot pf a .r'aiyjje. o,f fiVntastii;-■a.lJHiiiped.'-gi-pQirjiilJii. y.uj! stay Hero. .-cmiy- lasted. :a few lioxjifs. Jiuf We ' founds plentj"-*(>■ interest us-in a'ljd aiffuiid -tisp■town, HeVe we. *aw Hie -Ffj-ians for'' ?■]«>■ : 'fiisst Mine. h\ tlieir oivii country., frftzly/lifadpd people are- :in iiiasry M-

f Sjiccfs .'it vciT iffn'c -raccv JFji'py■ arc said- tii I. Tih yc'ty liiipny. hud J.ißiit-.lip.ai.'lcil;. anct I (l.iiiok , lo M.fe fJ'iO , .fijTury siijo (ii' things. ?>'u pno lViitiv.'s brltcii- hoVv id .fep't eiij.by,. .liipjiii hut ol" ■.li.i'p tfjivii- ■ TliP/ Fiji .man 'w.ifli-'.ihbpjiy 'head, ■ ..Vh.cl F.milo th.at secins 'tqjE.aj:; ... '■"Yhu.'.l! l)i) :ij Tiiigii.ty ib.n'R ...tiuio ■ dgiid::. . W'b .=au- ftdnJeflfiUgVoli i-Uo Chinjniaii ih Piirijoil, Jind novT liv I.nviilia )sf> \Viftoullcli inyro .ii! eviiJc.ncS'i insit llio. llincjoi),. too , . ,1

Tho buildings -nut" alhnost ioy'Ui'g.iy pf Eiiro--pt'aii tiKVkp-, only .(i- lb<v native-built houses .

A.t -SviO- p-..m, tj.io st-i-ajnor, Ic-Ft far '.Suva, the capital »f -the Jj'iji iiliYiufe/audSir'nyed ■there fljt If oftkje'k the- siiinp iifehfj, ■ .Siiva at nijjlit as wen. from- :IJu« ■.vlii.p jvas a sight 10. be i-(?n.ieiitb.pii'(.!, t'hir stay,'ho'.w'pvp.r-, Jvrtsflii ; top, s!],(H\!; f tot AW ftiaiie tJi-d-, ' vejejiInost of. l:hc- time at ofir tlispo>Vi'J ; .. AiU'i: a l.oolv oi;o-.!ij.:l i'lfc. 'Jtf-.tiii ■aiVti-. so6 rini- ife liiaiiy. plat'.'.s..of' iji.trvcstv Spmq.'oi;' (i;s ifiryil n fciiili'a.iid Ift.iii; ii.iirlvi? o.i'if lii'td HiV: p :jyn* liiost oiijOMaijle, aiut Save suijre ii!Vir.6| (ho jnif'iitiil- &pii(flips."gf' flu" pta.ee., "i'tup-i'ds vvpiie lipsutj'fiil iiEiißlisk liflijiis,. >.jii;i:oini.il(>i! ;!iy (.rb|>i.c:a.l gardens; as. welt -Us wiiiiSpi;/ '. '. '■■

ijuvil , grrift :i)f rcqfflf Stars, aiul as fa'Ss :iv ljiifrp; jjis-■■i-.f'iljiiti.iijr cpfifvi?: ...Hs.-siiiiijiiiip Inisiiiess is..liitiTa:sfn™; -rifiiidly. ii.!i(l Sfc'iS .npSv^tlie , t-iid-Ji ni,»-i)l,i(fe of :HM:prut ; .jVi(i)prtaiii; iiiipj p;f s(.('.;iiiici:s: rijipiiiig : Behvp.pij Aipfei-ic'aii-,- Atfs-ifali-iilr,. ifiicl pit siipyr ;md coj).i;a. i:iidii.sl rips'ljriii;;; :a gredb :(li?iil of. triidt! to- i.lic iivcrPijsi.ng ti\ ijintr.iii't.uci'--..". .';"■■'

