VAILIMA TO-DAY,.

Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1467, 15 June 1912, Page 9

VAILIMA TO-DAY,.

An admirer of Robert Louis Stevenson, ih thb person of. Miss Laura Stubbs, an Englishwoman, has.(ravelled all tho way from England to Samoa to visit his grave. VI, a lover of the man," she writes, "personally unknown to me save through tho potency of his pen, journeyed across the world in order to visit his grave, and to get-into direct touch with his surroundings." In a littlo book entitled "Stevenson's Shrine: The Record of a Pilgrimage," Miss Stubbs gives an interesting account of her- journey. On her arrival at Vailima' "not a soul was visible, tho placo was .bathed in sunshine, and 'steeped in silentiiess' not even a dog parked at our approach. The crotons, dracaenas, and other plants'of brilliant foliage made patches;.of vivid colour -on tho well-kept lawns, and everywhere was'the sceiit oi orange-blossom, gardenia, and frangipani." All Stevenson's furniture- has gone from the house,; "but ■the window was there— the window below which he lay on tho low settle and breathed his last."

Miss Stubbs and her companions addressed themselves to a Samoan woman, first in English and then in German, but it was all to no purpose. Next they resorted to signs. "Pointing to the moun-tain-tup, I said, 'Tusitala.' The word acted as a talisman, (he brown face wreathed itself in smile.", the dark'eyes kindled into comprehension." The woman fetched a little n'ative maiden, who acted as tho guide of the visitors, and led them to the grave. The monument there Miss Stubbs describes as "not an ideal structure by any manner of means, not even beautiful, and yet in its massive ruggednnss it somehow suited (ho man. and the place." Tho broad stone was strewn with faded wreaths and flowers. The chiefs have, it seems, tabooed the use of firearms or other weapons on Mount Vcea, in order that the birds may live there undisturbed and unafraid and build their nests in (ho tress round Tusitala's grave. Vailiina, according to Miss Slubbj, is not much changed since the days when

"R. li. S." lived there. She met a photographer friend of Stevenson's, who told her of his first moeting and friendship with the novelist: "1 said I was not strong, and had conic to the island on account of my health. 'Well, tlien, , replied Stevenson, 'it shall be my business to help you (o Ret well; come'to Vailiina whenever you like, and if I am out, ask for refreshment, and wait till I come in; you will always find a welcome there.' At this point my informant turned away, and there was a break in his voice, as v he exclaimed: 'Ah, the years go on, and I don't miss him less but more; next to my mother, he was the best friend I ever had; n man with .1 heart of gold; his house was a second home to me.'"

To a query whether he liked Stevenson's works, the photographer made reply, "Yes!" (this very dubiously), "I like them, but he was worth all his books put together. People who don't know him like liim for his books. _ I like him for himself, and I often wish I liked his books better."

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