.; ;Kiii -.ca.ii.lieveiv.fe.■'vvliat a'Kliifp-: ■10it-n.'s couiitryv bji.t ;iiiqst KiiVyiicaiisJcan. ■ i nmiuUinj. tiVi-Jr- .iipdtli;-. iii«l sli-ciij-tft -if Hicy niiiKtii''jijbdg'yatigii: iiif-.alf-.thihgs" ■ IJiPiv jnAtlft-r-mDilpi-iiti! sydrlc , .aiiiV 'iii-..'. I'i-iiy, iiy. jlriiikiiiff; -..Atriny' toJ.i' , ,. this, js ;llic \pii.iiiiiiii- of , ;3ias" ■tri.p'il sjf.; Tim -co'sT?',ot! J.iviii'K;. iioSvcyijiy.!is : said-, fti.. ; li;a- -yo'i'.y.- .high- liiid as;, ■■rcgai-ds- . gOYOTiiiienVj -])my.ning. i'S'treel;'''. , -: fpcijis fq, iiffi; Hsu c'hiof x'oijiplaiViti'.-Vriiciio-i os. (ij Jc'flmjji■ inctirod ofvggycnVnß'nt:cain'irt>ljc ; rrj;ai-(ic.d--as jiPyiiiviitiif, ';ivnd; ''.■tlia't ;;tIK 'liltiiijafe.! iniiili(»ii..9f^hp:ili.Hicidt:f'%il!'l)(j;a'i , c(i(ii ; '■.'tio.h--,of ffll tlib'.i/nt.isli"i)osscssiqns:'in:-tlio-:| : l.'aei.iic, ■iv'ijEli'4'lie .p,\cei)lipii'pf-'-Hhoso -af'i ; jtfeseiti; iijiijexcd 1 ■IW i: :AA!fe!ra!ia.,. ; a!id : ; : Nß\v:::j ■ /pjiiihi'dv . ■Jju'-y.V- '■)»?giild"'!ji((.-,;l-lie'",:nal:nraf-'iic.adjiiVin'iPp::of.l;]i«;fpderafioii; ani^somy ■fo : i:m. gf-.i-pjir.p.-ciiita.Ci.yo : scv.pru.ii : i.cnt,Si;duld:: ■of cgursp ;lijijvß: ip-:l;p,:scj;-iip.y ■■;, V^... ' ...Itfji h iirtiii,-ixm.', AnKfi.cji.ii ili.WPsp-.-bf'.Hfujyiiosin',' :iilsa"Vof. a. lioniaii tVtltolic;'.l}isliopj.!t)iidsv;!l6urisli» 'Mg. - :vyjiyijiu!Vvylip; ; hiis-' Pl' ; S iP-sec; -imd ijuKu-ic;nt'-iiiteresfc.iii/?:]iis-fcilpsy, ■iiipu Jfo. .\s-aiilMtoisbp,4c'aii!iqi;Si'a'il? to- l;o siiviicfc-l>y -llip:- spjpmlid- v worfc...i!Y..i ;tk6- Cifusp ■l.ijf!).. btcit-.-ilpiio%ljyV : -l.]i(j"(i;hnUiaiv;misv ifipiiiirips ■!n , I'-iji;. J slaiiits;:- '!i!iici :inissfqiitiViesVtliqmpelyes?'■ ; wxmid'jifi ..this Jiiibt to iiliiu'b -tha'tVimiclr , vTC'ii'ta'iifsVtu lio'doni?..:! , !!- !tlie]. : H;ojy.ot : ':.)j,m{cl l T. , moral' 'charaefer;. of;, tli'osbrpoo> : : -;iii6cli.iiipi , !g,4i.iii.i.t'.'jiiil£'''avCpijWu ■<ol( thc'iu .sayagpi Itvjtppk;. ~ ?:'ceiifurjc^''-V;fe;'.'-iclutnß^' ,, . ,, qu!; ,: \ ..jV'iijr!brSfixLvii!!' .;fojcefatliets''■-.'..fi'oiif'-'^tli'quv-JlipntlisMi; "jyayla'^'iii.tp;:. 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Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/DOM19120615.2.83

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1467, 15 June 1912, Page 9

Word count
Tapeke kupu
2,907

SOOTH SEA ISLANDS. Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1467, 15 June 1912, Page 9

SOOTH SEA ISLANDS. Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1467, 15 June 1912, Page 9

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